Cymbidiums |
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Cymbidium orchids are hardy plants and are easy to grow. They like
the same conditions as we do, temperatures in the 20' s, humidity of
about 50% and shade in the summer. Most amateurs can grow orchids well
but have difficulty in flowering them. This usually can be overcome by
finding a position where the plant receives more light.
POSITION
Cymbidiums will tolerate full sun throughout the year, but it is best to
find a position where they will receive 50% shade in summer. Remember
too much shade will cause a decrease in flowering. 50% shade cloth is
the best to use otherwise a very open shaded tree. Don't crowd your
orchid plants, an empty pot of equal size should fit between.
WATERING
This will depend on the type of potting mix used, position of orchid and
atmospheric conditions, temperature and humidity. In winter, once or
twice a week is sufficient in the morning. In summer, water daily at
night. The night time watering is to reduce temperature. The drop in
temperature helps in the initiation of flower spikes. In heat wave
conditions watering may have to be done twice a day. When watering
thoroughly saturate the potting mix. Stop when water comes out of the
bottom of the pot.
FERTILIZING
Everyone has their own thoughts. I don't do any liquid fertilizing but
add slow release fertilizers to the potting mix. These include Nutricote
and Magamp at a concentration of two tablespoons to a two gallon bucket
of potting mix. If you want to liquid fertilize use half strength
Aquasol fortnightly during the warmer months of the year.
POTTING MIX
Again there are hundreds of combinations. Weathered pine bark with the
above slow release fertilizers gives excellent results. The pine bark
pieces should be about 10 to 15mm in size. Never pot an orchid into
sand, you will destroy its roots. The mix should be open. Water should
run straight through the potting mix.
REPOTTING
Pine bark breaks down and will retain the water in the pot. At this
stage, usually every two years the orchid should be potted into new mix.
Use plastic pots and don't over pot. Give the plant enough room for one
to two years only.
DIVDING
When the plant gets large the plant may have to be divided. When
dividing, make each piece have a minimum of three green bulbs. Best time
is after flowering or in spring. Try not to exceed pots of 250mm in
size, they become very heavy.
BACKBCILBS
The old bulbs without leaves can be individually potted. This is done
when repotting or dividing. These old bulbs usually will produce a new
shoot, which can be grown up to a flowering plant.
ORCHIDS IN SPIKE
A flower spike can be supported using a bamboo stake once it reaches
about 15cm high. Spikes appear at the base of new growths during
February to April. The flower spike at this stage looks like a fat
pencil. At this stage snail pellets should be put around the pot and on
top of the potting mix. When the flower buds break through the
protective sheath the plant should be moved to a position so the buds
are protected from strong winds and frost. Don't place the orchid in a
dark area as the buds won't open. A verandah or patio is ideal.
ORCHIDS IN FLOWER
When the first flowers open then the plant can be taken inside. Water
the plant once a week and cut the flower spike off no longer than four
weeks after the first flower opens. Put the flower spike in a vase and
cut 1 to 2cm off the bottom of the stem once a week at the same time
changing the water.
DISEASES
The main problem is fungal infection. If good air movement occurs in the
growing area then fungal infections will not occur. Any fungicide can be
used, e.g. Benlate, Fongarid or Previcur. Then next biggest problem is
red spider. Don't apply insecticide or fungicide sprays to flower buds,
they can deform them. Use a powder.