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February 2018
Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society

Website: http://members.iinet.net.au/~emntee/

President - Tony; Phone; 9342 3799 EMAIL

Secretary - Clifton; Phone; 0428 268 600 EMAIL

Treasurer - Charly; Phone; 9206 4589 EMAIL

Registrar - Chris; Phone; 9246 3189 EMAIL

Editor - Tony; Phone; 9342 3799 EMAIL

P.O. Box 236, Kingsway, WA 6065.


Please Note!!

Change of meeting venue & start time

Next Meeting

Will be held, Thursday February 15th 2018, 7.30pm, at the St. Lukes School at Woodvale. This is on the corner of Whitfords Ave and Duffy Terrace, Woodvale. See map here
Visitors and New Members always welcome

Topic of the evening

Membership Fees- Couple/family $40. Single $27. (Includes Badge)
Renewal - Couple/family $25. Single $20. Junior $7

Results of the WJOS Meeting January 2017

George Webber Memorial Trophy;

Aerides Lawrencea X Vanda Krailer White. Gerda & Charly

Popular Vote Open;

Rhynchovola Jimminy Cricket 'Super Bug'. Bruce

Popular Vote Novice;

Wilsonara Tropic Breeze 'Everglades' John P

Floral Art: None

Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society Calendar for
Please note that the time for set-up of displays between 8 & 9 am on the Thursday morning of the display. Plants can still be brought in after that time if it is more convenient.

Feb 24 - 25, Garden Clubs & Soc Fair, Sth Perth Community Centre
May 5 - 6 - NDOS Show Kalamunda
May 12 - 13th 2018 Ocean Keys Shopping Centre Display
June 1 - 2nd WJOS Show, Northlands (To be confirmed)
July 7 - 8th WJOS Orchid & Garden Fair, John Septimus Roe High School, Mirrabooka Ave.
August 4- 5 Inter Soc OD&W/S Morley Sport and Recreation Centre, Wellington Street, Morley
August 11-12th NDOS Show, Aranmore Leederville
September 15 - 16 Combined Orchid Show - To be advised.
October. 7 - WJOS Workshop. To be advised.

Floral Arrangement
For February - Mid Summer Madness
For March - Mad March Hare



Pots - If you require orchid pots from the society, please ring John on 0418 854 732 and he will bring them to the next meeting


Meeting Start time

Please take note!!
The meetings of the Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society now take place at St Luke's School at Woodvale, Whitfords Ave and Duffy Terrace, with the entrance to the parking area being on Duffy Tce
Also.... The meeting will start at 7.30

Please make sure that your orchids arrive by 7.15 so that they can be entered, placed on the trestles so the meeting can start without all the talking at the back of the hall and the judges can get on with their work.
Please be considerate of others.


The World Orchid Conference comes to Perth

Hello all orchid enthusiasts;

As you are now aware, Perth has been provisionally selected as the host city for the 24th World Orchid Conference & Show to be staged in 2023.

This significant event is something which WAROO and our member clubs strategically identified and have worked towards over the past 10 years or so.
The numerous WAOS and other major events (such as the AOC Conference & Show in 2012) staged during this time have been essential stepping stones towards winning a WOC bid.
Now that we have achieved our dream, we have 6 years in which to organise ourselves and plan and present this prestigious event.

To realise this once in a lifetime opportunity, WAROO needs all orchid clubs and their members to be involved.
To start the process, all clubs and members are invited to attend an Open Day & Workshop Saturday on 3rd March at the Bentley Community Centre, Nyamup Way, Bentley, starting at 9am.

When; Saturday 3rd March 2018

Venue; Bentley Community Centre. Nyamup Way, Bentley. (Just off Manning Road)

Timing; 9am until 12 noon.

What to bring; a plate to share for morning tea and your views/thoughts and above all, your enthusiasm

Format for the morning;

9 – 9.30am; Presentation to members of the bid that was presented to the World Orchid Trust Selection Committee & questions on what it means for us

9.30am –10am; What we are doing, what needs to be done, and from you, what should we be doing that we haven’t thought of yet!

10am – 10.15am; Morning tea

10.15 - 11.30am; Open discussion and workshop (input from clubs/members on what we have done well and not so well in previous events. What we need to do for a WOC)

11.30 12 noon; wrap up and feedback.

12 noon close

Bruce Larson

Chair, WOC Bid Committee

We are keen to have as many orchid enthusiasts at this event as possible as we will need each and every one of you in September 2023 to make this a truly great event.

It would be appreciated if this could be publicised in your newsletter, and to members at your meetings.

To assist us with catering, it would also be appreciated if you were able to provide me with the approximate number of your members intending to participate.

Thanks you for your support.

Ken Jones


WA Regional Orchid Organization



Xmas in February

The Xmas in February was a huge success with around 50 + members from both WJOS & NDOS attending. A good time was had by all with the donation of all the sausages from one of the NDOS members. And very tasty they were too!!

The raffle was the usual big hit with all present as members vied for the best plants with some winners and some losers.

A huge THANKS to both Bruce & Kaye for allowing us to commandeer their back yard for the evening.


A common pest on many plants, these sap-sucking insects are often
noticed feeding in clusters on new plant growth. Here's how to control aphids organically without using toxic sprays.

Aphids are small (1/8 inch long), soft bodied, pear-shaped insects that may be green, yellow, brown, red or black in colour depending on
species and food source.

Generally adults are wingless, but some can grow wings, especially if populations are high. They have two whip-like antennae at the tip of the head and a pair of tube-like structures, called cornicles, projecting backward out of their hind end.

There are approximately 4,000 aphid species found throughout the world. Low to moderate numbers are usually not harmful to plants and rarely require aphid control.

However, heavy infestations will cause leaves to curl, wilt or yellow and stunted plant growth. A general decline in overall plant vigour will also be noticed.
Several species can transmit plant diseases, particularly viruses which they pass on during feeding.

Note: As they feed, aphids secrete large amounts of a sticky fluid known as honeydew. This sweet goo drips onto plants, attracting ants and
promoting a black sooty mould growth on leaves. Cars and lawn furniture that are under infested trees will also be covered with this sticky fluid.


The Orchid and Garden Fair that we are planning for the John Septimus Roe High School gymnasium in Mirrabooka Avenue is moving along quite well, with the venue booked for Friday evening from 4pm 6th July, (setup) Saturday 7th and Sunday 8th July, 9am to 4pm. The gymnasium is quite large with two full size basketball courts, a stage, kitchen and toilets.
The stage can be used for storing sale orchids with the space just in front for our sales area. Teas and coffees can be served with light refreshments from the small kitchen. It is planned to have one large raffle with donated goods. (look out Bunnings)
The plan is to invite other non orchid societies to join us and bill it as a general gardening event, not just orchids. The South Eastern Orchid Society has been doing this kind of event for some years with much success. It is up to us to do the best we can to make this a great event, with an eye to making it an annual event on our calendar.


Mealybugs are about 3-7mm long and cause similar damage to aphids - distorted leaves, weakened plants covered with shiny honeydew, and sooty mould. Mealybugs are covered in a whitish 'mealy' wax, which helps retard the loss of water from their soft bodies. They generally prefer warm, humid, sheltered sites away from harsh environmental conditions and natural enemies.

Different species of mealybugs prefer different feeding sites. Some species feed in and under bark, some on the roots of pot plants while others feed on fruits, flowers or seed heads. The adults are slow-moving insects.

Mealybug populations can build up quickly. Similar to aphids, they feed by inserting their straw-like mouthparts into plant tissue. Feeding damage can be by direct removal of plant fluids and
nutrients, and/or by the excretion of toxic salivary compounds into plant tissue.

Australia has several mealybugs which are worldwide pests, the worst being the long-tailed mealybug (Pseudococcus longispinus) which is present in Western Australia and the Citrophilous mealybug (Pseudococcus calceolariae), not yet identified in WA.

Most mealybugs have a number of often overlapping generations per year. Their development is dependent on temperature.
Temperatures of about 25°C and a high relative humidity are optimum for mealybugs and, like aphids, their populations reach peaks in spring and autumn.

Eggs can be laid singly or in clusters, and female long-tailed
mealybugs have been recorded laying as many as 200 eggs in a lifetime. Egg clusters are usually embedded in a cocoon of waxy filaments.

After hatching, the juveniles (crawlers) search for suitable feeding sites in sheltered areas. Crawlers can be dispersed by wind and progress through five moults before reaching adulthood. For males, the last juvenile stage pupates in a silk cocoon, and emerges as a winged adult. Adult males do not feed, having no mouthparts - their sole purpose is to mate with females.

Control - Because mealybugs have high reproductive capacities and multiple generations in a year, they have the potential to become resistant to pesticides very quickly.
Fortunately mealybugs can be controlled using 'soft' methods including biological agents and low-toxicity pesticides, most of which are readily available to the home gardener.

Good control of mealybugs can be achieved by releasing parasitic wasps such as Leptomastix dactylopii and Anagyrus fusciventris into the infested area. The wasps lay their eggs into young mealybugs: on hatching, the wasp larvae feed on the internal fluids of the mealybugs. The mealybugs are usually killed when the wasp larvae pupate.
Predatory ladybird beetles also attack many species of mealybugs, including the long-tailed mealybug, although they don't match the effectiveness of the parasitic wasps in terms of control.

Predatory insects (and mites) are sold by a number of Australian companies. For your nearest supplier refer to the Australasian Biological Control Association.

Sprays with horticultural soap will desicate and suffocate the insects and horticultural oil will smother the insects but these organic products should not be used when the weather is above 32°C as plant leaves can burn. Alternative products are the low toxicity, residual chemicals imidacloprid and acetamiprid.


Magnesium Sulphate

I have been growing orchids for about the last fifteen years, most of this time as a hobby. Some years ago I became interested in the metabolism of these fascinating plants. As I was a doctor I suppose this was natural. Of later years i have become involved in the hybridisation and mericloning of orchids. Here in Australia we have the ideal climate for growing many different kinds of orchids without a great deal of hassle. As regards the use of magnesium sulphate: In the original experiment I used twelve seedlings of the same cross and as near as possible all equal is size. They were all grown together in different pots but the same compost, this was a completely neutral mixture. All were given exactly the same treatment. Six seedlings were treated with magnesium sulphate. This was sprinkled on the top of the compost in granular form and watered in. Plants were given the granules every month.

At the end of twelve months there was a very significant difference in the two lots of seedlings. Those treated with magnesium sulphate were about twice as large, with good bulb formation. Eventually they also flowered about a year earlier than the six controls. We attempted to find the maximum dose. What we did find was that almost unlimited quantities of magnesium sulphate could be given and the lethal dose was never determined. I think that the reason for this is that the magnesium sulphate is very soluble and as watering every day is essential here in the summer the salt was leached out very rapidly.

At all events growth was certainly stimulated, and it was particularly evident that the leaves were greener and of greater texture whilst the roots also appeared thicker. We think, but have not proved scientifically that the magnesium is essential in the manufacture of chlorophyll hence the great difference in the colour of the leaves. This in turn would lead to the accelerated growth of the plant, the greenness of the leaves and as a result in a better plant.

There is no effect in the quality of the flowers produced though the plants do mature earlier. We also used magnesium sulphate on mature plants and apart from the increased greenness of the leaves and the production of a more robust plant there was no significant difference. I hope that I have been able to help you. As you probably know the culture of orchids in Australia is big business especially cymbidiums and we are now concentrating on this


The Report from the

Inter Society Display and Workshop
"Flowers, Fairytales & Fantasies"


A Note To Novice Growers
Please don't be afraid to bring along to the meetings, any orchids that you have in flower. Members will be more than willing to assist you in understanding how to improve your orchids. That is what the Society is all about. Our purpose is to help orchid growers, to help orchid growers
We are not there to ridicule or embarrass our newer members. Quite the opposite. We want to help you improve your orchids so that you can become better growers yourselves.



(January/February) by Trevor Burnett
The hot weathe
r will be in full swing during these months but I still only water 3 times a week. If the forecast is for very hot weather over 4 days I will increase watering to every 2nd day but always only in the morning.
Keep your additional shade in place if the plants are showing signs of yellowing as they are receiving more light than is required. If plants show any sign of burning add some extra shade for the next few months.
Any burning will cause a setback at this stage which will definitely affect our flowering season. If you have a variety of different size pots, you will need to ensure that the smaller pots do not dry out completely before watering. A simple solution to prevent the problem of some pots drying out more quickly is to double pot so the pots are all similar size. By this I mean placing the smaller pots into a larger pot which is filled with compost which encircles the small pot. This way all the pots end up drying out at the same rate.
Paphiopedilum growth should be promoted so keep the regular fertiliser program in place to ensure the growth mature ready for the flowering season ahead. Let’s get back to looking after our plants following the Christmas break, and resume regular routine checking of:
a. good air movement;
b. if growing in a glasshouse, misting will assist with maintaining humidity;
c. weekly fertilising;
d. not overcrowding our plants;
e. check for pests and treat if necessary;
f. keep area clean of dying leaves or material;
g. increase watering to 3 times a week or more often if plants have dried out;
h. check all plants to see if there are any signs of stress;
i. water in early morning before the sun is too high; and
j. watch and control your shading.



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Boisduval Scale - possibly the world's worst orchid pest

See all the pictures HERE

Reed Stem Epidendrums


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