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August 2018
Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society

Website: http://members.iinet.net.au/~emntee/

President - Tony; Phone; 9342 3799 EMAIL

Secretary - Clifton; Phone; 0428 268 600 EMAIL

Treasurer - Charly; Phone; 9206 4589 EMAIL

Registrar - Chris; Phone; 9246 3189 EMAIL

Editor - Tony; Phone; 9342 3799 EMAIL

P.O. Box 236, Kingsway, WA 6065.


Please Note!!

Change of meeting venue & start time

Next Meeting

Will be held, Thursday August 16th, 7.30pm, at the St. Lukes School at Woodvale. This is on the corner of Whitfords Ave and Duffy Terrace, Woodvale. See map here
Visitors and New Members always welcome

Topic of the evening
Dendrobium speciosum and its hybrids - Norm Stockton

Membership Fees- Couple/family $40. Single $27. (Includes Badge)
Renewal - Couple/family $25. Single $20. Junior $7

Results of the WJOS Meeting July 2018

George Webber Trophy Winner:

Rhy. gigantae Charly

Popular Vote In The Open:

Bulb. Elizabeth Ann Buckleberry Charly

Popular Vote In The Novice:

Ctt. Amaroo John P

Floral Art: Theme:

Mid Winter Orchids: Gillian M

All this months pix by Phil

Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society Calendar for
Please note that the time for set-up of displays between 8 & 9 am on the Thursday morning of the display. Plants can still be brought in after that time if it is more convenient.

September 15 - 16 Combined Orchid Show - Aranmore College, Oxford St Leederville

October. 7 - WJOS Workshop. Osborne Park Showgrounds. Royal St.


Please return the annual trophies to Denny.

Floral Arrangement
For August - A Floral Cascade
For September - Curly Whirly
For October-Oktoberfest



Pots - If you require orchid pots from the society, please ring John on 0418 854 732 and he will bring them to the next meeting


Venue Lights - The society is in discussions with the school to improve the lighting around the hall. More to come about this.


The society will need someone to put their hand up to be secretary next year as Clifton is standing down. Many thanks Clifton.


Meeting Start time

Please take note!!
The meetings of the Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society now take place at St Luke's School at Woodvale, Whitfords Ave and Duffy Terrace, with the entrance to the parking area being on Duffy Tce
Also.... The meeting will start at 7.30

Please make sure that your orchids arrive by 7.15 so that they can be entered, placed on the trestles so the meeting can start without all the talking at the back of the hall and the judges can get on with their work.
Please be considerate of others.


Many thanks to Lynne for chairing the General Meeting in the absence of the president and both vice presidents. A very rare occurrence.


Much fun was had be all on the bus trip to Tropical Colours and Flora Plant. Many members came home with lighter wallets.


HOT OFF THE PRESS!! The Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society ran 2nd at the Inter Society Orchid Display & Workshop!! The big winner this year was the Albany Orchid Society, with the Species Orchid Society of WA winning the display prize.

Results of the July meeting 2018

Novice Section
Laelinae Alliance

1st Ctt. Amaroo John P


2nd Cym. Unknown Gillian C

1st Cym. Karen Jean 'Icicle' Gillian C


1st Paph.Leeanum John P

2nd Paph. Varuna Lynne G


2nd Den. Unknown Gillian C


1st Onc. Pacific Sunrise 'Hakalu' John P

2nd Onc. Twinkle 'Fragrant Fantasy' Lynne G

1st Dgmra . Winter Wonderland 'White Fairy' Lynne G

Australian Native

1st Den. Splish Splash x Regal Hilda Rockstar John P

2nd Den.(Helen Wong x Zip) x Renee x (Victorian Regency x Hilda Poxon) John P


Northern Orchid and Garden Fair 7th / 8th July 2018
Results of the Combined Orchid Exhibition (NDOS and WJOS)

Grand Champion Den. Rungroj 'Splash' Neil and Barbara

Reserve Champion Phal. Champion Lightening Bruce

Champion Cymbidium Cym. Gentle Touch 'Bon Bon' Steve

Champion Paphiopedilum Paph. Leeanum John P

Champion Laelinae Alliance Rlc. Dream Trader Rosa

Champion Phalaenopsis Phal. Champion Lightening Bruce

Champion Australian Native Den. Annes Rainbow Gillian

Champion Oncidinae Wls. Ursula Isler Gillian

Champion Dendrobium Den. Rungroj 'Splash' Neil and Barbara

Champion Vandaceous Rhynchostylis gigantea Ray

Best Any Other Genera Ctcm. Black Jade x christyanum Neil & Barbara

Best Seedling in Show Zygopetalum Keith I

Best Species in Show Den. tetragonium. John P

Best Specimen in Show Paph. insigne var. sanderae Beth

Best Cymbidium in Novice Cym. Unknown Clifton

Best Paphiopedilum in Novice Paph. Leeanum John P

Best Laelinae Alliance in Novic Ctt. Amarod John P

Best Australian Native in Novice Den. Hilda Poxon Beth

Best Orchid in Novice Paph. Leeanum John P

Best Floral Art An Aussie Theme Clifton



Growing of Bulbophyllum Orchids, by Charly
Continued from last month.

Applying water
For hand watering, I use a 5-litre pressure pump (from Bunnings). However as the nozzle was too fine for my purpose, I have enlarged the opening with a 3mm drill bit. I wanted lots of water since the Bulbophyllum lobbii baskets (40cm x 40cm) need almost 1 litre of water.
As I water very early in the morning, (about at 6:30am) the water temperature is not very friendly for Bulbophyllum orchids. The optimum temperature seems to be 25°C to 30°C (no higher). To achieve this, I put about 4 litres of water in my container and then add about 1 litre of boiling water from a kettle, checking with a thermometer that the temperature is between 25°C and 30°C. This aspect of watering is very important. Cold water on a new leaf tip or flower spike can turn this very tender growth black and kill it overnight (see photo below).
This has happened to me more than once since I began growing Bulbophyllum orchids. However, once I increased the water temperature to 25°C to 30°C it did not recur. This also applies to seedlings. Using cold water, I experienced a 90% mortality rate. Since using warm water, the mortality rate has decreased to just about zero (not perfect but close).
There is one more benefit from using warm water. Due to the water-holding capacity of the sphagnum moss that I use (see later notes on media) and the strong air circulation throughout the night, the water in the moss gets very cool.

This is not a desired environment for the Bulbophyllum roots. So, when I water in the morning I expel the cold water and replace it with warm water. As I am watering from the top of the basket or pot, I place my hand underneath to feel the cold water running out being replaced by warm water. It's like waking them up with a nice warm shower. You wouldn't chose to have a cold shower on a cold winter's morning!

How often do I water?
Last but not least. Salt is the enemy for all of our orchids. While I constantly try to avoid salt building up in my mix, this cannot always be avoided. Salt dissolves easier and faster in warm water than in cold water. So to my way of thinking, having warm water may help to flush out the accumulated salt from the moss. For this reason, I water
almost every day. Not because my Bulbophyllum orchids need water every day, but to keep them warm and flush out any salt at the same time.
Some believe if you water your orchids in the morning, they will dry out by evening, a requirement for growing many species of orchids. However, in my experience this does not apply to Bulbophyllum orchids. I have found that you can water your plants at any time. They won't hold it against you, if you have the right conditions and you use warm water. It is also a tremendous help to your Bulbophyllum orchids if you stand your pot into a shallow dish with 1 or 2 cm of water in it.
I do not seasonally change my watering regime - I have the same regime year round.

Every package or container of fertiliser includes instructions as to how much you should use. I tend to ignore most of it, because none of it gives me the information I need and that is - HOW MUCH SALT IS IN MY WATERING CONTAINER WHEN I FERTILISE MY PLANT? How do I determine that?
My EC (Electrical Conductivity) meter measures the salt content in the water. Before adding any chemicals or fertiliser, the reading for my rainwater is 0.22 when in a perfect world, it would be zero. When the rain runs off my roof it picks up salts. .22 is an acceptable level of impurities as the recommended maximum salt level for our orchids is 0.80.
I can therefore add fertilizer to my 5 litre container until the EC meter gives a reading of 0.80. However, some fertilisers can significantly change the pH because they are acidic or basic. My fertilizing regime for the months of November and December was:

01/11/17 Calcium Nitrate 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
05/11/17 Bill's Best 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
09/11/17 Omegazyme 1.5ml/L pH adjustment 6.5ml
13/11/17 Humibossta 0.5ml/L 2.5ml
7/11/17 Ezi-Root 10ml/per 5Litre
21/11/17 Epsom Salt 4grams/ per 5 Litre
25/11/17 Hygenseaessentials 3ml
29/11/17 Calcium Nitrate 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
03/12/17 Bill's Best 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
07/12/17 Omegazyme 1.5ml/L pH adjustment 6.5ml
11/12/17 Humibossta 0.5ml/L 2.5ml
15/12/17 Ezi-Root 10ml/per 5Litre
19/12/17 Epsom Salt 4grams/ per 5 Litre
23/12/17 Hygenseaessentials 3ml
27/12/17 Calcium Nitrate 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
31/12/17 Bill's Best 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
(Note-1 teaspoon = approx. 4 grams or 5 millitres)

From my list of fertilisers you can see that most of the amounts are very small but I fertilize every 4th day. Before fertilising, water first or you can risk root burn. The reason for my rotation of the fertiliser available is simply the fact that I do not trust the chemical content labelling on the containers. By rotating I even out any inconsistency in the labelling

Potting Bulbophyllum Orchids
What is a happy Bulbophyllum and what is a sad one?
There are 3 things to look out for to determine if your Bulbophyllum is healthy or struggling.
*The main indicator is the pseudobulb itself. If it is plump and full - it's good.
*If the pseudobulb is shrivelled, take it out from the pot and look at the roots. The roots will tell you if it can be saved or not. If the roots are dark to black then they are dead or dying. You need light coloured roots
*The leaves: Are they shiny or dull looking? The front leaf should look shiny or else something could be wrong. If the back leaves are dull that could simply be aging.

What are front and back leaves? The front leaves are the newly grown ones (youngest), the back leaves are the first grown or the oldest ones.

Example of a good root system

I was given this Bulbophyllum kubahense with one good root about 1 cm long (on the right pseudobulb), at about the end of April in 2017. As you can see the left pseudobulb was shrivelled and the roots were black indicating that this part of the plant was dying. Did it survive? Yes! The left leaf died soon after, but the right leaf did open properly.

At the end of October 2017 I did a check and found that the roots had grown back to a point where I was unable to pull it out of the moss. It may take another 6 months before it is back to its normal growing cycle because Bulbophyllum kubahense is a slow growing plant. Never give up; even with one tiny root, your plant can be saved in the right condition.

Two leaves have grown out of the pot. What should I do? This is a typical situation where parts of the plant are happily growing in moss and others rambling out of moss. Notice the difference in root growth (photo to the right).
You can see about 3 cm long roots on the rhizome and about 7cm long roots where the roots were in the moss. If the moss is still in good condition do not remove it, this way the plant will continue growing without pausing.

A plastic pipe will be its new home. I cut a 100 mm wide pipe in half lengthwise, then take my heat-gun warm the ends and bend it up at the end and drilled some holes in the bottom. Put some moss in the bottom of the pipe, plant on top, more moss on top and done.












This plant decided to go walkabout. (picture to right).
However, what is interesting again is the difference in root growth, out of moss and in moss.










In the photo left , you can see a much larger root grows in the middle of the rhizome, where the Bulbophyllum expanded into the second container, compared to the roots as it comes out of the first container, where it did not get much water as it was not in the sphagnum moss.











The photograph on the right illustrates a wrong choice of pot. The roots are coming out of the pot because they are not getting enough water.
I carefully cut the roots free of the pot avoiding damaging the roots, so that I am able to remove the plant and repot in a bigger pot (Pic. below left )











The moss also still looks ok, so put more donuts in a bigger pot and fill in the sides. Now the new leaves will have more room and the roots will get more water. This plant should improve.

If the plant is small or the roots are short then at times use old meat or sausage trays and only use larger pots when the roots have grown longer.




Moss, Bark and Mounting
While you can grow Bulbophyllum in either bark or sphagnum moss. I grow all of mine in only moss, as it holds water much longer than bark - up to one week. While bark is cheaper I consider moss to be better. You will see the difference when it has been repotted in moss compared to a plant in bark. I have had a greater result growing Bulbophyllum in moss. Removing moss from the fine Bulbophyllum roots is a breeze while removing them from bark is almost impossible. The roots stick to the bark like s*#%* to a blanket and getting them apart without damaging them (the roots) is impossible.

The other thing which comes to my mind is the absorption of the fertiliser. With bark the plants absorb less fertiliser than with moss. Hence if I ever have to miss a watering day, then it would be always the day after fertilising. Why? So that the roots get more food for another extra day.

When I started growing Bulbophyllum, mounting them was on my mind. I collected nice driftwoods and they looked terrific. The only thing they didn't do was grow well.

After two years I came to the conclusion something was wrong (I must be a slow learner). I did try three on fern tree slabs.
But within four months the tips of the leaves on one plant started to get yellow. So what happened? The first plant on a piece of driftwood simply did not get enough water. To make a mounted plant grow like the ones in moss, you would probably have to water them more than once a day.
A second plant on the tree fern slab did grow better, however again within four months yellow leaves started to appear. A salt build-up was the cause. The only way to rectify that was to take it off the tree fern slab, though it was a 3-hour operation.
I still have one Bulbophyllum on a tree fern slab, but the reason for that is, it's doing quite well and I am afraid to take it off. It is Bulbophyllum phalaenopsis and in very good condition, so I don't want to disturb it. The slab is on a slight angle to hold more water.

Bill Thoms (see below) did mention to me that he is growing his Bulbophyllum frostii on timber mounts. However, he will make sure that the timber is horizontal and the timber has some kind of hollow so that the timber holds some water.
At this time it's probably appropriate to add a quote from Bill's book: 'If it's mounted on something that dries out quickly, such as cork or hardwood, it doesn't stand a chance of reaching its true potential'. He should know, after 40 odd years of growing this genus.

Pests and Diseases
Fortunately so far I have not had any issues with pests or diseases. However should I see some bugs, I would use Neem Oil. This is a natural product from the seed of a tree from India. Neem works by being absorbed into the plant and causing insects to stop eating as they don't seem to like the taste. Mix with hot water and a drop of Palmolive detergent to form a yellow milky solution and apply to the plant. For any insects I would also use rubbing alcohol. Apply full strength to the insects (DO NOT USE ON PAPHIOPEDILUM BUDS). The other product I use to prevent fungal problems is Bravo Weather Stik fungicide.

What is BioGro is a question on many of my orchid colleague's minds.
I have used BioGro on my Orchids since February 2018 and the results are outstanding. Basically, BioGro is an organic microbial enzyme activator, which changes the soil or medium structure and improves the nutrient uptake.

The microbes in BioGro will control the pH to maintain a better nutrition uptake by the plants so that the plants in turn will give sugars back to the microbes. This is a symbiotic relationship and the microbes in BioGro will do everything possible to ensure their own survival. They will control their own environment. That is why your pH levels will stabilise.

The microbes in BioGro also secrete plant growth enzymes that are needed by the plants. These enzymes are secreted by the microbes in nature. What the manufacturer has done is to increase the concentration of this type of microbe in their product, and I believe is responsible for the vigorous growth seen in my orchids.
BioGro prevents fungal diseases from cropping up by out competing the pathogens for food and space. This is called Competitive Inhibition and Exclusion.

BioGro will alter the pH and adapt itself to the PH in the medium if necessary. The pH basically controls which species of microbes are able to perform their tasks. What the manufacturer has done is to include various species of microbes into BioGro that are able to perform in a variety of pH conditions. For example, at pH 5, species A will function for Nitrogen absorption, at pH 6, species B will perform the nitrogen absorption function because species A is now unable to perform. At pH 7, species C will take over this role.

The microbes in BioGro will cease to function at about 60°C. Anything above 45°C will severely degrade its performance. So, never use hot water when you mix or use BioGro. At the other end of the temperature range, the microbes in BioGro will go into hibernation at 6°C. So, when you use BioGro in winter expect little or no reaction.
Another requirement for the microbes to perform well is adequate moisture in the growing medium. Moist to the touch is sufficient for the microbes to perform. The optimum temperature is anything from 16°c to 40°c.
BioGro is an Australian product that has been used very successfully in countries including Papua New Guinea, Indonesia, Myanmar, Cambodia, India, Germany and Nigeria. In these countries, BioGro has been used in conjunction with field expertise and advice provided to farmers, leading to better and more sustainable agricultural practices, increased crop yields and reliance on natural ingredients to repel pests.


This is Bulbophyllum Elizabeth Ann 'Buckleberry'. It has flowered for me every year. Since February this year it has grown 3 new leaves. This may not be unusual would it not be for the fact that it had already grown 4 leaves from August last year to December.



In other words, it has grown 2 lots of leaves in one growing season.
The old leaves are 20cm long while the new one 25cm long.






BioGro also supposed to increase root growth. This appears to be the case as can be seen on this plant of Bulbophyllum biflorum








If anybody is in need of any of these products I am using please let me know, I can advise the best place to purchase same or buy some on your behalf.

For further reading see


The Incomplete Guide;

From A to Why,

by Bill Thoms


Combined Orchid Show

A combined orchid society show is being planned for the 15th & 16th September which will include the Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society, Northern Districts Orchid Society, The Cymbidium Orchid Club and The Species Orchid Society of WA

These four groups will take equal responsibility for the organising,
financing and running of the event and also take equal shares in any profits that accrue.

The Australian Native Orchid Society and the Paphiopedilum Study Group will take part this year, with small displays. The hope is that in the long run, as many Western Australian orchid societies as possible will become involved to make this an event to be remembered.

The long term plan is for this event to be held at the same time each year leading into the World Orchid Conference in 2023. Hopefully the public will come used to this and to expect an orchid event to be held each year at that time.

There will be one sales table for orchids and orchid workshops and talks for the general public will be arranged. This will not be a repotting session for the public however. Those events can become quite messy with diseased orchids and livestock being present on peoples uncared for orchids, and they could spread to members orchids so repotting will not be included.

A casserole night is planned for all the workers on the Saturday night to increase the camaraderie and inclusiveness amongst various orchid
society members.

There have been suggestions that the Inter Society Orchid Display & Workshop could eventually be included as part of this event but no decisions have been made regarding this at the present time. All is up for future discussion.

As The Cymbidium Orchid Club has their own judges, they would prefer to have a separate judging for their society. All other judging would be carried out by the Orchid Judges Panel of WA.
A venue will be the Aranmore School Hall on Oxford St Leederville.


Results of the July Meeting

Open Section

Laelinae Alliance

1st Enc. cochleatum Neil & Barbara

1st Rlc. Shin Fong 'Unique' John


1st Paph. villosum Charly


1st Den. Ekapol 'Splash' Neil & Barbara


1st Onc. Sweet Sugar Neal & Barbara

1st Wils. Ursula Isler Gillian M

2nd Incdm. Popcorn 'Haruri' Gillian M


1st Rhy. gigantea Charly

Australian Native Terrestrial

1st Ptst. curta Gillian M


1st Bulb. fascinator Charly

2nd Bulb. maxillare Charly


1st Bulb. Elizabeth Ann Buckleberry Charly


The Report from the

Inter Society Display and Workshop
"Flowers, Fairytales & Fantasies"


A Note To Novice Growers
Please don't be afraid to bring along to the meetings, any orchids that you have in flower. Members will be more than willing to assist you in understanding how to improve your orchids. That is what the Society is all about. Our purpose is to help orchid growers, to help orchid growers
We are not there to ridicule or embarrass our newer members. Quite the opposite. We want to help you improve your orchids so that you can become better growers yourselves.



Our Sponsors

1/45 Stockdale Road, O'Connor,WA 6163
(08) 9331 3091


Ezi-Gro Orchids
76 Evandale Rd, Darch
Western Australia

Ezi-Gro Orchids are now CLOSED on Sundays


Boisduval Scale - possibly the world's worst orchid pest

See all the pictures HERE

Reed Stem Epidendrums


A message from The Water Corporation



by Trevor
The plants have expended considerable energy in producing and supporting flowers. The early variety flowers will be now coming to an end, and it is now time to look towards the task of repotting, and replacement of the growing medium for the following reasons: (a) The plant has grown too large for existing container. (b) Potting material has broken down and must be replaced. (c) Plant has naturally divided into two pieces. (d) Have purchased plants from various sources in flower through the flowering season. Paphiopedilum are repotted in a variety of growing media which are generally bark or wood chip based. Most plants require repotting every second year for those in larger pots, or more often if your orchids are in smaller pots. Small plants respond to repotting more frequently with increased growth. The watering regime of the grower will influence mix selection. If you are a compulsive applier of water and have difficulty in withholding watering, you will need a more open mix to allow the plants to dry out a little between watering. On the other hand a grower who is sparing with watering or is away from home for periods may require a finer mix that is able to maintain water longer. A finer mix can be obtained by using the basic bark mix and adding some sphagnum moss to the mix. My watering program comes back to 10 days between watering, and the general mix that I use is: (a) four parts clean bark (b) one part charcoal (c) one part polystyrene or perlite I add to the above dolomite lime and slow release fertiliser Text books recommend growing the plants in small pots but I personally do not like bonsai, so I grow my plants in larger pots 130mm or 140mm, and get good results. I believe you obtain larger growths which at the end of the season results in larger and stronger flowers. I also make a habit of repotting any new orchids purchased or otherwise acquired into my own medium as soon as possible. Often, growers purchase plants from many sources and leave them in the existing mix as the mix looks fine. This is a trap as your watering and fertilising program is developed for your mix and conditions, and may not be suited to another's media choice. It is extremely difficult to manage your collection for the best results if you have a variety of mixes at various stages of decomposition.