|
|---|
|
|
|---|
First you need to decide what style it is going to be:
1
Once you have decided on the style, fold your material in
half to the desired length, then fold it in half selvage to selvage.
(A selvage is the finished edge of the fabric.) Measure your
torso and find the largest measurement, either your hips or your
chest, and divide by four. As your material is already divided
into quarters, you only need one quarter of the total measurement.
This is the minimum width your tunic must be from the centre
fold if you want it to fit.
2
Draw your pattern onto the material. Note: If you do not
have splits in your tunic cut more flare in your pattern so you
can move without tearing the fabric. Cut out the pattern and
also cut a small hole for the neck. If you are adding extra length
to your sleeves cut that out now from the extra fabric you bought!
3
Decide on the shape of your neckline and cut this out. (Note:
Opening must be big enough to fit over your head! Measure around
your head remembering that your ears stick out more than your
forehead!! Keyhole necklines can be cut smaller as the split
allows extra room.) Always cut out less rather than more.
4
Once the neck hole is cut, open up the tunic and lay it out
flat, then take a piece of scrap material (which can be of a different
colour) that is slightly larger than the neck shape (at least
2" all around). This will become your neck facing. Lay
the facing fabric over the neck hole with right sides together
and pin it down. (At this point I find it helps to draw the neck
line shape on the facing so it will be neater when you sew.)
5
Sew around the neckline. Lay the tunic out flat again and
cut out the material in the middle of the neck hole about 1cm
away from the stitching leaving an even seam. Remember to clip
any right angles and curves as this lets the material sit properly
when turned the right way.
6
Neaten up the facing edge and finish the outer edge (zig-zag
or overlock will do) and turn the facing to the inside of the
tunic. Iron the facing flat then pin down and sew around again.
This keeps the facing in place.
7
If you are adding extra length to the sleeves, sew the additional
piece onto the end of the tunic sleeve. Add any decorations or
braid to the sleeves and neck now, taking care to match the ends
at the seams. If the sleeves are going to be tight hem them now,
if you are having loose sleeves, leave the hemming until last.
8
If the tunic has no splits, pin the side seams with the right
sides together and sew them up. Hem the sleeves (if not already
done) and the bottom edge and your tunic is finished.
9
If your tunic is to have side splits, pin the side seams together
to where you want the splits to start. Sew the seams up to this
point, then hem the side splits, the bottom and the sleeves.
10
If you want front and back splits it will take a bit longer.
Before sewing up the side seams, put on the tunic and get someone
to cut the front split as high as you want it. Lay out the tunic
and cut the back seam to the same length. To make facings for
the split get 2 pieces of fabric which are slightly longer than
the split and about 3" wide. Keeping the split together,
centre the facing over the split and pin it to your tunic. Sew
around the split cut, remove the pins and cut the facing up the
split line. Finish the outer edges of the facing (overlock or
zig-zag stitch), and turn to the inside of the tunic. If you
have sewn a square around the top of the slit, you will need to
clip the seam before turning it (refer to figure at point 5 above).
Iron flat, pin down and sew around to hold in place. Sew up
the side seams and the bottom edge then decorate the hem line
if you wish.
Pants can range from hugely baggy through to stovepipes and everything in between. Decide what type of pants you want.
1
Get your material and fold it lengthways slightly longer than
the desired pants length, then fold it selvage to selvage and
lay it out on a flat surface.
2
Get a tape measure and measure from the front waistband of
the trousers you are wearing to the back waistband putting the
tape measure between your legs. Don't hold the measure too tight!
Try sitting down with the tape measure between your legs to check
the groin curve. This measurement will stop you making your pants
too tight in the crotch (you need room for movement). From the
centre fold in the fabric, measure inwards about 7cm and then
measure down half your groin measurement adding a curve back towards
the centreline.
3
If you only want slightly baggy pants measure around your
waist and add a little extra for seams and movement (about 3 -
4 inches if you are doing ½ inch seams; this allows 2 inches
ease). Divide your adjusted waist measurement by 4 and measure
this distance from the groin line at the waist and mark. If you
want a tapered leg draw an angled line from the end of the groin
curve to the bottom of the pants, and a line from the waist mark
to the hem line leaving enough between the two so your leg will
fit. (This measurement should be slightly bigger than half your
leg size.)
If you want baggy pants, add the extra onto your waist measurement and proceed as above.
4
Once your pattern is drawn cut out. Take 2 pieces and with
right sides together pin the groin curve seams and sew up. Do
the same with the other two pieces. With right sides together,
pin the outer seams together and sew. Finally pin the inner leg
seams together and sew. Hem the bottom and put a waistband on
the top for a drawstring or elastic. You can also put elastic
in the bottoms or leave them to tuck into your boots.
