243 Stirling Highway, Claremont
(entry off
Reserve Street)
Telephone: 9384 8886
Articles, Interviews
and Links
Please call the Studio
or email
Jilyan for information
about Bellydance classes and events
243 Stirling Highway, Claremont
(entry off
Reserve Street)
Telephone: 9384 8886
Articles, Interviews
and Links
Please call the Studio
or email
Jilyan for information
about Bellydance classes and events
Stretch
Sewing Techniques for Costume Making
Tips and Tricks by Kerry Stewart
Stretch knit fabric has revolutionised garment construction and simplified home sewing. Stretch fabric is particularly suited to making skirts and one piece costumes. Stunning fitted costumes can be made simply without darts, facings, waistbands, and often without zips. The non-fray nature of knit fabric (with rare exceptions) does away with the need to finish seams and reduces bulk in hems. Hems only need to be turned up once for a finished look, or not turned at all if a trim is sewn on. Trims and appliqué can be stitched on with a small zig-zag stitch and feature areas can be cut away without the fabric fraying.
Here are a few tips to assist you in using stretch fabric, and some techniques specific to sewing with stretch fabric.
Fabric:
Lycra is an idea fabric to use, as it has good stretch and resilience. The shiny lycra, often available with metallic patterns, is suitable for costumes. Cotton lycra is ideal for leggings, bodysuits and dance tops. There are many other fabrics such as panne velvet which are both inexpensive and widely available.
Use only fabric which springs firmly back into place after you stretch it. Beware using cheap fabric to test out a pattern; as it will hang differently and will generally not hold its shape as well as a quality fabric.
Test that the fabric does not run like a stocking by pulling hard on a raw edge near the selvedge. Test both cut ends of the fabric - it will only run in one direction. Avoid such fabric - all your hard work will be ruined by a run in the wrong place. (If you already have the fabric and are determined to use it, make sure that the end which runs is at the hem and not under stress on the waist or hips.)
Occasionally fabric curls at the cut edges. Work by pinning pieces of fabric together with pins at 90 degrees of the direction of the stitching. Stitching a trim over the hem edge helps to hold it in place. If you want to turn a hem, turn and pin a wide hem with pins perpendicular to the hem edge.
Needles and thread
Ballpoint or stretch needles and pins are essential. They are designed to slip between the threads of the fabric. Ordinary needles and pins can cut the threads of stretch fabric.
Polyester thread has inbuilt resilience for the movement in a stretch fabric garment. Cotton thread will break. To test thread, pull it sharply. Cotton thread snaps. (Take care - polyester thread will cut your fingers rather than break.)
Wherever possible, cut and stitch stretch fabric from the bottom of the garment up so you are always pushing the stretch up, not dragging it down.
Although it gives a good finish, it is not essential to use an overlocker for stretch fabric. If you don't have an overlocker, use a straight stitch for flat seams. Always stretch the fabric gently in front and behind the foot as you stitch to build some give into the seam and to avoid that "puckered seam" look. For stronger seams, use the overlock or stretch seam which is available on many sewing machines. This will be a heavy duty stitch which is fine for lycra but is not suitable for fine fabrics. (Stretch a little as you sew with this one too.)
Patterns
Stretch patterns are sized smaller than those for woven fabric and are generally shaped without darts. Be aware that stitching appliqués and beading onto fabric will reduce the stretch effect, so go up one size for heavily decorated garments. On the other hand, if your fabric is very stretchy you may need to go down one size.
If you have a favourite woven fabric pattern you wish to use with stretch fabric, go up one size for a plain garment, or use your normal size for a heavily decorated piece.
Use a pattern, even for a straight skirt, to get the curve over the hips. For a straight skirt or a galabeya, measure side splits to just above the knee. When you have a pattern for a simple fitted dress, experiment with appliqués, cut-outs and one-shoulder styles. Use a fitted sleeve pattern to make arm accessories.
Always cut out fabric with the maximum stretch running around the body (not up and down). Check that the nap of fabrics such as panne velvet runs down the body on all pieces of the garment.
Easy elasticised waist
Because the top edge of your skirts will be covered by a belt, you can use a very simple technique with elastic to finish a skirt (whether it be at the waist or hips) which gives you a neat, flat elasticised edge.
Allow 2.5cm (1") hem at waist/hip edge. Measure 2cm (3/4") elastic 6cm shorter than your waist/hip measurement. (Stitching on the elastic will stretch it out again.) Overlap the elastic by 2cm and stitch firmly together. Mark the elastic circle and the edge of the skirt into quarters with vertically placed pins. Lay the elastic on the wrong side of the skirt, matching the quarter markings. (It is less bulky if the overlap of the elastic is not on a seam.) Stitch the elastic to the skirt, stretching the elastic to fit the skirt, using a wide triple zig-zag stitch. Then, fold the top of the skirt over to turn the elastic inside the garment. Finish the edge by stitching along what is now the lower edge of the elastic with a small zig zag stitch, stretching gently as you sew. This also finishes off the raw edge of the fabric.
Some web sites with ideas for making costumes