9 day trip to Yulara
Sat/Day 1 - Churchill to Mildura/Mildura to Post Augusta.
Up at 3:30 am, had breakfast, loaded up the bike and set off a little after 4:00 am. I'd been concerned about the fog, as it's been quite thick lately, fortunately there was only patchy fog about and not too thick.
Filled up with petrol at the Shell station just before the West Gate bridge. Up the Tullamarine Freeway and followed the Calder Highway. I really don't like that section of road between Melbourne and Bendigo, hardly any petrol stations at all. The sun started showing its head around Sunbury.
The bike was making strange sounds from the transmission area and every time I stopped for petrol it was worse. Finally at Ouyen the sound sounded really bad, so I planned to stop at Mildura and have the bike looked at. I'd rather stop in a big town than a small town if I can help it.
As I approached the speed restriction signs at Red Hills I had a surprise in store for me: No clutch! I couldn't move the clutch lever at all, stuck solid. Hmm, not good. I put my forward planning abilities to good use trying not to stop at round-a-bouts and stop lights and made a bee line to Mildura Motorcycles. The gear box behaved very well with no gnashing of teeth and I was able to park in front of Mildura Motorcycles with no one being any wiser. I noticed a hot, burning smell emanating from the bike and the clutch was still stuck solid. The time was 11:50 am, ten minutes before they close, good timing or what?
The staff of Mildura Motorcycles were very helpful offering me a coffee and the use of the toilet. I asked them if I could leave the bike with them while I rang for help and they gladly obliged.
Rang BMW Motorcycle Assist and assist they did! Within half an hour they had arranged for a truck to pick up my bike and had it safely stored at their premises. The tow truck company then drove me out to the Hertz car rental premises at the airport. I was informed that BMW are providing me with the use of a car until the bike is repaired, initially 5 days with unlimited kilometres. So within two hours I was back on the road again. The supplied car was a Nissan Pintara with cruise control.
Since my holiday went for longer than 5 days, I took out another 3 days cover at my expense to get me home. Not entirely attractive given that I'd really be pushing the 150 kilometre per day allowance on those last few days.
Headed off again and drove to Port Augusta. The last two hours in the dark, so I was travelling at a speed of 80 kph.
I really was looking forward to zipping down Horrocks Pass, but that sort of got watered down to travelling in the dark, in a car and following a large truck.
Stayed at the new Oasis Apartments. Had dinner at Vince's, lasagne.
Sun/ Day 2 - Port Augusta to Yulara
Had a breakfast of tea and fruit cake. Left a little after sunrise and was greeted by the sight of the Flinders Ranges wrapped in a blanket of fog. Not used to seeing them like that. Drove to Yulara, the last two hours in the darkness, again sitting on 80 kph.
No stops except for petrol,. munchies and pit stops. A rather long day, but the radio helped for as long as it lasted and the cruise control was a God send. The hardest part was staying awake. Kept seeing that sign "Fatigue Kills".
The lakes around Pimba were dry, no water at all.
Booked into the Outback Pioneer Motel and as chance would have it, I'm right next door to the unit I used last time I was up here.
Had dinner at the Bough Restaurant, which is part of the Motel, rather convenient as I can have a bottle of wine and not worry about having to drive. For some strange reason, the Outback Pioneer Motel is located on the opposite side to the rest of the facilities at Yulara.
Dinner comprises a smorgasbord, no a la carte here. $40 a head thank you very much. There was a hot food section with vegetables, rice and meats (Crocodile, Kangaroo, Beef) and pasta. The cold food section had breads, soup, cheeses, biscuits, fish and other vegetables. The dessert section had all this yummy food that looked very appealing.
There was quite a range of drinks but only two in the Riesling department. One for $38 and the other for $42. Later through the week I started calling them the cheap or the expensive wine when asked for what I wanted to drink.
After dinner I listened to the solo muso in the Bar/BBQ area before turning in for the night.
Mon/Day 3 - Yulara
Up around 8:00 and was greeted by the sound of rain. Looks like it's been raining for some time.
Had breakfast of tea and fruit cake in my room. I decided to make the rain a non issue and do the base walk anyway. I always wanted to see the rain cascade down the sides of Uluru. First stop was reception. "Any House umbrellas?" I ask. "Sorry Sir, they have all been issued, but, you can buy one from the gift shop." $40 later I was the proud owner of an umbrella with the Motel logo on it.
I quickly ditched my runners as my feet were already getting wet walking to and from reception. On with the bike boots.
Drove to the park entrance and paid $25 for a 3 day pass. "Don't forget to sign it." Advises the attendant.
The clouds were so low that the top third of Uluru was obscured. I drove around Uluru once before deciding upon where to park. It was only after the walk that I realised that I parked at where you climb Uluru.
Spent the next four and a half hours walking the "Base Walk" taking pictures of the cascades as I went.
Because all of the water pouring off Uluru, all of the tracks and creeks were full of water moving at a fair pace. I started off trying to walk around puddles and the flowing water in an effort to keep the boots dry, but soon I was forced to go through deeper water. Deeper and deeper I went until I was a few centimetres from the tops of the boots and amazingly I was still dry! After awhile I walked through anything that wasn't too deep.
Creeks were another matter however. The larger creeks had bridges, but the smaller creeks were fording points. Because of all the foot traffic, the water was deepest at this point. Usually going up or down a few metres resulted in a shallower crossing. One creek was however a challenge and required a different solution. I ended up following the creek back to the base of Uluru, jumping across the creek and walking on the rock until I get back on the ground and then back to the track. During one of these diversions I lost my Hat. I will never doubt these boots again: They ARE waterproof.
Made it back to the car and drove to Kata-Tjuta. I was so tired that I had a powernap in the car park. No more walking today.
Back to Yulara. Went to IGA to buy some bread. Too late, the only bread available were small buns, and wholemeal at that. Isn't that the case with bread, first the white sliced sandwich, then the white sliced toast, then multigrain sliced, then what ever is left. Beggars can't be choosers, so I bought a pack of buns, a jar of Vegemite and some New Zealand produced honey. Odd, you would have thought there would be a local honey product for sale.
Had a swim, shower and back to the Bough House for dinner. The expensive wine tonight.
Slept rather well.
Tue/Day 4 - Yulara to Kings Canyon and back.
Up at 8:00 and boy was I stiff and sore. Had a breakfast of tea and toast before heading off for Kings Canyon, arriving around 12:15.
Decided against the short walk as the creek was flowing and instead headed up the steps for the long walk. I climbed the steps using the following algorithm:
Near the top of the stairs, I'm passed by a ranger (actually I'm passed by everyone.) who has a plastic bag in one hand and a pair of long BBQ tongs in the other. "Is there a BBQ further up?" I ask. "No" he replies, "I'm picking up rubbish."
The bridges and stairs have all been upgraded since I was here last and are very flash: Steel with wooden covers on the top rail. So new in fact that the steel isn't even painted.
I didn't go to the "Garden of Eden" and continued with the walk, chatting to those that passed me.
The final 10 metres involved crossing the creek. Those with no imagination pulled off their shoes and socks, rolled up their trousers and forded the creek, which usual was the deepest part of the crossing. I elected to go upstream and crossed over stepping stone rocks to the other side.
Hobbled back to the car and hit the unlock button on the remote control. Nothing happened. Oh Oh! Since the weather was still overcast I had driven up with the headlights on and of course left them on, resulting in a flat battery. Grrrr!!!! Losing precious daylight. I asked people returning from the walk if they have any jumper leads: No, No, No, Yes!. A couple of young German guys have a set of jumper leads, but they can't get to me as there are cars to the left and right and in front of me. I can't move the car because of the interlock on the transmission. You first have to push the brake pedal to move the gear selector, and without power that wasn't going to happen. I'm trapped! I suggest that they remove the battery from their vehicle and bring it over to the car. They thankfully agree and we try to start the car. No luck, just not enough grunt. I don't want to flatten their battery so we abandon the attempt. They reattach their battery and they can start their vehicle easily. Hmm, bad leads or a bad connection. I decide not to push my luck with them and wave goodbye to them.
I ask another couple if they have jumper leads. They haven't but suggest I call for help on the emergency radio. Why not. I call and am told my message will be passed on to reception who will in turn pass it on to the mechanic.
I left the bonnet up as you always do when you are in trouble and am finally asked "In trouble mate?" I explain my predicament and he replies "No worries, I have a set of jumper leads in the back somewhere." He fossicks around and finds the leads and fortunately by this time the car in front of me has left. He pulls up in front of me and voila, I'm going. I thank him for his effort.
No sign of the mechanic, so I decide to do the right thing and radio that I'm out of trouble now and to pass that message onto reception. I intended to drive into the Resort, but decided against it when I saw a person in a four wheel drive standing guard of a floodway with their hazard lights flashing. I decide that I won't risk it and turn back. Still no sign of the mechanic.
Stop at Kings Creek station and fill up with petrol.
Hoofed it along until I reached Lasseter's Highway and by then the sun had set. Back to 80 kph.
The usual routine when seeing an oncoming vehicle is to slow down to about 60 kph and then put your headlights on low beam. Every thing was going well until about 40 kilometres from Yulara. I see an oncoming car, we both slow down and dip our headlights. This time the other car stops and rapidly flashes their headlights. Huh? I stop and put the headlights on high beam and am greeted with the awesome sight of 8 or so camels heading from where the other vehicle was to my side of the road and ME! Maybe they'll go around me I hope. The lead camel had saliva dripping every where from its mouth and passes me on my left hand side missing me. All of the other camels except for the last camel does the same. The last camel is a bit disorientated, stops in front of me and then decides it can go through me. It moves forwards, bumps its front legs on the bumper bar, looses its balance and falls onto the bonnet of the car and its head hitting the passenger side of the windscreen. I was expecting the windscreen to break it hit so hard. My first thought is "Hmm, this is not my car. What's this going to cost me in repairs!" The camel then falls onto the road in front of me landing on its side. Oh great, I hope it hasn't broken any bones. The camel gets back on its feet, and this time, thankfully, goes around me. I was stunned. It was like those battle robots from the first Star Wars movie. Those camels looked huge from my vantage point.
I drove into Yulara wide awake now, no fatigue at all. Stopped at the Mobil service station to determine what damage had been incurred. Surprisingly little I'm happy to say. Only a small dint where the windscreen washer nozzle on the passenger side is mounted. WOW!!! How lucky can you be?
Had dinner and a good nights sleep.
Wed/Day 5 - Yulara
Up at 9:00 and had breakfast.
Went to the Motels Tour Desk and asked about Anangu Tours (Pronounced "An-an-oo". Is that like the "G" in "Gnu"?) and helicopter rides. I'm booked in for the afternoon Kuniya Walk ($52) at 3:30pm and a helicopter ride ($180) at 12:30 tomorrow. There are two flights that go around Uluru and Kata-Tjuta: A 30 minute flight for $180 and an 'extended' flight that goes for 36 minutes for $200. The lady books me in for the $180 flight and I get the bonus 6 minutes because the other patrons want the 36 minute flight. Works for me. The only flights today were sunset flights, not what I'm after.
I notice a brochure from Uluru Motorcycle Tours, particularly the self-ride tours. Maybe I'll still get to ride around the park. I organise a 3 hour self-ride tour for $335. We arrange for a 12 noon pickup from the Motel. Dressed in my motorcycle clothes I was pillioned to their place of business. Handed over my money and was reminded of the "pay for the first $2,500" clause in the contract. Wow, a real Harley Davidson. Both BMW and Harley Davidson have the same problem with windscreens: I'm too tall! Buffeting as usual.
Headed for the park, stopped at the main gate and was challenged "This isn't the vehicle that this permit belongs to!" I explained the situation and was allowed entry. One lap of Uluru, out the Kata-Tjuta and back and two and half hours were gone. A look around the power plant, airport and industrial area and it was back to the bike operators. The owner took me back to the Motel in a van. I explained what had happened to my bike and how good BMW where in supporting me. He responded that if I had a Harley Davidson I wouldn't have got any help at all!
Quickly drove to the Cultural Centre at Uluru and did the Kuniya Walk. The way the tour is presented is that there is an Anangu representative and a Parks representative and us tourists. The Anangu representative was a lady named Christine Brumby, a senior Aboriginal guide. The tour starts in the centre of the Cultural Centre in front of wall with two snakes and their possessions and Uluru represented in high relief This is for the sight impaired patrons, so they can feel what is being spoken about. Liru, the poisonous snake has a shield, spear thrower and spear. Kuniya has her eggs. The Anangu representative speaks in Anangu and then the Parks representative interprets what has been spoken and translates the words into English. This process continues until the whole story has been told.
The tour group is then transported to Muti-Tjulu at Uluru where the story we were told is given physicality by various features on Uluru. Obviously the number of tourists over the years have risen and our group found it difficult to speak without being overheard by other groups or individuals not with our group. We would wait for them to move on before continuing.
At the end of the tour at Muti-Tjulu, we moved to a shaded area, formed a circle and were then shown some traditional foods and how to prepare herbal remedies to be used as a decongestant or stimulant. Sure worked for me. Christine then asked if we'd like to have our picture taken with her. Everyone did except for me, I didn't take my camera.
We walked back to the bus and as a finale, Christine handed out her business card. The idea being that as we had her photograph, she wanted a photograph of each person with their families.
Back to IGA and bought some real bread. Back to the Motel, a swim, shower and dinner.
I asked the entertainer if there was any possibility of playing one song. Excuses, excuses! "You'll need to see the manager.", "My guitar is too expensive for you to use.", "The last guy put a scratch in the guitar." And finished up with "You did bring your guitar didn't you?" In other words "Go Away!" I got the message.
Good night.
Thu/Day 6 - Yulara
Up early and did the Liru Walk tour. This time we had an Anangu man take the tour following the same routine as yesterday: He would speak and then be interpreted into English. After the explanation of the high relief wall we walked along the Liru track and had demonstrations of how bowls were cut from trees, how to make the oldest glue known to man (Kiti) and an explanation of an Anangu story that was drawn as a map on the ground.
At the end of the tour, the same routine of handing out business cards. As he was giving his card to the lady next to me, she asked him "Have you ever been to Cairns?" he responds in well spoken English " Yeah, about five years ago".
I was picked by the helicopter man from the Motel at 12:30 as planned. We then picked up a man who I think came from South America and another young man from England. Out to the airport, into the helicopter and then off to Kata-Tjuta. The pilot was rather careful about turbulence from the strong wind today and only went up and down one side of Kata-Tjuta, repeating the same routine at Uluru. I was in the back seat so I didn't get the unobstructed view I was hoping for. My doesn't 36 minutes go quickly?
Drove to Kata-Tjuta and did the short walk. Back to Yulra and checked out the CBD and my bank account.
Had dinner, listened to the muso and retired for the night. I asked the staff at the restaurant if there was any place to have a steak for dinner. Seems to be an awful lot of seafood about that seems out of place for Central Australia. They suggested Gecko's in the CBD. I'll give that a go.
Fri/Day 7 - Yulara
Up at 9:00 and headed out to Kata-Tjuta and did the long walk which took me over four hours. I'd taken a banana and two oranges and stopped at the major lookouts to eat, take in the view and rest.
Back to the Yulara CBD and bought a few cards and souveniers.
Tonight I decided to try out Gecko's Restaurant in the CBD and had half a small Garlic and Rosemary pizza, and Scotch Fillet steak. Now that was a good change from the same smorgasbord each night back at the Motel. Not sure about the steak being in a soup bowl though. As I was driving there was no wine tonight, but I did check the prices and found them to be much the same as the Motels. The food and two Jim Beams cost me $45.
Back to the Motel, a Jim Beam, listened to the muso and then back to my room to pack up.
Sat/Day 8 - Yulara to Port Augusta
Up a bit before dawn and drove to Uluru to take some pictures of Muti-Tjulu. Not a great dawn anyway, too many clouds again.
Headed for Port Augusta. As I passed the entrance to the park it was starting to rain and you could barely see Kata-Tjuta. The rain let up just before Curtin Springs and I managed to stay ahead of it for the rest of the day.
Just after Curtin Springs I spotted a herd of Camels munching just off the road. Took their picture before continuing.
Stopped at Coober Peedy for petrol and took Harry's advice and didn't fill up at the first station, but at the Mobil station in town. Pity I took the advice as the first station had petrol five cents a litre cheaper.
The lakes around Pimba now had some water in them. They really fill up quick. The sun went down at Pimba and I did the last two hours at 80 kph.
Booked into the Oasis Apartments again. Dinner at Vince's one last time. By the time I got back to the Motel the rain I had been out running all day caught up.
Sun/Day 9 - Port Augusta to Mildura
Up around 8:30 and headed off for Mildura. The clouds were low over the Flinders ranges with their base being as high as the top of Horrock's Pass. Going down into the valley it was just fog which lasted all the way to Laura.
Caught up with the rain about fifty kilometres from Mildura.
I went straight to the airport to organise the trip to Melbourne. The people at Hertz told me that Rex have a $99 trip to Melbourne. I thought I'd try QuantasLink first, after all, they've never had an accident right? There was no one at the desk, just a sign saying "Back at 3:30", so I waited until they showed up. Not being a regular flyer I didn't know the routine. We don't sell tickets here, but the rates are $125 on the Internet and $200 from the shop. How very friendly. I went to the Rex counter and basically got the same story about buying tickets, however , the person used their mobile phone to call the reservation line and handed it to me. The best they could do was $125, I accepted. At least they were friendlier than QuantasLink.
Drove into Mildura and found a Motel and booked in. The receptionist was very friendly giving me a very good rate ($72) and recommended the Club across the road to have dinner at. "They have large servings", she adds, "They'll even fill you up!" Not quite sure what that comment meant.
Had a look through the Plaza across the road, before heading to the Club for dinner. I ordered soup, garlic bread and Fillet Mignon and she was right, I did struggle to finish it all.
Started writing up what had happened during the tour over a bottle of wine. ($13, Ah, much better.)
Mon/Day 10 - Mildura to Churchill
Yes this day looks out of place, a tenth day on my tour, well all will be revealed. The original plan had me home last night, but due to the hire car issue I had to extend the tour an extra day.
Up at 8:00 and had breakfast. Drove to the airport and parked outside the Hertz shop. I went inside and was asked how everything went. I said "Fine, except for an incident with an Afghani Terrorist Camel." They weren't sure if I was pulling their leg or not, so I explained what happened and I'm sure they were expecting massive damage. When I pointed out the two damaged spots (There was also damage to the window support of the left hand side, half way up), they were very much relieved. To finalise the deal, they will have to send me a quote to have the damage to the car repaired. Not looking forward to that.
I mentioned the service I had received at the airport yesterday and mentioned that they seem to be rather flustered. I was told that at regional airports they keep the staff to a minimum and everyone including the boss has to put in. Maybe that explains their hurry in dealing with me.
Lugged my gear across to the airport and booked in my three items of luggage: DryRider bag, backpack and helmet. Walked around until the plane was ready to accept passengers at 10:00. The plane had three ranks of seats. A single seat on the left and two seats on the right, fortunately I had a single seat, pity the view was obstructed by the engine. I had to turn my head a full ninety degrees to get a clear view and that didn't last long.
The hostess came down the aisle with her portable tea/coffee trolley and handed out what we wanted as well as a piece of cake. Later on we were handed out single packed Cool Mints. No expense spared.
The flight was quick only 75 minutes, certainly the quickest way to get from A to B. We landed at Tullamarine and I got a Sky Shuttle ($13) to the city. I reached in my pocket and noticed a set of keys I shouldn't have. Yup, the rental car keys. I rang Hertz and asked if they were missing anything. "No, umm, oh yes, the keys". I said I'd post them back.
Phoned Southbank Motorcycles and was told the bike wouldn't be ready today. Went to the VLine ticket booth which just happened to be right next to me and bought a ticket to get me to Morwell. ($23) The lady cheerfully told me that the train leaves at 11:28 and is two blocks from where we were, just follow the red line. I looked at my watch and saw the time was 11:15! Oh boy, did I work hard getting myself and the luggage to the platform. I looked around and didn't see any trains, so I sat down to recover. No sooner had I sat down than an announcement informs me that the train for Traralgon is about to leave. Huh? Where? I quickly get up and spot a single carriage, way down the end and board as quickly as possible. No sooner had I put the luggage down inside the train than the train disembarks. Now I was really out of breath, still I had the trip home to recover in.
The trip took two hours, stopping at every station past Pakenham. Carried the luggage to the taxi rank in George street and headed for home. ($17).
I called Southbank Motorcycles and was told that the repairs could take up to three weeks, with the possibility of changing the whole transmission. Dusted off the car and got used to my new mode of transport.
My what a varied trip, full of adventure, etc. I wouldn't have it any other way.