"W.J.O.S. NEWS"

October 2018
Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society (Inc)

Website: http://members.iinet.net.au/~emntee/

President - Tony; Phone; 9342 3799 EMAIL

Secretary - Clifton; Phone; 0428 268 600 EMAIL

Treasurer - Charly; Phone; 9206 4589 EMAIL

Registrar - Chris; Phone; 9246 3189 EMAIL

Editor - Tony; Phone; 9342 3799 EMAIL

P.O. Box 236, Kingsway, WA 6065.

Please Note!!

Change of meeting venue & start time

Next Meeting

Will be held, Thursday October 18th 7.30pm, at the St. Lukes School at Woodvale. This is on the corner of Whitfords Ave and Duffy Terrace, Woodvale. See map here
Visitors and New Members always welcome

Topic of the evening
AGM

Membership Fees- Couple/family $40. Single $27. (Includes Badge)
Renewal - Couple/family $25. Single $20. Junior $7

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Results of the WJOS Meeting September 2018

George Webber Memorial Trophy & Open Popular Vote -

Odontonia Mem. Martin Oremstein owned by Ray

Novice;

Lynne B's Den Elegant Heart

Floral Art

Octoberfest by Sara

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Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society Calendar for 2018 - 2019
Please note that the time for set-up of displays between 8 & 9 am on the Thursday morning of the display. Plants can still be brought in after that time if it is more convenient.

November 4th - Bunnings Sausage Sizzle, Bunnings Joondalup

May 11th- 12th 2019 - Ocean Keys Display

July 6th - 7th, 2019 (Winter) Northern Orchid & Garden Fair, John Septimus Roe School, Mirrabooka

August 3rd - 4th 2019, Inter Society Orchid Display & Workshop,
Albany

September 14th- 15th 2019 Spring Orchid Fair

October 5th & 6th (Spring) Northern Orchid & Garden Fair, John Septimus Roe School, Mirrabooka

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Floral Arrangement
For October-Oktoberfest
For November - In the Kitchen
For December - A Chrismas Gift

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CLUB NEWS

Pots - If you require orchid pots from the society, please ring John on 0418 854 732 and he will bring them to the next meeting

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Xmas Hampers...
This is our annual call for donations for our Xmas hampers. It is
always a fun way to enjoy our Xmas meeting with a raffle of goodies.
Perhaps a free raffle as we have had a very successful year.
Please give your donations to Mavis and do take note of the 'use by dates'.
Your thoughts?

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Meeting Start time

Please take note!!
The meetings of the Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society now take place at St Luke's School at Woodvale, Whitfords Ave and Duffy Terrace, with the entrance to the parking area being on Duffy Tce
Also.... The meeting will start at 7.30

Please make sure that your orchids arrive by 7.15 so that they can be entered, placed on the trestles so the meeting can start without all the talking at the back of the hall and the judges can get on with their work.
Please be considerate of others.

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2018 has been quite a good year for the Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society and it's members, due to some lateral thinking on the part of your Committee. The Bunning's sausage sizzle that we did last year brought in some $ to our coffers, and will be on again in November this year.

The joint venture with the Northern Districts Orchid Society of the Northern Orchid & Garden Fair in July this year, at JSR, Mirrabooka, was a resounding success for both organisations, our members and the general public. The inclusion of other orchid and non orchid groups as vendors went a long way toward paying for the hall hire and as an additional draw for members of the public. A win, win for all.

The two societies are planning to do the Northern Orchid & Garden Fair again in July 2019, (Winter Fair) with suggestions that it should be repeated in October 2019 (Spring Fair) instead of our annual Workshop, which has slowly been loosing favour with the public.

The society's participation in the Spring Orchid Fair at the Aranmore College, Leederville in September was another successful effort, both financially and as a vehicle for promoting orchids with a view to the World Orchid Conference which will be at that time of year.

Your Committee is planning to drop the Northlands Show next year as it has proved quite costly but we are planning to have displays at the Ocean Keys and North Beach as we have done for the last few years. One of the great advantages of these events is taking orchids to new areas.
Members thoughts are always welcome

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Results of the September meeting 2018

Novice Section

Laelinae Alliance

15A, 1st Rl. glauca Lynne B
15, 1st C. Unknown Lynne B

15F, 1st Psh. Sunburst John P
2nd Epi. Unknown Sandy L

Cymbidium
16C, 1st Cym. Unknown Dave B
16D
1st Cym. Key West 'Barry' Sara

16E, 1st Cym. Mini 'Pee- Wee' Ian
Papiopedilum

17D, 1st Paph. Winston Churchill 'Indomitable'x Thunder Cat Sizzler. Lynne B.
2nd Paph. Cocoa Lovely x Cocoa Green John P
3rd Paph. Unknown Gillian C
Dendrobeae
18E, 1st Den. Unknown Lynne B
2nd Den. Unknown Gillian C
Oncidinae
20c, 1st Onc. Singapore 'Delight' John P

20D, 1st Colm. Jungle Monarch 'Everglades' Sandy L

2nd Odcdm. 'Tiger Crow' John P

Vandeae

21A, 1st Rhy. gigantea 'Spots' x Chochalood '2' John P

Australian Native Epiphyte

22A,1st Den. speciosum 'Buttercup' x speciosum var.grandiflorum 'Julian' John P
2nd Den. linguiformus Ian
3rd Den. jonesii John P

22B, 1st Den. Yellow Star 'Gold Venture' HCC/AOS John P
2nd Den.x delicatum Ian

3rd Den. Elegant Heart Lynne B
Seedling
26
1st C.walkeriana 'Kenny' x C. intermedia John A

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As Clifton will be standing down from the WJOS Committee at our next meeting, there is a vacancy for any member(s) who would be interested in learning about your society and how it is run. Your society depends on your active participation into the future to maintain the vibrancy, and vitality in coming years.
We are all getting older and will not be around forever, so please have a thought about becoming a part of the drive that has kept our club going since it's inception in 1975. Talk to any Committee member to become a part of the history as we proceed to the
future

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The Results of the Spring Orchid Show

The Grand Champion and Best Any Other was Zba. Kiwi Shadow X Z. John Banks owned by John S.

The Reserve Champion and Champion Phalaenopsis went to Mavis & Tony's Phal. amabilis var formosum which was also Best Species in Show.

Champion Cymbidium was won by Keith's Cym Dr. Len 'Ruby Sunset'

Champion Paphiopedilum was Paph Berenice 'Blondie' owned by Sandy & Tony

The Champion Laelinae went to Bruce fo Rl. glauca

Champion Oncidinae was Trichocentrum stipitatatum owned by Mavis & Tony

Champion Dendrobeae was won by Ray with Den Yukidurama 'King'

And Champion Vandaceous was Courtneys Angreacum sesquipedale X Angcm. eburneum subsp. superbum.

Novice growers did well with Clifton taking the Best Orchid in Novice with Den Violet X Den Victorian Bride X Den Class 'Pinterry', which was also Best Aust. Native in Novice. Clifton Also won Best Floral Art.

Lynne's Paph Winston Churchill X Thundercat was Best Paph in Novice, while Andy took Best Cymbidium in Novice with an unknown Cym in his first show.

Best Australian Native in Show was Keiths Den Delicatum X Den Kinders

Best Seedling was Ray's Den Esme Poulton X speciosum var speciosum.

Ray also had the Best Specimen with Den speciosum X speciosum

Well done to all the winners.

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Results of the September Meeting

Open

Laelinae Alliance
1B, 1st C. Lunar Orbit 'Gale' Mike & Jill

1D, 1st Ctna. Why Not Lee x Self Ray

1F, 1st L. Icarus x Gold Star x Trick Or Treat Neil & Barbara

Cymbidium

2E, 1st Den.Dr Len 'Ruby Sunset' Ray

Paphiopedilum

3B, 1st Paph. Fanaticum Tony & Sandy
2nd Paph. chamberlianum 'Matilda' HCC/AOS x malipoense. Mike & Jill

3E, 1st Paph. Bernice 'Hooves' Tony & Sandy

2nd Paph. Bernice 'Blondie' Tony & Sandy

Dendrobeae
4E, 1st Den. Yukidarma 'King' Ray
Oncidinae

6D, 1st Odtna. Mem. Martin Oremstien 'Lulu' Ray
2nd Mnt.Hawaiian Sunset Mike & Jill

Vandeae

7A, 1st Aergs. fastuosa Ray

Australian Native Epiphyte

8B, 1st Den. Tully James Blewitt 'Tinonee' x Kayla x speciosum Ray
2nd Den. Ellen Noel & Eva

Species
10B, 1st Cal. vestita Noel & Eva
2nd Bletia. striata Noel & Eva

Hybrids
11A

1st Prag. Fitz Schomburg Tony & Sandy
11B

1st Glspm. Giant x Arthur Elle 'Old Port' Ray
2nd Phaius. Lady Ramona Harkis 'Looking At You' Ray

Seedling
12

1st Paph. Julis (lowii x rothschildianum) Tony & Sandy

2nd Den. Esme Poulton x Den. speciosum var. speciosum 'Windermere' Ray

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The Report from the

Inter Society Display and Workshop
"Flowers, Fairytales & Fantasies"

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A Note To Novice Growers
Please don't be afraid to bring along to the meetings, any orchids that you have in flower. Members will be more than willing to assist you in understanding how to improve your orchids. That is what the Society is all about. Our purpose is to help orchid growers, to help orchid growers
We are not there to ridicule or embarrass our newer members. Quite the opposite. We want to help you improve your orchids so that you can become better growers yourselves.

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My question was....

Can anyone help me to understand why it is that the application
of oil emulsions (Neem, sunflower, mineral oil) is supposed to block insect and arachnid spiracles (external respiratory opening) and yet not harm the plant leaves and their stomata?
Maybe plants' stomatal pores are too big to be blocked as easily as insects' spiracle pores. Ideas anyone?

The answer;

As animals, insects and arachnids suffocate faster due to their
Relatively higher respiratory rates and oxygen needs. When applied the oils spread over the arthropod bodies and suffocate them before the oils breakdown from action of the surfactants and micro-organismal activities. Basically, the oils breakdown during the
interval between suffocating the arthropod (insects with an exoskeleton) and suffocating the plant. Plants do suffer from being sprayed with oils, but most of the chemical damage is from the surfactants - which is why most household or industrial detergents are too strong to use - or secondary physical actions such as lenticular burning. (Where the oil acts as a lens)

Typically, the oils breakdown or are washed from the plant before suffocation occurs. Suffocation of the plant requires more time than the arthropods but will happen if the oils are applied too heavily or if they thicken after application - another reason to use quality mineral or vegetable oils and appropriate surfactants.

Paul

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As our spring weather warms up, the small bities are on the move and looking to breakfast on our orchids. They tend to prefer the nice tender bits like new growth, buds and such like.
Neem oil has long been used to keep insects under control and this is the time of year to use it on your orchids.
Neem oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the fruits and seeds of the Neem (Azadirachta indica), an evergreen tree which is endemic to the Indian subcontinent and has been introduced to many other areas in the tropics.
Neem oil kills or repels many harmful insects and mites, including aphids, whiteflies, snails, nematodes, mealybugs, cabbage worms, gnats, moths, cockroaches, flies, termites, mosquitoes, and scale.
It kills some bugs outright, attacks the larvae of others, and repels plant munchers with its bitter taste.

It has many traditional uses outside of the insecticidal traits. For centuries, the seeds have been used in wax, oil and soap preparations. It is currently an ingredient in many organic cosmetic products too.
Neem oil can be extracted from most parts of the tree, but the seeds hold the highest concentration of the insecticidal compound. The effective compound is Azadirachin, and it is found in highest amounts in the seeds. There are numerous neem oil uses, but gardeners hail it for its anti-fungal and pesticide properties.
Neem oil is practically non-toxic to birds, mammals, bees and plants. Neem oil is slightly toxic to fish and other aquatic organisms. Azadirachtin, a component of neem oil, is moderately toxic to fish and other aquatic animals. It is important to remember that insects must eat the treated plant to be killed.
Eco-Neem is a registered organic insecticide for the control of chewing and sucking insects including caterpillars, curl grubs, grasshoppers, mealybugs, lawn armyworm, aphids, mites, citrus leafminer, fungus gnats and whitefly. It suppresses appetite so insects stop feeding and starve to death. Eco-neem also causes distorted pest growth increasing mortality and making them more susceptible to predator attack.
" Very effective on a broad range of chewing and sucking insects
" Made from 100% botanical ingredients and registered organic (Australian Organic)
Safe for beneficial insects (only insects which eat the sprayed plants are affected)

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Our Sponsors

1/45 Stockdale Road, O'Connor,WA 6163
info@growthtechnology.com.au
Phone (08) 9331 3091

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Ezi-Gro Orchids
76 Evandale Rd, Darch
Western Australia
6065

Ezi-Gro Orchids are now CLOSED on Sundays

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Boisduval Scale - possibly the world's worst orchid pest

See all the pictures HERE

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Reed Stem Epidendrums

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A message from The Water Corporation

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Paphiopedilum Culture Notes (Oct/Nov) by Trevor Burnett

As I discussed last month you should be now insuring that by the end of October you have completed your repotting of the plants that have finished flowering. The plants that did not produce spikes should already be done.

With warmer conditions now gradually becoming the norm during these months increase attention need to be given to the watering. As all my plants now have a nice new open mix I increase my watering program to once a week but always in the morning.

When you water now, check to ensure that the water freely flow out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. As a lot of us place small crock pieces in the base of the pot, we need to insure that good drainage is maintained and we have not retarded the water flow with cocking of the pots. With the warmer weather, the fertiliser program can be increased to weekly or fortnightly with a high nitrogen based fertiliser to promote good development of the new growths. When repotting plants from the existing pot, carefully extract all the growing mix with your fingers and remove any dead roots. Care must be taken not to damage live roots when repotting as Paphiopedilum orchids have a limited root system.

Place in the pot with the base of the plant some 15mm below the rim of the pot and work the mix in and around the roots. Gently bumping the pot on the bench can also assist in the placement of the mix. On top of the mix I spread a small quantity of crushed sea shells or gravel sand which helps support the plant from moving in the pot, which will cause root damage.

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