On the 20th of February my engine arrived.

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Picked up from freight company here in Bathurst. A lot easier to handle than the Sonex box. Who needs a Ute if you can reverse a trailer. Another thing of beauty added to the shed. I though I had better unpack it and turn it over a few times with some more oil.

Connecting up the carburettor 30th September 2008.

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All the little bits I had to make. The throttle extension lever I made because the original was too short and only gave me about 1 inch of throttle travel. I added 3/4" to the lever and I now have 2" of travel and it is not so hard to pull out. The throttle cable itself had to be modified as the shaft on the end of the cable was miles too long. Like the choke there was no means to connected it so I machined up the aluminium adapter which turns inside the lever. The choke cable had no means of connection so I made another little adapter , this one out of steel. The hole for the sheath was miles too big so I made a small collar to sit in the 5/16 " hole and drilled it to take the sheath and then a smaller hole for the cable.

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My new throttle plate which moves the throttle 3/4" to the right so I don't scrape my knuckles on the vertical stiffener any more.

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The Aero Vee air cleaner , I installed this as a tempory measure untill I get my air box finished ,it also gives me one less thing to worry about during flight testing. The air cleaner does not fit straight onto the Bing carburettor I had to make an adapter to mount it. It only just fits in between the carburettor and the engine mounts. Once again the lathe came in handy. I machined it out of a short piece of pipe.Last shot , this is where the air box will be mounted.

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Cooling ducts on and prop hub former on , another good job for my lathe. The last 2 shots show how I brought my CHT leads out from the ducts. I cut a slot in the duct so it would clear the lead. I then covered it with an Aluminium strip and a grommet.

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10th of January 2009.

Cowl starting to go on , this job I have NOT been looking forward to and the worst part is your whole plane will be judged on the quality of this installation. My hands are itchy already.My dip stick inspection cover not 100% flush but OK. The fibre glass is not the same thickness all the way around the cover , requiring shims to get it smooth. Before I paint the cowl I will fill those countersunk rivets and they will hopefully disappear , same as the ones down the side.

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Left cowl on , not as frightful as I though it was going to be. The fit is not too bad, Thanks to my good friend Steve we finished up with an even gap all the way around. Now just a final trim and put the hinges on , finish the fuel flap and then the exhaust tunnel. Full marks to the Sonex people.Last shot is the exhaust tunnel almost ready.

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The exhaust tunnels in place and the fuel filler cover.

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I decided to change the air ducts to the Sonex designed system using my much preferred material , ALUMINIUM. I did not have any drawings so armed with a few photos and lots of cardboard I made my own. This is the left one ,it turned out fine but took me ages.

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Ducts installed on engine , I made some slots for the ignition wires to make it easier to get the duct off. I then covered up the slot with a small piece of channel cut in half. There will be some rubber seals around the front where the cowling meets the ducting to minimise air loss.

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Ducts almost there , front section on , cover plate bolted in, ignition module vent in place inter cylinder baffles in place , what a battle that was getting the wires around the cylinders. Just the rubber seals and vertical baffles to go.

I much prefer having the ignition leads and plugs inside the ducts. With the Jabiru system you could never be shure the plugs were on properly after you pushed them through the holes.

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Rubber seals on , Cooling ducts complete. Last shot is the Jabiu modification to the starter motor. Without the earth strap all the current flows in the bolts. I used a piece of aluminium , only because it was easer (And lighter)than a chunk of 100 amp cable with the lugs on each end.

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Cooling ducts were not complete. I don't believe there is enough room for air to get in the RH cylinder bank and properly cool number 5 cylinder so I installed a cross over pipe from the left hand side to feed more air to the right rear cylinder. I will be watching No 5 cyl head temp very closely during my taxiing tests.

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Engine finally starts. Click for the video clip. Not wonderfull quality , we had no time for multiple takes.

Starter motor repair 2nd January 2013

I decided to put a new boot on the starter motor because the old one was perished and split open exposing the conductor and also looked very ordinary. I started to remove the 3/16" mounting bolts ,the first one came out OK but the second one was seized solid and snapped off right at the thread,BUGGER!!. Then when I dismantled the motor the rubber O rings between the ends fell apart they were so perished.

(A bit strange for a 5 year old engine)

After I calmed down I decided to drill out both threads and install Heli coils in the housing , actually the starter motor gearbox. I used 4mm inserts , a touch bigger than the origional 3/16". Instead of using bolts I made up some 4 mm studs so if I ever need to remove the starter again I will just have to remove the nuts on the end of the studs.

Getting the new boot over the lead was a chalenge but with a bit of lube it eventually went on.

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The first photo is the origional setup. The new rubber boot and some heat shrink to finish it off along with my support bracket. The new O rings from Jabiru are brown. Cost for the boot and the 2 O rings including freight from Bundaberg was $12.

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My broken bolt.It did not require much torque to break , I was using my 1/4" ratchet driver.The Heli coil inserts and the 4 mm studs.