The ejection baffle is this web author's preferred form of 'chute protection. They are easy to make and install but require some maintenance (the cooling mesh corrodes and breaks down and needs replacing once in a while). This is the same sort of system as used in Aerotech Rockets and is far better than using wadding for a number of fairly obvious reasons (no consumables, more reliable) and it is also better than a piston as there are no moving parts which could stick (thus failing to deploy the chute). Note that no dimensions are supplied - you will need to work this out yourself, but the distance between the top of the motor tube and the motor block should be about 150mm.

A note about the cooling mesh:

This is a steel wool pillow - DO NOT use these! They burn very easily!	This is a stainless steel scouring pad and is what you use for the cooling mesh.

Lets have a closer look at the components (Do not try and assemble the baffle by following these instructions in order):

	This is the fully assembled baffle, minus the rocket. It should look something like this before you glue it into the airframe.
	This is the motor tube and is a standard part which is available from just about anywhere in whatever motor size you plan to use. Nothing special.
	These are just standard centering rings. Nothing special. I've shown three rings, but most kit's come with two, which is fine.
	This is an optional standard motor block. It's best to use one as it retains the cooling mesh and also provides a spacer between the motor and cooling mesh, but it can limit the length of motor that your rocket will accept.
	This is the steel cooling mesh which lives inside the motor tube. It's job is to catch hot particles from the ejection charge and also cool down the ejection gas. It needs to be cleaned once in a while by putting a bit of wire up the motor tube and into the mesh then jiggling it around to dislodge the carbon etc.
	This is the baffle bulkhead. The holes allow gas to enter the airframe while keeping the cooling mesh in place. Epoxy onto the top of the motor tube. If you make it slightly larger than the motor tube, you'll have something to apply an epoxy fillet to.
	This is a spacer that goes between the baffle bulkhead and the baffle shroud. Screw it into the baffle bulkhead before you glue the bulkhead onto the motor tube! It also gives the eye-bolt something to screw in to. This can be made from some dowel.
	This is the baffle shroud. It's job is to deflect any hot particles that may have made it past the main baffle and it also deflects the ejection gas to the side of the airframe. It also provides some protection for the shock cord.
	Eye Bolt - Attach your shock cord to this. For a high power rocket, you might want to use a U Bolt. Avoid 'open eyebolts' on high power rockets.

Assembly Instructions:

1: Make the baffle bulk head sub assembly first by screwing the spacer into the baffle bulkhead. Then attach the baffle shroud by screwing the eye bolt into it so that it goes through the baffle shroud and into the spacer. Apply epoxy fillets to all joined components if you wish (better safe than sorry). Attach your shock cord to the eye bolt.

2: Glue the baffle bulk head sub assembly to the top of the motor tube.

3: With your cooling mesh stretched out to about 100 - 150mm and fluffed up as much as possible, insert it into the motor tube.

4: Insert and glue the motor block if used.

5: Attach the centering rings to the motor tube.

6: Glue the whole motor tube/baffle assembly into the rocket's airframe.

The bulkhead and shroud can be made from plywood (I used a form of high temp plastic) - mark the wood, drill the holes in the bulkhead and then simply cut it out. There is no need for it to be perfectly round because these parts do not come in contact with the airframe. That's all there is to it. I think you can buy the parts for a real baffle from Aerotech, but If so, you'll probably only find them available for 29mm motors.