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"W.J.O.S.
NEWS"
August 2018
Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society
(Inc)
Website: http://members.iinet.net.au/~emntee/
President
- Tony; Phone; 9342 3799 EMAIL
Secretary - Clifton; Phone; 0428 268 600 EMAIL
Treasurer - Charly;
Phone; 9206 4589 EMAIL
Registrar - Chris; Phone; 9246 3189 EMAIL
Editor - Tony; Phone; 9342 3799 EMAIL
P.O. Box 236, Kingsway,
WA 6065.
Please
Note!!
Change
of meeting venue & start time
Next Meeting
Will
be held, Thursday August 16th, 7.30pm,
at the St.
Lukes School at Woodvale. This is
on the corner of Whitfords Ave and Duffy Terrace, Woodvale.
See
map here
Visitors and New Members
always welcome
Topic of the evening
Dendrobium speciosum and its hybrids - Norm Stockton
Membership
Fees- Couple/family $40. Single $27. (Includes Badge)
Renewal - Couple/family $25. Single $20. Junior $7
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Results of the WJOS Meeting July
2018
George Webber Trophy Winner:
Rhy. gigantae Charly
Popular Vote In The Open:
Bulb. Elizabeth
Ann Buckleberry Charly
Popular Vote In The Novice:
Ctt. Amaroo John
P
Floral Art: Theme:
Mid Winter Orchids:
Gillian M
All this months
pix by Phil
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Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society
Calendar for 2018
Please note that the time for set-up of
displays between 8 & 9 am on the Thursday morning of the display.
Plants can still be brought in after that time if it is more convenient.
September 15 - 16 Combined Orchid Show - Aranmore College, Oxford
St Leederville
October. 7 - WJOS Workshop. Osborne Park Showgrounds. Royal St.
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Please return the
annual trophies to Denny.
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Floral Arrangement
For August - A Floral Cascade
For September - Curly Whirly
For October-Oktoberfest
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CLUB
NEWS
Pots - If you require
orchid pots from the society, please ring John on 0418 854 732
and he will bring them to the next meeting
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Venue Lights -
The society is in discussions with the school to improve the lighting
around the hall. More to come about this.
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The society will
need someone to put their hand up to be secretary next year as
Clifton is standing down. Many thanks Clifton.
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Meeting Start time
Please take note!!
The meetings of the Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society now take
place at St Luke's School at Woodvale, Whitfords Ave and Duffy
Terrace, with the entrance to the parking area being on Duffy
Tce
Also.... The meeting will start at 7.30
Please make sure that your orchids
arrive by 7.15 so that they can be entered, placed on the trestles
so the meeting can start without all the talking at the back of
the hall and the judges can get on with their work.
Please be considerate of others.
********************************************
Many thanks to
Lynne for chairing the General Meeting in the absence of the president
and both vice presidents. A very rare occurrence.
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Much fun was had
be all on the bus trip to Tropical Colours and Flora Plant. Many
members came home with lighter wallets.
********************************************
HOT OFF THE PRESS!!
The Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid Society ran 2nd at the Inter Society
Orchid Display & Workshop!! The big winner this year was the
Albany Orchid Society, with the Species Orchid Society of WA winning
the display prize.
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Results of the July meeting
2018
Novice Section
Laelinae Alliance
15e
1st Ctt. Amaroo John P
Cymbidium
16d
2nd Cym. Unknown Gillian C
16e
1st Cym. Karen Jean 'Icicle' Gillian C
Paphiopedilum
17b
1st Paph.Leeanum John P
2nd Paph. Varuna Lynne G
Dendrobeae
18b
2nd Den. Unknown Gillian C
Oncidinae
20c
1st Onc. Pacific Sunrise 'Hakalu' John P
2nd Onc. Twinkle 'Fragrant Fantasy' Lynne G
20d
1st Dgmra . Winter Wonderland 'White Fairy' Lynne G
Australian Native
22b
1st Den. Splish Splash x Regal Hilda Rockstar John P
2nd Den.(Helen Wong x Zip) x Renee x (Victorian Regency x Hilda
Poxon) John P
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Northern Orchid
and Garden Fair 7th / 8th July 2018
Results of the Combined Orchid Exhibition (NDOS and WJOS)
Grand Champion Den. Rungroj 'Splash' Neil and Barbara
Reserve Champion Phal. Champion Lightening Bruce
Champion Cymbidium Cym. Gentle Touch 'Bon Bon' Steve
Champion Paphiopedilum Paph. Leeanum John P
Champion Laelinae Alliance Rlc. Dream Trader Rosa
Champion Phalaenopsis Phal. Champion Lightening Bruce
Champion Australian Native Den. Annes Rainbow Gillian
Champion Oncidinae Wls. Ursula Isler Gillian
Champion Dendrobium Den. Rungroj 'Splash' Neil and Barbara
Champion Vandaceous Rhynchostylis gigantea Ray
Best Any Other Genera Ctcm. Black Jade x christyanum Neil &
Barbara
Best Seedling in Show Zygopetalum Keith I
Best Species in Show Den. tetragonium. John P
Best Specimen in Show Paph. insigne var. sanderae Beth
Best Cymbidium in Novice Cym. Unknown Clifton
Best Paphiopedilum in Novice Paph. Leeanum John P
Best Laelinae Alliance in Novic Ctt. Amarod John P
Best Australian Native in Novice Den. Hilda Poxon Beth
Best Orchid in Novice Paph. Leeanum John P
Best Floral Art An Aussie Theme Clifton
*************************************
Growing of Bulbophyllum
Orchids, by Charly
Continued from last month.
Applying water
For hand watering, I use a 5-litre pressure pump (from Bunnings).
However as the nozzle was too fine for my purpose, I have enlarged
the opening with a 3mm drill bit. I wanted lots of water since
the Bulbophyllum lobbii baskets (40cm x 40cm) need almost
1 litre of water.
As I water very early in the morning, (about at 6:30am) the water
temperature is not very friendly for Bulbophyllum orchids.
The optimum temperature seems to be 25°C to 30°C (no higher).
To achieve this, I put about 4 litres of water in my container
and then add about 1 litre of boiling water from a kettle, checking
with a thermometer that the temperature is between 25°C and
30°C. This aspect of watering is very important. Cold water
on a new leaf tip or flower spike can turn this very tender growth
black and kill it overnight (see photo below).
This has happened to me more than once since I began growing Bulbophyllum
orchids. However, once I increased the water temperature to 25°C
to 30°C it did not recur. This also applies to seedlings.
Using cold water, I experienced a 90% mortality rate. Since using
warm water, the mortality rate has decreased to just about zero
(not perfect but close).
There is one more benefit from using warm water. Due to the water-holding
capacity of the sphagnum moss that I use (see later notes on media)
and the strong air circulation throughout the night, the water
in the moss gets very cool.
This is not a desired
environment for the Bulbophyllum roots. So, when I water
in the morning I expel the cold water and replace it with warm
water. As I am watering from the top of the basket or pot, I place
my hand underneath to feel the cold water running out being replaced
by warm water. It's like waking them up with a nice warm shower.
You wouldn't chose to have a cold shower on a cold winter's morning!
How often do I water?
Last but not least. Salt is the enemy for all of our orchids.
While I constantly try to avoid salt building up in my mix, this
cannot always be avoided. Salt dissolves easier and faster in
warm water than in cold water. So to my way of thinking, having
warm water may help to flush out the accumulated salt from the
moss. For this reason, I water
almost every day. Not because my Bulbophyllum orchids need
water every day, but to keep them warm and flush out any salt
at the same time.
Some believe if you water your orchids in the morning, they will
dry out by evening, a requirement for growing many species of
orchids. However, in my experience this does not apply to Bulbophyllum
orchids. I have found that you can water your plants at any time.
They won't hold it against you, if you have the right conditions
and you use warm water. It is also a tremendous help to your Bulbophyllum
orchids if you stand your pot into a shallow dish with 1 or 2
cm of water in it.
I do not seasonally change my watering regime - I have the same
regime year round.
Fertilizing
Every package or container of fertiliser includes instructions
as to how much you should use. I tend to ignore most of it, because
none of it gives me the information I need and that is - HOW MUCH
SALT IS IN MY WATERING CONTAINER WHEN I FERTILISE MY PLANT? How
do I determine that?
My EC (Electrical Conductivity) meter measures the salt content
in the water. Before adding any chemicals or fertiliser, the reading
for my rainwater is 0.22 when in a perfect world, it would be
zero. When the rain runs off my roof it picks up salts. .22 is
an acceptable level of impurities as the recommended maximum salt
level for our orchids is 0.80.
I can therefore add fertilizer to my 5 litre container until the
EC meter gives a reading of 0.80. However, some fertilisers can
significantly change the pH because they are acidic or basic.
My fertilizing regime for the months of November and December
was:
01/11/17 Calcium Nitrate 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
05/11/17 Bill's Best 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
09/11/17 Omegazyme 1.5ml/L pH adjustment 6.5ml
13/11/17 Humibossta 0.5ml/L 2.5ml
7/11/17 Ezi-Root 10ml/per 5Litre
21/11/17 Epsom Salt 4grams/ per 5 Litre
25/11/17 Hygenseaessentials 3ml
29/11/17 Calcium Nitrate 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
03/12/17 Bill's Best 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
07/12/17 Omegazyme 1.5ml/L pH adjustment 6.5ml
11/12/17 Humibossta 0.5ml/L 2.5ml
15/12/17 Ezi-Root 10ml/per 5Litre
19/12/17 Epsom Salt 4grams/ per 5 Litre
23/12/17 Hygenseaessentials 3ml
27/12/17 Calcium Nitrate 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
31/12/17 Bill's Best 1 level Tea Spoon/5 Litre
(Note-1 teaspoon = approx. 4 grams or 5 millitres)
From my list of fertilisers you can see that most of the amounts
are very small but I fertilize every 4th day. Before fertilising,
water first or you can risk root burn. The reason for my rotation
of the fertiliser available is simply the fact that I do not trust
the chemical content labelling on the containers. By rotating
I even out any inconsistency in the labelling
Potting Bulbophyllum Orchids
What is a happy Bulbophyllum and
what is a sad one?
There are 3 things to look out for to determine if your Bulbophyllum
is healthy or struggling.
*The main indicator is the pseudobulb itself. If it is plump and
full - it's good.
*If the pseudobulb is shrivelled, take it out from the pot and
look at the roots. The roots will tell you if it can be saved
or not. If the roots are dark to black then they are dead or dying.
You need light coloured roots
*The leaves: Are they shiny or dull looking? The front leaf should
look shiny or else something could be wrong. If the back leaves
are dull that could simply be aging.
What are front and back leaves?
The front leaves are the newly grown ones (youngest), the back
leaves are the first grown or the oldest ones.
Example of a good root system
I was given this Bulbophyllum
kubahense with one good root about 1 cm long (on the right
pseudobulb), at about the end of April in 2017. As you can see
the left pseudobulb was shrivelled and the roots were black indicating
that this part of the plant was dying. Did it survive? Yes! The
left leaf died soon after, but the right leaf did open properly.
At the end of October 2017 I did
a check and found that the roots had grown back to a point where
I was unable to pull it out of the moss. It may take another 6
months before it is back to its normal growing cycle because Bulbophyllum
kubahense is a slow growing plant. Never give up; even with
one tiny root, your plant can be saved in the right condition.
 Two
leaves have grown out of the pot. What should I do? This is a
typical situation where parts of the plant are happily growing
in moss and others rambling out of moss. Notice the difference
in root growth (photo to the right).
You can see about 3 cm long roots on the rhizome and about 7cm
long roots where the roots were in the moss. If the moss is still
in good condition do not remove it, this way the plant will continue
growing without pausing.
 A
plastic pipe will be its new home. I cut a 100 mm wide pipe in
half lengthwise, then take my heat-gun warm the ends and bend
it up at the end and drilled some holes in the bottom. Put some
moss in the bottom of the pipe, plant on top, more moss on top
and done.
This plant decided to go walkabout.
(picture to right).
However, what is interesting again is the difference in root growth,
out of moss and in moss.
In the photo left , you can see
a much larger root grows in the middle of the rhizome, where the
Bulbophyllum expanded into the second container, compared
to the roots as it comes out of the first container, where it
did not get much water as it was not in the sphagnum moss.
The photograph on the right illustrates
a wrong choice of pot. The roots are coming out of the pot because
they are not getting enough water.
I carefully cut the roots free of the pot avoiding damaging the
roots, so that I am able to remove the plant and repot in a bigger
pot (Pic. below left )
The moss also still looks ok,
so put more donuts in a bigger pot and fill in the sides. Now
the new leaves will have more room and the roots will get more
water. This plant should improve.
If the plant is small or the roots
are short then at times use old meat or sausage trays and only
use larger pots when the roots have grown longer.
Moss, Bark and Mounting
While you can grow Bulbophyllum in either bark or sphagnum
moss. I grow all of mine in only moss, as it holds water much
longer than bark - up to one week. While bark is cheaper I consider
moss to be better. You will see the difference when it has been
repotted in moss compared to a plant in bark. I have had a greater
result growing Bulbophyllum in moss. Removing moss from
the fine Bulbophyllum roots is a breeze while removing
them from bark is almost impossible. The roots stick to the bark
like s*#%* to a blanket and getting them apart without damaging
them (the roots) is impossible.
The other thing which comes to
my mind is the absorption of the fertiliser. With bark the plants
absorb less fertiliser than with moss. Hence if I ever have to
miss a watering day, then it would be always the day after fertilising.
Why? So that the roots get more food for another extra day.
When I started growing Bulbophyllum, mounting them was
on my mind. I collected nice driftwoods and they looked terrific.
The only thing they didn't do was grow  well.
After two years I came to the
conclusion something was wrong (I must be a slow learner). I did
try three on fern tree slabs.
But within four months the tips of the leaves on one plant started
to get yellow. So what happened? The first plant on a piece of
driftwood simply did not get enough water. To make a mounted plant
grow like the ones in moss, you would probably have to water them
more than once a day.
A second plant on the tree fern slab did grow better, however
again within four months yellow leaves started to appear. A salt
build-up was the cause. The only way to rectify that was to take
it off the tree fern slab, though it was a 3-hour operation.
I still have one Bulbophyllum on a tree fern slab, but
the reason for that is, it's doing quite well and I am afraid
to take it off. It is Bulbophyllum phalaenopsis and in
very good condition, so I don't want to disturb it. The slab is
on a slight angle to hold more water.
Bill Thoms (see below) did mention to me that he is growing his
Bulbophyllum frostii on timber mounts. However, he will
make sure that the timber is horizontal and the timber has some
kind of hollow so that the timber holds some water.
At this time it's probably appropriate to add a quote from Bill's
book: 'If it's mounted on something that dries out quickly, such
as cork or hardwood, it doesn't stand a chance of reaching its
true potential'. He should know, after 40 odd years of growing
this genus.
Pests and Diseases
Fortunately so far I have not had any issues with pests or diseases.
However should I see some bugs, I would use Neem Oil. This is
a natural product from the seed of a tree from India. Neem works
by being absorbed into the plant and causing insects to stop eating
as they don't seem to like the taste. Mix with hot water and a
drop of Palmolive detergent to form a yellow milky solution and
apply to the plant. For any insects I would also use rubbing alcohol.
Apply full strength to the insects (DO NOT USE ON PAPHIOPEDILUM
BUDS). The other product I use to prevent fungal problems is Bravo
Weather Stik fungicide.
BioGro
What is BioGro is a question on many of my orchid colleague's
minds.
I have used BioGro on my Orchids since February 2018 and the results
are outstanding. Basically, BioGro is an organic microbial enzyme
activator, which changes the soil or medium structure and improves
the nutrient uptake.
The microbes in BioGro will control
the pH to maintain a better nutrition uptake by the plants so
that the plants in turn will give sugars back to the microbes.
This is a symbiotic relationship and the microbes in BioGro will
do everything possible to ensure their own survival. They will
control their own environment. That is why your pH levels will
stabilise.
The microbes in BioGro also secrete plant growth enzymes that
are needed by the plants. These enzymes are secreted by the microbes
in nature. What the manufacturer has done is to increase the concentration
of this type of microbe in their product, and I believe is responsible
for the vigorous growth seen in my orchids.
BioGro prevents fungal diseases from cropping up by out competing
the pathogens for food and space. This is called Competitive Inhibition
and Exclusion.
BioGro will alter the pH and adapt itself to the PH in the medium
if necessary. The pH basically controls which species of microbes
are able to perform their tasks. What the manufacturer has done
is to include various species of microbes into BioGro that are
able to perform in a variety of pH conditions. For example, at
pH 5, species A will function for Nitrogen absorption, at pH 6,
species B will perform the nitrogen absorption function because
species A is now unable to perform. At pH 7, species C will take
over this role.
The microbes in BioGro will cease to function at about 60°C.
Anything above 45°C will severely degrade its performance.
So, never use hot water when you mix or use BioGro. At the other
end of the temperature range, the microbes in BioGro will go into
hibernation at 6°C. So, when you use BioGro in winter expect
little or no reaction.
Another requirement for the microbes to perform well is adequate
moisture in the growing medium. Moist to the touch is sufficient
for the microbes to perform. The optimum temperature is anything
from 16°c to 40°c.
BioGro is an Australian product that has been used very successfully
in countries including Papua New Guinea, Indonesia, Myanmar, Cambodia,
India, Germany and Nigeria. In these countries, BioGro has been
used in conjunction with field expertise and advice provided to
farmers, leading to better and more sustainable agricultural practices,
increased crop yields and reliance on natural ingredients to repel
pests.
This is Bulbophyllum Elizabeth
Ann 'Buckleberry'. It has flowered for me every year. Since February
this year it has grown 3 new leaves. This may not be unusual would
it not be for the fact that it had already grown 4 leaves from
August last year to December. 
In other words, it has grown 2
lots of leaves in one growing season.
The old leaves are 20cm long while the new one 25cm long.
 BioGro
also supposed to increase root growth. This appears to be the
case as can be seen on this plant of Bulbophyllum biflorum
If anybody is in need of any of
these products I am using please let me know, I can advise the
best place to purchase same or buy some on your behalf.
Charly
For further reading see
"Bulbophyllums"
The Incomplete Guide;
From A to Why,
by Bill Thoms
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Combined Orchid Show
A combined orchid society show is being planned for the 15th &
16th September which will include the Wanneroo/Joondalup Orchid
Society, Northern Districts Orchid Society, The Cymbidium Orchid
Club and The Species Orchid Society of WA
These four groups will take equal responsibility for the organising,
financing and running of the event and also take equal shares
in any profits that accrue.
The Australian Native Orchid Society and the Paphiopedilum Study
Group will take part this year, with small displays. The hope
is that in the long run, as many Western Australian orchid societies
as possible will become involved to make this an event to be remembered.
The long term plan is for this event to be held at the same time
each year leading into the World Orchid Conference in 2023. Hopefully
the public will come used to this and to expect an orchid event
to be held each year at that time.
There will be one sales table for orchids and orchid workshops
and talks for the general public will be arranged. This will not
be a repotting session for the public however. Those events can
become quite messy with diseased orchids and livestock being present
on peoples uncared for orchids, and they could spread to members
orchids so repotting will not be included.
A casserole night is planned for all the workers on the Saturday
night to increase the camaraderie and inclusiveness amongst various
orchid
society members.
There have been suggestions that the Inter Society Orchid Display
& Workshop could eventually be included as part of this event
but no decisions have been made regarding this at the present
time. All is up for future discussion.
As The Cymbidium Orchid Club has their own judges, they would
prefer to have a separate judging for their society. All other
judging would be carried out by the Orchid Judges Panel of WA.
A venue will be the Aranmore School Hall on Oxford St Leederville.
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Results of the July
Meeting
Open Section
Laelinae Alliance
1a
1st Enc. cochleatum Neil & Barbara
1b
1st Rlc. Shin Fong 'Unique' John
Paphiopedilum
3e
1st Paph. villosum Charly
Dendrobeae
4c
1st Den. Ekapol 'Splash' Neil & Barbara
Oncidinae
6b
1st Onc. Sweet Sugar Neal & Barbara
6d
1st Wils. Ursula Isler Gillian M
2nd Incdm. Popcorn 'Haruri' Gillian M
Vandeae
7a
1st Rhy. gigantea Charly
Australian Native Terrestrial
9a
1st Ptst. curta Gillian M
Species
10b
1st Bulb. fascinator Charly
2nd Bulb. maxillare Charly
Hybrids
11b
1st Bulb. Elizabeth Ann Buckleberry Charly
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The Report from
the
Inter
Society Display and Workshop
"Flowers, Fairytales & Fantasies"
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A Note To Novice
Growers
Please don't be afraid to bring along to the meetings, any orchids
that you have in flower. Members will be more than willing to
assist you in understanding how to improve your orchids. That
is what the Society is all about. Our purpose is to help orchid
growers, to help orchid growers
We are not there to ridicule or embarrass our newer members. Quite
the opposite. We want to help you improve your orchids so that
you can become better growers yourselves.
*******************************************
Our
Sponsors
1/45 Stockdale
Road, O'Connor,WA 6163
info@growthtechnology.com.au
Phone (08) 9331 3091
**********************************************
Ezi-Gro
Orchids
76 Evandale Rd, Darch
Western Australia
6065
Ezi-Gro Orchids
are now CLOSED on Sundays
**********************************************
Boisduval Scale
- possibly the world's worst orchid pest
See all the pictures
HERE
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Reed
Stem Epidendrums
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A
message from The Water Corporation
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PAPHIOPEDILUM CULTURE NOTES
(AUGUST/SEPTEMBER)
by
Trevor
The plants have expended considerable energy in producing and
supporting flowers. The early variety flowers will be now coming
to an end, and it is now time to look towards the task of repotting,
and replacement of the growing medium for the following reasons:
(a) The plant has grown too large for existing container. (b)
Potting material has broken down and must be replaced. (c) Plant
has naturally divided into two pieces. (d) Have purchased plants
from various sources in flower through the flowering season. Paphiopedilum
are repotted in a variety of growing media which are generally
bark or wood chip based. Most plants require repotting every second
year for those in larger pots, or more often if your orchids are
in smaller pots. Small plants respond to repotting more frequently
with increased growth. The watering regime of the grower will
influence mix selection. If you are a compulsive applier of water
and have difficulty in withholding watering, you will need a more
open mix to allow the plants to dry out a little between watering.
On the other hand a grower who is sparing with watering or is
away from home for periods may require a finer mix that is able
to maintain water longer. A finer mix can be obtained by using
the basic bark mix and adding some sphagnum moss to the mix. My
watering program comes back to 10 days between watering, and the
general mix that I use is: (a) four parts clean bark (b) one part
charcoal (c) one part polystyrene or perlite I add to the above
dolomite lime and slow release fertiliser Text books recommend
growing the plants in small pots but I personally do not like
bonsai, so I grow my plants in larger pots 130mm or 140mm, and
get good results. I believe you obtain larger growths which at
the end of the season results in larger and stronger flowers.
I also make a habit of repotting any new orchids purchased or
otherwise acquired into my own medium as soon as possible. Often,
growers purchase plants from many sources and leave them in the
existing mix as the mix looks fine. This is a trap as your watering
and fertilising program is developed for your mix and conditions,
and may not be suited to another's media choice. It is extremely
difficult to manage your collection for the best results if you
have a variety of mixes at various stages of decomposition.
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