Starting a New Aquarium
This page is intended to be a brief introduction to the processes that occur in a new aquarium, and assumes that you have already talked to our courteous and helpful staff who have assisted in selecting an aquarium and equipment that is suitable for the fish you wish to keep.
Make sure all of your equipment has been assembled and each component is running properly. You will have to talk to our staff about operating each piece of equipment you have chosen, as with the huge variety of aquarium accessories and equipment available at Morley Aquariums, covering the workings of individual products would take too much space here!
Setting Up a New Aquarium
Make sure all gravel and rocks are rinsed thoroughly in clean, fresh water.
It is easier to plant aquarium plants when there is only a few inches of water in the tank.
After your aquarium is filled, make sure you add the required amount of water conditioner to the tank - dechlorinator for most fish, cichlid conditioner for cichlids. Check with us if you are not sure!
When the aquarium is filled with water, make sure the temperature is stabilised and the heater is calibrated with the thermometer. About 25-26 degrees celcius is adequate for most fish. Again, check with us to make sure!
When you are satisfied that everything is ready, take a sample of your water [about 200mL] and bring it down to us for testing. If your water parameters are correct, you can begin stocking your tank!
'The Nitrogen Cycle
In an aquarium, bacterial colonies within the biological filter make the water safe for the fish by removing the harmful chemicals ammonia and nitrite, and converting them into the harmless chemical nitrate. This process is called the nitrogen cycle - the conversion of toxic ammonia [from respiration, faeces and uneaten food] into toxic nitrite [via Nitrasomas bacteria], which is then converted into far less toxic nitrate [via Nitrobacter bacteria]. The end of this cycle is the removal of this nitrate by water changes, as large quantities of nitrate can cause stress related infection as well as stunting the growth of your fish. An understanding of the nitrogen cycle is important to aquarists, if it is properly managed it will eliminate many problems encountered by the novice. The basic nitrogen cycle is illustrated below.
'Cycling' a New Aquarium
The term 'cycling' is used to describe the starting of the nitrogen cycle within a new aquarium. If an aquarium is 'cycled', it means that the nitrogen cycle is working to full effect - tests will show zero levels of ammonia and nitrite and low, stable levels of nitrate [maintained by water changes].
To cycle your tank, we recommend adding only a small fraction of the total number of fish you wish to keep - one of the staff members at Morley Aquariums will advise you how many this is. The purpose of these initial fish is to provide a source of ammonia. As there is only a small amount of ammonia and only a few fish, usually it is sufficiently diluted as to not cause undue stress to your fish. The presence of this ammonia is then enough to prompt the formation of Nitrasomas bacteria within the filter. These do not need to be added as a seperate product as the fish will introduce it naturally - most of the available bacterial suppliments are, in our opinion, useless. As a colony of this bacteria establishes, it gradually converts all the available ammonia into nitrite. Once the initial surge of ammonia is consumed, these bacteria then consume ammonia and convert it into nitrite as fast as it is produced, thereby causing a zero ammonia level in the tank and a rising nitrite level.
The presence of this rising nitrite level then prompts the formation of Nitrobacter colonies. These bacteria consume nitrite and convert it into nitrate. Once the initial surge of nitrite is consumed, the bacteria then convert it into nitrate as fast as it is produced. This results in a zero nitrite level in the tank and a rising nitrate level.
Once it is observed that nitrate levels in the tank are rising and ammonia and nitrite levels are zero, it can be said that that the tank is cycled. It is now time to maintain those nitrate levels at a stable, reasonable level [less than 150 mg/L for most fish, lower for more sensitive species such as discus]. This is acheived by doing regular partial water changes - small weekly changes are ideal in most cases. Now that ammonia and nitrite levels are zero and nitrate levels are low and steady, the tank is ready to add more fish safely!
But how do you know what the levels of these dissolved compounds are? How do you know when your tank is cycled? Easy! Every week [until your tank matures], from the day you set up your aquarium, bring us a water sample [around 200mL]. Morley Aquariums provides a free water testing service, and any of our staff are able to perform tests for all these compounds in a matter of minutes. Thus, we can advise you on exactly where your tank is on the road to maturity. By having your water tested regularly with us while your tank is maturing, you will probably notice water parameters like this:
CONGRATULATIONS! YOUR AQUARIUM IS NOW READY TO STOCK AND ENJOY!
Notes on Water Changes
It is better to make smaller, more frequent changes than larger, less frequent changes.
A good water change regime for tropical fish, goldfish and Malawi cichlids would involve a weekly 30% water change, while a weekly 10-20% water change would be good for Tanganyikan cichlids. Check with us to see what would best suit your fish.
Adjust your water changing habits to correspond accordingly with changes in stocking levels or feeding.
When placing new water into an aquarium, add a dechlorinator or suitable cichlid conditioner, depending on the type of fish in the tank. Only treat for the amount of water you are adding.
After your tank has cycled, you would be wise to purchase a gravel vaccuum. This device cleans mulm and detritus from your gravel while draining water. A gravel cleaner should be regarded as essential! In fact, it should be the only additional equipment purchase after your tank has been set up.
The purpose of siphoning dirt and gravel washing is to reduce the amount of organic matter in the water, thus reducing the amount of ammonia and reducing stress to your fish.
© 2001 Michael Young - This article may not be reproduced or distributed in any way, shape or form without the written consent of the author.