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Link to Sales Sheets

 

"W.J.O.S. NEWS"

 

July

2020
Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society (Inc)

Website: http://members.iinet.net.au/~emntee/

Due to the Corona19 virus, we will undertake the following at our meetings
until further notice;

. Undertake a general clean of chairs/tables and door knobs/switches on
entry and during set for the meeting.

. Provide hand sanitiser for all members/attendees to the meeting

. All attendees to sign/write their names into our attendance book

. The Chair will remind all attendees to social distance and use sanitisers
provided or their own.

. Ask any attendee not feeling 100% to go home. This point will be made in
the newsletter sent to all members, ie; do not attend if not feeling well.

. Kitchen helpers to wear gloves etc

. Polystyrene cups will be used for tea/coffee. Not very environmentally
friendly but at least will keep us safe.

. Members may still bring a plate to share.

. Equipment, chairs etc to be cleaned on close of the meeting when being
stored away.

Please assist in this as we all need to be safe.

**********************************************

THE RESULTS OF THE JUNE MEETING

George Webber Memorial Trophy

Onc. Ursula Isler'#18'
Gillian M

Popular vote in the open section

Rlc. Shinfong Unique
John H

Popular vote in the novice section

Cattleya Unknown Alex

FLORAL ART

Theme : Bursting Out Gillian M

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President - Tony; Phone; 0481 867 471 EMAIL

Secretary - Lynne; Phone; 9448 5840 EMAIL

Treasurer - Charly; Phone; 0409 005 606 EMAIL

Registrar - Chris; Phone; 9246 3189 EMAIL

Editor - Tony; Phone; 0481 867 471 EMAIL

P.O. Box 236, Kingsway, WA 6065.

Next Meeting - Will be held on Thursday July 16th @ 7.30pm, at the St. Lukes School at Woodvale, corner of Whitfords Ave and Duffy Terrace, Woodvale.

See map here
Visitors and New Members always welcome

Membership Fees- Couple/family $47. Single $31. (Includes Badge)
Renewal - Couple/family $25. Single $20. Junior $7


TOPIC OF THE EVENING:
"What's wrong with my orchid?"

We encourage members to bring along some of their orchids with problems that
they do not understand. Our more enlightened members are always happy to
share their knowledge with beginners, so please help to make this a success

with your query plants.

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Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society Calendar for 2020

July 18 - 19 (Winter) Northern Orchid & Garden Fair, John Cancelled
Septimus Roe School, Mirrabooka Ave, Mirrabooka.

September 19 - 20 Spring Orchid Fair, Arranmore College, corner Oxford & Franklin St Leederville

October 10th & 11th (Spring) Northern Orchid & Garden Fair, John Septimus Roe School, Mirrabooka Ave, Mirrabooka.

23 - 24 October WJOS - North Beach Display - North Beach Shopping Centre, corner West Coast Dr & Nth Beach Rd (This display was postponed from May
)

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CLUB NEWS

Discussion was held at the WJOS Committee meeting as to the date when new members need to renew their membership. It was decided that any person joining the club after the June meeting will have their membership extended for 15 months and renewal not needed until October the following year.

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The coronavirus has been causing much angst throughout the world and has
been the reason for the Northern Orchid & Garden Fair for July being
cancelled by the management of the John Septimus Roe Community School at
Mirrabooka.

Plans are still going ahead for the Spring Orchid Fair at Aranmoor School in
Leederville, 19th & 20th September and the Northern Orchid & Garden Fair at
the John Septimus Roe Community School, Mirrabooka.

It was sad to see the July show cancelled but we must remember that there
are many folks in the world much worse off than we are here in Western
Australia.

**********************************************

The coronavirus has been causing much angst throughout the world and has been the reason for the Northern Orchid & Garden Fair for July being cancelled by the management of the John Septimus Roe Community School at Mirrabooka.

Plans are still going ahead for the Spring Orchid Fair at Aranmoor School in Leederville, 19th & 20th September and the Northern Orchid & Garden Fair at the John Septimus Roe Community School, Mirrabooka.

It was sad to see the July show cancelled but we must remember that there are many folks in the world much worse off than we are here in Western Australia.

**********************************************

THE RESULTS OF THE JUNE MEETING

NOVICE SECTION

Laelinae Alliance

15e

1st C. Unknown
Alex

Oncidineae

20a

1st Onc. sotoanum
Lauren

Australian Native Epiphyte

22b

1st Den. (Rutherford Starburst x Regal Affair 'RM') x (Aussie Parade x Hilda
Poxon)

{This is now registered as Den. Australian Tiger x Den. Hunter Affair}
'Botanic Ridge' Jane T

**********************************************

We had a great turnout for the June meeting which was our first meeting back after the corona19 virus lockdown. Some 30 odd members enjoyed an interesting talk by Tony Bud about what makes a good orchid judging wise. You can see it all here.....

http://members.iinet.net.au/~emntee/What_The_Judges_are_Looking_For.pdf

And many thanks to the members who dug deep and helped out with the cleaning up and clearing the tables and chairs. It all made for a great welcome back meeting.

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Catch up with WJOS on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/858558147902909/

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Here is an article on Growing Orchids in Shoes - in both Word and PDF

http://members.iinet.net.au/~emntee/Orchids_in_Shoes.docx
http://members.iinet.net.au/~emntee/Orchids_in_Shoes.pdf

**********************************************
Charly's Article on his Bulbo medusae

http://members.iinet.net.au/~emntee/Bulbophyllum_medusae.htm

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Bruce's Growing Cattleyas in Perth

Growing_Cattleyas_in_Perth-1.docx

**********************************************

http://members.iinet.net.au/~emntee/An_introduction_to_the_Genus_Masdevallia.pdf

**********************************************

Pots - If you require orchid pots or fertiliser from the society, please ring John on 0418 854 732 and he will bring them to the next meeting

*******************************

New Club Badges
Clifton has arranged for us to have some new club badges which are very nice and a huge advance on our old ones.
(Not to mention our Very old ones)
The cost is $11 each and current members can acquire one for this cost if they wish. New member rates will necessarily change because of this.
New membership fees will be…….
 
Membership Fees- Couple/family $47. Single $31. (Includes Badge)Renewal - Couple/family $25. Single $20. Junior $7

*******************************

Meeting Start time

Members Please take note!!
The meeting starts at 7.30. Please make sure that your orchids arrive and are entered by 7.15.
Please be considerate of others

*****************************

THE RESULTS OF THE JUNE MEETING

OPEN SECTION

Laelinae Alliance

1a

1st E. boothiana
Lynne B

2nd L. anceps
Ray T

1b

1st Rlc. Shinfong Unique
John H

2nd L. Hsinying Pub 'Albo Sanguinea'
John P

1e

1st C. Unknown
Gillian M

2nd Cty. Atrowalker
Bruce

3rd E. Sunburst
Lynne B

Paphiopedilum

3c

1st Paph. Kobayashi Kenzo
Ray T

2nd Paph. Unknown
Charly

3e

1st Paph. Unknown
Charly

Oncidinae

6d

1st Onc. Ursula Isler '#18'
Gillian M

Vandeae

7a

1st Rhy. gigantea Red
Charly

Australian Native Epiphyte

8b

1st Den. Carlingford
Gillian M

2nd Den. Hilda Poxon
John P

3rd Den. Hilda Poxon 'Wonderwest'
Ray T

Species

10b

1st Bulb. longissimum
Charly

2nd Ctsm. fimbriatum
Mike & Jill

3rd Bulb. fascinator
Mike & Jill

Hybrids

11b

1st Fdk. After Dark 'SVO'
Ray T

3rd Ctsm. expansum x Orchidglades 'Yokohama'
Mike & Jill

Seedlings

12

1st Den. Starsheen 'Botanic Fireworks' x tetragonum gigantum 'Non's Ark'
John P

*****************************

The Importance of Water and Fertilizer.

http://www.waorchids.iinet.net.au/The_Importance_of_Water_&_Fertilizer.pdf

*******************************

Ezi-Gro Orchids
76 Evandale Rd, Darch
Western Australia
6065

Ezi-Gro Orchids are now CLOSED on Sundays

**********************************************

Paphiopedilim Culture Notes for July by Trevor


With the cooler months upon us, careful watering to keep the plants moist but never leave them wet is important. Always water in the morning to ensure the plants are dry by nightfall.

I personally reduce my watering further to once every 14 days but may give additional watering if the weather is fine and sunny for 6 to 8 days in a row. Hopefully, a good proportion of our plants will be showing flower spikes.

Continue staking plants using wire, meat skewers or small thin bamboo stakes. This time of the year you start to enjoy the fruits of your previous 12 months work with some of the early flowers now being fully developed and in full bloom.

If you are missing out on a great display starting to appear, now is the time to review your culture over the past 12 months and make any necessary changes to insure a great show next year. The smaller un-flowered plants will still require a require fertiliser on a fortnightly or monthly basis to keep the growth moving forward at ¼ to ½ strength. If you intend to get the plants ready for the various shows, this is the time to spend cleaning up the plants by removing any dead leaves and clean any dust from the leaves.

Growers may use different methods of making their plants leaves look fresh and glistering by the use of white oil but I personally believe a little common milk with water wiped over the leaves does a wonderful job without that oily look. At this time of year most growers do not water plants overhead due to possible marking of flowers for shows. It is sound practice if time permits.

I do water overhead but after watering I ensure the pouch is emptied of water and excess water is not left on the remainder of the plant. This can be easily achieved by gently tapping the flower.

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Boisduval Scale - possibly the world's worst orchid pest

See all the pictures HERE

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Reed Stem Epidendrums
by John P

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A message from The Water Corporation

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Members please take note: We do not have these terrible insects in WA and we do not want them. Note the colours, black and orange and keep a lookout for them. We hope you don't find any but if you do, please contact the WA Ag Dept.

See the article below

Dendrobium Beetle
Jeff Howes

If you do not have these beetles that originated in Queensland on your Australian native Dendrobium orchids read no further and count yourself lucky.

These orange and black beetles grow to about 10 mm long and can fly. In summer months, the adult beetle eats the new leaves of orchids.

They then lay eggs in the soft, new stems and the larva a soft white maggot like grub hatches, then eats and destroy the stem and growing tip.

At their worst, they will destroy all the new seasons' growth on your orchids.

You can control by spraying an insecticide when you see them. The easier and more challenging way is to sneak up on them (there is always two of them), place your hand slowly below the leaves being eaten by the buggers and then, with your other hand try to grab them - if you miss, they will hopefully drop into your other hand as their defence is to drop to the ground when disturbed, now with a smile on your face, crush them.

Control: After I finished this article, I was talking to an orchid grower about how he controls these rotten beetles and he said I should spray with 1/2 strength Carbryl every four weeks. I will try this and see if it works for me.

**********************************

Mas. Copper Dancer Owned by Richard & Jane

An introduction to the Genus Masdevallia by Ken Jones

Masdevallia - gems of the orchid world

One of the most unique and diverse genera, displaying striking colours, that come in many shapes and sizes. A complex Genus that can be found across several climatic regions.
Discovered 1779 in Peru. Genus published 1794. Masdevallia uniflora (type species) published 1794. Approximately 600
species described. Where do these orchids come from?
Masdevallia species can be found from Southern Mexico through
Central America to Southern Brazil and Bolivia. The majority come from the cool cloud forests and alpine regions of the
Andes, with some growing on the snowline. A lesser number of species occur in warmer lowlands. Masdevallia species have been hybridised for more than 100 years.

The Masdevallia species Masdevallia uniflora was first described by Ruiz and Pavón in 1794. European collectors competed to acquire these 'new world' orchids, often paying ridiculous prices for 'rare' orchids. As a result, many thousands of plants collected for sale perished on the long sea trip back to Europe, and if they survived the journey, in both botanical and in hobbyist collections due to the poor understanding of how these orchids grew. As a result of rampant over-collection, several species became extinct in their natural habitat, and now can only be found in collections. The Masdevallia hybrids Masdevallia hybrids started to appear in the 1880s with Masdevallia Fraseri (Masdevallia coccinea x ignea) one of the earliest to be registered. Approximately 1,000 hybrids were registered by 2003. Significantly more hybrids have been registered in the last 17 years. The hybrids are generally more amenable to cultivation.

Masdevallia hybrids; There are many striking Masdevallia hybrids that can be grown by experienced orchid growers without the need for expensive climate control. Many of these hybrids include warmth tolerant species.

Mt Beenak Orchids (Clive and Agi Halls) are nationally accredited and can send plants to WA. (https://mtbeenakorchids.com.au/)

Masdevallia habitat; Masdevallia orchids are all found in tropical and sub-tropical zones, so the culture for both species and to a lesser extent hybrids needs to take account of the key features of these localities. They are:

Humidity - many Masdevallia orchids come from high altitude cloud forests where high humidity is always present.

Air movement - these habitats, even in lower primary rainforests have constant air movement.

Light - Masdevallia species inhabit the lower areas of the forest, often growing terrestrially or lithophytically. Species that might be more
exposed to light due to the sparse vegetation of mist forests are shielded from intense light by the ever-present clouds.

Temperature - the majority of Masdevallia species and their hybrids come from habitats that are best described as cool temperate. These locations have relatively small diurnal variation across the year.
Cool-growing Masdevallia are most vigorous when grown with day temperatures below 20°C and night temperatures above 10°C-12°C. Higher day temperature for short periods can be tolerated provided high humidity (70%-80%) is provided. For intermediate-growing
Masdevallia, day temperature 20°C-27°C and night temperature
10°C-14°C is recommended.

Water - Masdevallia habitats are generally in areas of high rainfall, and as they are mostly distant from industry, the water is generally neutral pH, devoid of dissolved salts and free of industrial contamination.

Masdevallia Culture in Perth. To grow and flower Masdevallia orchids in Perth, a glasshouse or vivarium with some degree of climate control is required. The genus can be grown successfully in shadehouse
conditions in Albany. Summer humidity (70%-80%), high shade and constant air movement are essential. Rainwater, or reverse osmosis water is beneficial. Masdevallia orchids do not tolerate higher fertiliser concentration enjoyed by some orchids.

Quarter to half strength fertiliser application once or twice a month is adequate. Suitable potting media includes sphagnum moss, fine bark/perlite, coco or natural peat. If you can maintain high summer humidity, slab mounts of hardwood, natural cork or tree fern are also
applicable. Constant air movement even during the night is essential.

Plants should be dry by late afternoon Heavy shading during
summer (70%) is required to prevent leaf damage, although this genus, like other orchids needs light throughout the day.

Masdevallia orchids are very susceptible to sap-sucking insects including hard and soft scale, mealy bug.

Masdevallia orchids are also susceptible to several fungal pathogens. Active prevention strategies including air space between plants and prophylactic fungicide application is recommended.

Regular repotting to avoid media breakdown and resulting root loss is also recommended.

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