Trip to Central Australia

06/04/2002

Day One: Adelaide

Left at 7:00 am and rode to Adelaide via Melbourne, Ballarat, Horsham, etc. The sky was overcast when I left and didn't clear up until Ballarat and by that time I was cold. Stopped at Horsham for lunch and I was still shivering. After that the weather warmed up and I was much more comfortable. Stayed at a place called 'The Mansions' and parked the bike in the Target car park across the road (an extra $12).

Day Two: Coober Pedy

Left at 7:00 am and took a wrong turn leaving Adelaide and ended up at Walkerie before I realised I was way off track. The problem was that there were road works as I left the city and it just said detour so I had a guess how to get back onto the main road. I'd travelled a few kilometres before figuring I was lost, so I stopped and asked directions at a petrol station. The attendant said I was on the wrong road (I was North-East Road) and needed to be on Main North Road. I was told to turn left then right. Just like the attendant said there was Main North Road so I turned into it and that's when my troubles really started. At the intersection Main North Road leaves the highway and goes East so I was following Route 20 instead of Route 1. I worked my way back through Morgan (where I had to catch a ferry to cross the river), Burra, Gladstone, Wilmington and finally Port Augusta. In a way it was a pleasant ride travelling through the Flinders Ranges with all of those little towns having a 1950's feel to them. I stayed inland longer than I needed to as I was also trying to avoid a huge black cloud heading across Spencer Gulf. I stopped at Port Augusta for lunch. About 10 kilometres out the rain started so on with the wet weather gear. The electrical storm looked fantastic as lightning struck the two mesas to my left. In the end I only went through very light rain so I was lucky. By the time I reached Glendambo the sun was setting. So I filled up the tank and the 10 litre container of petrol and headed for Coober Pedy travelling at 80 kph as I wasn't sure about the wild life. I got a bit concerned about half way through the trip as I spotted a group of three cars parked by the side of the road. I passed them and about ten minutes later the cars were behind me and followed me for awhile before passing. About 10 minutes later there they are again parked by the road. I pass them and the same thing happens again - They catch up with me, follow me for awhile, pass me and then stop later on. By the time I reached 60 kilometres for Coober Pedy I sped up and I didn't see them again. Weird! I thought that I wouldn't make the distance which is why I carried petrol. Because I travelled so slow I made the trip without having to refill which was good news. I arrived at 'The Experience' Motel and found it locked up tight, no night bell and only the answering machine responding on the telephone line. Not happy. I ended up staying at the 'Cave Motel' in one of their underground rooms, very nice.

Day Three: Yalara

Left at 7:00 am and stopped for lunch at Kulgera. A couple riding a Gold Wing and trailer pulled up in front of me and we ended up chatting. Seems they are from Hawaii and bought the bike in Perth and are travelling all over. They told me that they had even been to Morwell to visit friends, small world. They had entertained the notion of travelling with me but as I was too slow for them they left on their own. I had just started to move and noticed that the bike was feeling heavy. A quick check revealed that I had a flat back tyre - great! The Petrol station had absolutely no idea about how to work on a bike. After working through the options I tried a product called Tyre-Weld which is basically latex and a gas in a pressure pack can. This blows in the latex and pumps up your tyre. The instructions said insert the contents of the can and go for a ride, so I did. The hole seemed a bit too big to fix as the latex just came out of the hole and the gas escaped. Not happy. Tried the RACV Motorcycle Assist which was a joke, they really are useless. After half an hour on hold I just gave up. I'd almost resigned to spending the night when I noticed that the tyre hadn't deflated any more. Hmm, maybe that stuff does work? Decided that I'd make an attempt to ride to Alice Springs and purchase a new tyre as I didn't trust the tyre for any real work. I left all my gear at Kulgera and rode slowly to Erldunda. Checked the back tyre and boy was it hot, but it still wasn't flat. Put some air into the tyre and that cured the heat problem. Rode onto Stuart Wells and checked the tyre - warm, good. Phoned up the Honda dealer in Alice Springs and found that they'd sold the motorcycle part of the business and gave me the new number. Rang them and found that they didn't have a suitable tyre but said he'd ring around. He found a tyre for me at the Yamaha shop (Race Motors). The tyre was 10% larger in height but I was prepared to take just about anything. It was 4:45 and they shut at 5:30, another problem as it was 90 kilometres to Alice Springs. I pleaded with the dealer to stay open for me and they graciously did so. Arrived at Alice Springs at 5:45 and the man waiting for me fitted the tyre and had great difficulty getting the rim to bead with the rim. After long struggle he succeeded. I thanked him very much and said I'd see him again in a few days. It was 7:00 pm and the sun was setting so another slow 270 kilometre ride back to Kulgera at 80 kph. Picked up my gear and then rode the 340 kilometres to Yalara again at 80 kph. I finally arrived at 3:45 am. Boy what a long day. The lady at Outback Pioneer Motel reception said this was the latest arrival she'd ever seen. Because I had already pre-paid for my accommodation I really had to 'put in' today.

Days Four and Five: Yalara

Next morning I did the walk around Uluru and went through the Cultural Centre and was disappointed that there wasn't a more hands/personal approach. In the afternoon I went back out to Kata Tjuta and did the short walk. I could see black clouds gathering in the North and was expecting rain and sure enough, just as I reach the end of the walk it starts to rain. Headed back to the bike and then rode to Uluru as I really wanted to see those waterfalls. As I departed I could see the right side of Kata Tjuta in the black of the clouds, the right side with still a bit of blue sky behind it and a wonderful rainbow rising from the centre and seeming to head to Uluru - If only I had a camera :( I arrived too late to see the waterfalls as it was too dark but I could make out silvery shapes against the rock. Back to the Hotel and dinner. I was chatting with an English tourist who was at Uluru when the rain hit and he said it was both wonderful and terrible. The waterfalls were wonderful but the people descending from the top of Uluru screaming in the wind and sliding in the rain was terrible. I didn't approach Mal tonight.

Days Six and Seven: Kings Canyon

Left at 7:00 and rode to Kings Canyon and booked in at the resort. Took a helicopter ride around the canyon to get a good idea of what I was letting myself in for. I was the only person there, so I had to pay for two people to make the flight - costly but a really great view. Did the short walk and then had a relax in my room. My boots got damp riding through the rain yesterday and I ended up with a few blisters that I wasn't counting on. Turned on what I thought was the air conditioner and fell asleep. Woke in about an hour and found that the room was still hot. Seems I don't have air conditioning, I have air cooling. Whatever it is it isn't working. Complained at the desk but didn't get much of a response. Had dinner at the restaurant and was impressed with the food and friendly people running the place. A man named Dave Nisbet was the solo entertainer there and he did some really nice stuff. After I finished dinner I asked Dave if I could play a few songs and he said sure, so I played two songs and said thanks. I was really looking forward to playing at least once on my trip and it happened.

Next morning after a hot night I went to reception and complained about the cooling again. This time they were more responsive and updated my accommodation to a room with a real air conditioner and a Spa to boot. Did the long walk which took me three and a half hours. I didn't push myself and had a swim in the water hole. Very refreshing. Finished the walk and rode down to Kathleen Springs and did that walk as well. Had dinner again at the restaurant and got stuck into the $19 all you can drink wine offer. After dinner Dave offered me his guitar and sat back and had dinner while I performed. Dave then took off and left me with the job of entertaining the guests - more than I bargained for. Dave finally came back and said "I thought you'd run out of songs sooner or later!" LOL!

Days Eight, Nine and Ten: Alice Springs

I went to buy a permit to travel the Mereenie Loop Road but was advised that it's too rough for a bike, so I opted to ride to Alice Springs on the sealed roads. I got to see some of the sights that I missed riding in the night earlier. I stayed at the Red Centre Resort about 4 kilometres North of Alice Springs and that was quite comfortable. I hired a four wheel drive for two days with a 200km per day allowance. Headed out West and drove to Gosse Bluff and drove into the crater. I must say that I was disappointed as it looks great from a distance but turns into what looks like an old quarry site, a bit like at Coober Pedy up close. The sun was getting low so I headed for the motel. There goes my free 400 kilometre allowance. Had dinner at the motel and a swim and crashed for the night.

Up around 8:00 and drove to Hermannsburg and then onto Palm Valley. Well I was expecting a rough road but nothing like what I found. The road just got rougher and rougher and ended up following the path of the creek. A few kilometres short of the end of the road I managed to get stuck in the dust. I managed to get the back tyres out of the sand by placing a big flat rock under the jack to spread the weight. I put palm fronds under the wheels and tried to back out. An hours work and I only moved a metre. Ten more goes and I'll be out. Just then a four wheel drive appears in front of me and stops and comes over to offer help. He has a quick look at the front wheels and notices that the hub locks are OFF! He set them to lock and just drove out. Boy did I feel silly. He said not to worry as the same thing happened to him the first time he got stuck. Continued to the end of the road and did the long walk. I was amazed to see fish in some of the pools of water. Drove home past Gosse Bluff again, still looks good from a distance. Did the washing, all clean now.

Up at 4:00 and went on a Hot Air Balloon ride. We went up on the flats South-East of Alice Springs and drifted in to Alice Springs and came down a few kilometres later. I was expecting to see a bit more under me than shrubs and dust. Had Orange Juice and Quiche instead of Champagne and Chicken at a desert location - that was different. I was now dirty from helping to pack up the balloon, so much for doing the washing yesterday. Hosed down the four wheel drive before taking it back. I mentioned that I got stuck and the hub lock problem I had. The lady wasn't perturbed at all - "You should have read the manual first - YOUR PROBLEM!"
Went to the Honda shop and booked the bike in for a service. Went back to the hotel and did the washing while killing time. Took a Taxi back to the Honda Shop ($7 for a kilometre) and picked up the bike. Road to Standley Chasm but I was too late (they close at 5:00) so I went to Stanley Gap instead. Had a good chat with a few tourists there.

Days Eleven and Twelve: Tennant Creek

Left at 8:00 and headed North for Tennant Creek, stopping at the Devil's Marbles. No doubt the rocks are in strange shapes but the drawcard for me was the Street's ice cream van. The town of Aileron takes the prize for having the highest price of petrol - $1.27 per litre. The town of Wycliff Wells was the most innovative - the security shutters on the windows were cleverly disguised by the UFO paintings. I hadn't had any trouble with the Road Trains until today when the driver kept going into the dirt by the side of the road every time a car passed in the opposite direction. Not sure what was bothering him.
Tennant Creek is the most shuttered town so far, there's almost a siege mentality happening and I did feel uncomfortable. Once you're off the street like a shop, motel, whatever, you're in a safe haven. On the street is a different matter. Little signs like 'Only 6 people in the cage at a time' at the bottle shop had you wondering. I bought lunch and chose "Eat In" to the question "Eat In or Takeaway?" from the man who made my salad sandwiches. Sat at a table outside the shop and was approached by an aboriginal woman and asked "Have you got a smoke?" When I replied that I didn't smoke I don't think she believed me. Her next question was "Do you have $5 for food?" I wasn't quite sure what to do so I handed over the $5. I quickly ate my lunch and retired back to the Motel where I had a swim and a nice relaxing read. Had dinner at the Motel.

Next morning I went to the Gold Mine and went through both tours. The first was the gold extracting process and the second was a tour through a mock mine. It was all very good and gave me an insight into how hard things were for the original miners. Went back to the shop I went to yesterday and had takeaway and was advised to try eating at the dam a few kilometres down the road. That was good advice, very relaxing. Kept going up to Three Ways, bought a postcard and rode back to the motel. I bought a pair of sunglasses that I lost in Alice Springs somewhere. I was nearly half blind by the time I arrived at tenant Creek.

Day Thirteen: Alice Springs

Left at 8:00 and rode back to Alice Springs. Rode to Standly Chasm and checked that out. I guess I'm all Gap and Chasmed out, just another crack in the mountains. Checked out the Tod Mall where I bought a few souvenirs. Had dinner at Overlanders Steak House, quite nice. They had a quaint custom of asking which country you came from and putting a small national flag on your table.

Day Fourteen: Coober Pedy

Left at 8:00 and headed for Coober Pedy. I was passed by a Maui hire motor home that was travelling only a few kph faster than the 100 I was sitting on. About 10 minutes later I see it parked by the side of the road and a lady waving me down. "I've run out of fuel!" exclaims the lady. I said I'd bring some back. Only 30 kilometres from Glendambo. I filled up and filled up one of my 10 litre containers and rode back. As I arrive I see another motor home has parked behind her and they have siphoned out some of their fuel to put in her tank. I was just in time to hear her start her vehicle. Wow what a thrill! No thanks, nothing! I turned around and continued my journey.
Arrived at Cober Pedy around 4:00 and booked into the Experience Motel which is quite a place. The whole motel is cut into the rock and it goes down another two floors. I was given a guided tour by the lady who owns the place, very impressive. A constant 25 degrees all year!
Went to an Internet Café to send an e-mail. Very trusting here, you pay in advance and they refund whatever you haven't used. Had dinner at the Cave Motel and was invited to sit in with a Swiss couple, which was a pleasant change to eating on my own. Every now and then they'd lapse is German so I didn't know what they were talking about. When it came to bill time I found that they'd paid for my bottle of wine, now that was a surprise.
The owner of the Motel told me to put my bike behind the bushes rather than leave it in the car park as last night three cars had been broken into, the church next door was broken into (stealing $9) and they'd tried to get into the Motel but failed. I managed to get permission to park my bike inside the Motel in a section they were still building.

Day Fifteen: Adelaide

Left at 8:00 and rode to Adelaide arriving after dark. Getting cooler by the hour. I didn't get lost this time.

Day Sixteen: Home .

Left at 9:00 and rode home. It started to rain a little at Ballarat so I changed into my wet weather gear. The light rain soon cleared up and I had fog all the way to Melton. I had a few drops of rain at the Churchill turn off apart from that it was dry but cool. Welcome home!