Rock the top end

Devils Marbles

 

Following a good drive from Alice Springs we arrived at the Devils Marbles mid arvo, getting a shock at the number of people in the camp ground.  By night fall there were about 30 groups camping at the Devils Marbles.

We took a walk through the Devils Marbles finding a vantage point and seat high on the rocks overlooking the campgrounds with a great view east.  After some time we headed back down to collect the camera gear and head out for the softer late arvo light.

Early start to the next morning to get some photo’s in the dawn light and to hit the road early for the 700km drive to Mataranka.

Mataranka (Elsey National Park)

 

Arrived after about 8hrs on the road, though it passed quickly.  Set-up camp in a nice campground which is very quiet in the evening as I type.  After setting up camp we headed to the thermal springs, about a 15min drive from the camp (there is another place that you can stay  within a few minute walk—we thought we were going to be closer than we are, doh.  But our camp ground is nicer).  The thermal springs are great, crystal clear and a constant 34 degrees with 30.5 million litres of water per day flowing through.  At the end of the pool there are some rocks with the water cascading over, creating a little spa which I loved and just had to return to a second time.  This joint is sweet and the evening much warmer than Alice Springs.

Newsflash, Bitter Springs thermal pools are even better.  Natural setting where you drift down what is best described as a deep creek which is warm and crystal clear.  We liked it so much that we went back later the same day with mask and snorkel for another go, once at the end I then swam back against the current to the start (took a bit of effort) and then past the entry point into an area most people don’t go to which it was even clearer, lots of little fish and saw a few freshwater tortoises.

We also walked to Mataranka falls ~8.5km’s return, though not in the same league as the springs, did I mention them!

And we also went to watch some Barra being handfed, some great size barra which they managed to grab one and lift out of the water.

When returning to camp in the afternoon we came across a fire which had recently started (across the road from town which is a few shops), this was in mainly grass and a few trees, but what was amazing was the number of birds of  prey that were circling overhead on the fringes of the fire looking for an easy feed fleeing the fire, amazing to watch though don’t think any of the pics or video will do justice.

Katherine Gorge (Nitmilk National Park)

 

Had a great cruise on the Katherine River through 3 of the gorges, stopping on the way for a swim at lilly pond with a nice water fall that I was quickly underneath, followed not long there after from the others on the cruise that had jumped into the pool at the base.  Campsite was great, right up against the bush with the wallabies coming out and surrounding the camper, even had one leave a present on the door mat..

Also headed up to Edith Falls north of Katherine, the upper pool was spectacular (would have made best spot, though was superseded before it could be updated by Gunlom).  After a quite steep climb the upper pool was great, the waterfall had lots of water coming over and was a challenge swimming against the current just to get my head underneath, couldn’t stay for long though between the current and the amount of water landing on top of the head.  Though gave it a good bash a few times.

Checked out the thermal pools in Katherine and jumped in for 5 minutes, nothing on Bitter Springs or Mataranka.

Kakadu

 

Gunlom

Campgrounds at the base of the falls, for a bush camp it is great with facilities including hot showers and a basic kiosk.  Had a great site with a fireplace which made for beaut damper and marshmallows…

Hit the lower  pool on the arvo we arrived and spent a fair while relaxing, though the swim to the waterfall was deceptively long, expect the height of the falls played a part in this.  This campground had only been opened the week before and the waters just cleared for salties.  Nice swimming though.

Up before sunrise for the climb to the top of the falls 100m up.  The track up wasn’t really a track but markers showing the best way up and across the rocks, and there were plenty.  The effort was well worth it once at the top, a series of pools leading to the start of the falls over the edge, beautiful swimming with the edge looking straight out over Kakadu.  Went further up the pools and found a rock crevice that I checked out which had lots of frogs, camera out I went in exploring, there were loads of frogs then after a while I saw a snake also looking for the frogs.  This is an excellent spot.

 

Night time cruise

Spot lighting cruise on a billabong followed some cultural stuff (including playing, no abusing didgeridoos).  The cruise was good, seeing crocs in a different light!  Some entertainment on the boat with a number of people being scared of a medium sized huntsman on the boat.

 

East Alligator River and Ubirr

Spent some time doing a walk along the banks of the river and into the monsoon forests, on the banks of the river it did not take long to spot a couple of saltwater crocs.  Later we took a cruise on the East Alligator river which was very muddy water with the changing tides really influencing the river.  Again lots of crocs to be seen and it was a nice change to spend some time on the water.  Later we spent some time at Cahills crossing watching the high tide washing up and then the turn of the tide.  With about a dozen vehicles waiting for the water to be safe to pass over the crossing.  Again spotted some crocs hanging around then saw one chase a feed in the water, surfacing a couple of minutes later on the opposite bank to eat the fish it caught (a good size too).

The art at Ubirr was good to see, though once we got to the lookout that was spectacular.  Spending sunset on the lookout with views out of Kakadu, the number of people was also amazing, especially at the end when everyone was ushered out by a ranger, you could see the line of people snaking down the track back to the carpark.  Revisited during the day later on, a lot less people and still a great view.

 

Yellow Water

This is more like what I had envisioned of Kakadu before arriving, the wetlands.  Took a dawn cruise on the wetlands, this was great seeing lots of crocs and bird life along with a snake and some brumbies.  The couple of hours on the boat passed quickly which was followed by a great breaky.  Then it was back out onto a boardwalk into the wetlands were we spent a couple of hours at the end after finding a saltwater croc close to the viewing platform and a number of other birds around.  Another couple of hours passed quickly for me holding the camera under the baking sun and mid thirties morning.

 

Other Things

Walk at Nourlangie Rock was good, saw a Black Wallaroo, some interesting art and some more nice views.

Bardedjilidji walk was really interesting, one of the most interesting walks we did.

 

Adelaide River Jumping Crocs

Lots of crocs, they were visible everywhere.  Then seeing the wild crocs jumping for the snack was impressive, though still unsure about if this should be permitted.  Really they are trained from a young age and they even comment on it during the cruise.  Most memorable moment would be when the dominant croc came over, the other crocs all cleared out, the boat was put on the bank and the big boy came right up to the bow on the bank, then we were allowed out in pairs onto the bow, less than 2m away from this impressive 6.2m croc.  The size of it’s head was amazing.

 

Darwin

The 4 nights planned for Darwin certainly changed… Issues with getting repairs to the car dragged out an extra week, starting to stretch us on things to do, especially with a lack of certainty on when the repairs could be done.

The Mindil Beach markets were great with a supa sunset adding while sitting on the beach.

Fogg Dam was good, though limited walking due to a large Salty hanging around the dam wall that they are still trying to catch.

Really struggled on Sunday morning to find a café for a coffee, lots of nicely located cafés that weren’t open, crazy stuff.

Howard Springs— The barra, fish and turtles in the spring were cool to see though couldn’t swim or fish.  Out of the water there was a large goanna basking on some concrete and quite a few large mossies..

Berry Springs– Another location close to Darwin and busy.  Had lunch down at the springs and swam the length of the springs, though the linking creeks with at some points a strong current.  Lots of fish in the water and it was pretty clear.  All round a good spot.

Fish feeding at Aquascene had lots and lots of fish with large milk fish being the most entertaining.

 

Litchfield

Wangi Falls—Stayed in the campground which was a short walk from the pool at the bottom of Wangi Falls.  Swimming was great in the pool at the base, with a hot rock pool in the rock face of the falls which was supa.  Can definitely recommend Wangi, though best early in the morning or late before the day trippers arrive.  We initially arrived on the Monday of a local long weekend and it was busy.

Buley Rockholes—A series of rockholes all linked by a stream, initially went on the 1st day (public holiday) and could not even get into the carpark.  Came back the next day and it was still busy though somehow we found a rockhole with a waterfall at the very top that no one else was in, beautiful.  Then it seemed others cottoned on, though we still had it to ourselves most of the time.

Florence Falls—More falls and swimming, had lunch sitting on one of the rocks just in the swimming hole at the base of the falls.  Swam over to and under the falls and took a fair pounding, though not as strong as Wangi.  Great spot.

Lost City—Good drive down the 4wd track, quite interesting walking around, felt like we needed some whips and indy music.  We tried our own backing music but not quite the same effect.

Tolmer Falls—Only able to see from the lookout as the gorge is closed due to bats.  Would love to actually get down the bottom.

Greenant Creek and falls—Decent walk through monsoon rainforest, went early in the morning and by the number of spider webs across the track we were the first for the day.  After stopping just in time before wearing 2 large spiders in the face I found a trusty stick for the remainder..  Falls at the end were better than expected which was great.