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The Providence Disaster

The Menindee Rail Bridge

Menindee Honour Roll - World War 1

Menindee is located in the Far West of New South Wales, on the Darling River, 110km’s E.S.E. of Broken Hill and about 1000 km’s west of Sydney.  The town has an official population of 980 although it serves a far greater number of seasonal workers, neighbouring station owners and tourist. And so for convenience, our welcoming signs say - “Menindee - Population 980, Elevation 70m.”

 Menindee’s history is full of colour and characters.  It was first ‘discovered’ by  aborigines of the Barkindji Tribe, and their fossilized remains in the dry sand dunes around the lakes have provided some of the most prolific and consistently early remnants of human existence anywhere in the world. Thus far archaeologists have positive evidence of occupation dating back 26000 years - not much younger than our more famous neighbouring site, Lake Mungo.

 More recently, Major Thomas Mitchell named the site of Menindee “Laidley’s Ponds” as he passed by in July 1835.  It was to become a major depot for later explorers, and was recognised as the “last authentic outpost of civilisation” - a jumping off place for the interior. Game adventurous men might often have wished they had never gone beyond.  The most famous of these, Burke & Wills, can well rue leaving its safety. In 1860, their party stayed in a shanty pub owned by Thomas Pain, (now Maidens Hotel)  while they sorted out their differences of opinion  and gathered their strength before heading north on that fateful journey with the burning sun and unforgiving land of north-eastern Australia.  The grave of Dost Mohammet, one of the camel drivers of the expedition is buried just out of Menindee off the Broken Hill road. In the early years, the town was of strategic importance to the cattle and sheep men who had selected and fenced vast tracts of unyielding scrub and called the exotic and beautiful names such as Weinteriga, Netley, Tolarno and Albemarle. In one year Albemarle shore 212,500 sheep.

 Paddle Steamers plying the Darling in good seasons, docked at Menindee with stores for the residents, who in 1862 could boast a lock-up, a store, a Pub and a few rough shanties.  Huge barges laden with the clip of a million sheep manoeuvred their way along the meandering Darling, battling snags, sand bars and other boats. Fortune saved the brave, for to captain a steamer on the Darling you were faced with either floodwaters that could find you miles inland and away from the body of the river; or stranded high and dry in the last of a chain of puddles that once was a river.

 The river has always been the pulse of the town, although the reasons have changed slightly over the years. Plans to lock and weir it in order to provide a permanent navigation and communication by steamers, were shelved in the 1890’s as too expensive. But technology finally made such a proposal obsolete, when in 1927, the steel ribbons of rail reached the town.  After this, the boat trade never again afforded the same importance for Menindee and districts.

 Now the river supplies water for sport, recreation, tourism and agriculture - to say nothing of a quiet and always magical sunset photo opportunity. And a major claim to fame for the town to-day is the beautiful lake system that runs off the Darling, covering 46000 hectares.  These lakes accommodate excess flows from the Darling  and provide a permanent water supply  for Menindee, Broken Hill and the Great Anabranch.

The Early Days in Menindee

 This article was published in a special edition of Yabby Yarns (Menindee Central School Magazine) in 1981. It was to celebrate the Centenary of the Menindee Post Office.  It was compiled by Mrs. Aileen Morphett (dec 1999) – as told by Mrs Morphett and the late Mrs J Cleary. The article was written in 1960.

The township of Menindee, over a century old, has been the rendezvous of many interesting personalities.  So many of those good people have passed on and we venture now to glean through the intervening years of the history of Menindee and its people.  We are told that the original name was ‘Wottenella’ meaning ‘Many Waters’ or meeting of waters of the numerous creeks, rivers and lakes which surround the area where in the past were the hunting grounds of our native aboriginals.  Even to-day can be found relics of their burial grounds around the lakes and sand hills, their battle and playgrounds where stones with strange markings which must have been carried for miles because there are so few natural stones in the immediate area. Stones, which are worn thread bare by the grinding of the nardoo seed, which grows in the swamps and was part of their food.

 When Burke and Wills arrived there was already a small township of one hotel, one store, a Police Station and Kinchega Station seven miles away.  Settlers who started sheep grazing properties were the first main industry.  In those days, of course, shearing was done by blade shears.  It is understood that Mr Sid Ah Chung’s father was amongst one of the first market gardeners in the area when water was carried in cans on a stick across the shoulder. Slowly the gardens have progressed even with so many set backs such as the shortage of water, hailstones and shortage of markets when we see to-day the beautiful orchards of stone fruit, citrus orchards and tomato and vegetable gardens with spray irrigation and modern machinery to cultivate the soil.

 The Boiling Down Works.

 Another industry of the past where Texas Downs homestead is to-day was the ‘Boiling Down Works’. In the early nineties when sheep were brought from as far as Queensland , to be rendered and tinned.  Mr Owen Sen of Wanda, recalled that he had taken 6000 ewes from Moorara Station to be rendered down for 1/6 per head. It is alleged that the manager was accused of absconding with the funds of the business and when the coach was stuck up near the Roseborough Hotel, he was also suspected of that and finally returned to America. Stories were told that wild pig and galah were canned and sold for ham and chicken.  Water supplies for residents for many years had to be carried by buckets up the steep river banks and carted in small tanks by horse and cart later being replaced by windmills, pumps and engines and to-day the town is supplied by a modern pumping station, which also supplies the water to Broken Hill.

 n the early days transport was done by bullock and horse teams, camels, either in long strings, or hitched to wagons, carrying wool supplies over bush tracks for many miles, with the picturesque paddle steamers on the Darling River bringing supplies and taking back wool.  These steamers travel from Morgan to Bourke. The trading boats being owned by Archie McInnes, Mr Davies and Allen and Dodd in the years about 1903.  During the latter part of the Paddle Steamer days Mr Martin Hehir was connected with them. Finally the ‘Renmark was the last boat to bring supplies to Menindee when 250  tons of wine and brandy were unloaded for trucking to Sydney by rail in February 1943. The ‘Renmark’, after this final trip was converted into a pleasure boat for passengers and in about 1951 ended up by being burnt at the waters edge at Goolwa.  The steamer ‘Rodney’, one of the boats used on the transport, was burnt by the shearers in the 1892 strike near Polia Station.  Mr L E Underdown owned the first motor car which was bought in 1912, a T Model Ford. Shortly afterwards Mr Bill Rich bought a motor buggy.

 Motor Mail Service.

Jottings  and records of the late John Cleary, who was born in Wentworth in 1870, disclose that he was the first person to have a motor mail service in Australia. He had started a mail service by horse drawn coach in 1892 from Cockburn to Broken Hill and obtained the contract from Broken Hill to Menindee in 1894. 

 With competition rife at that time, passengers were carried to Broken Hill for 2/6 with a free meal thrown in. It is interesting to note that when Mr Cleary inaugurated the motor rail service in 1911 it was on a three months trial with the postal authorities who insisted that this be followed by a coach and five horses all the way to ensure its safe arrival. The vehicle used was a solid rubber tyred Albion Lorry, converted into a charabanc to carry passengers.

 Mr Cleary’s father built the first telegraph line down the Darling River in 1877. This extended 50 miles down to the Rocky Water Hole from Wilcannia. Later George and Charlie Maiden extended this line to within eight miles of Menindee, later to be completed to the township by Messrs Webb, Lehman, and Barraclough. Mr Cleary recalled flour being 10 pounds per bag and 3d per pound for beef when the line was being built.

 From the candle and lamp days to carbide lights and privately owned electric generating sets, came the installation of the power line from Broken Hill in November 1959.  This is now being extended to houses and station properties 15 miles down the river and 8 miles up the river from Menindee.

Hotels.

The old hotels to be remembered are:

- The’ Roseborough’, 18 miles upstream owned by Harry Pretty and Charlie Maiden.

 - The ‘Harp of Erin’, 30 miles downstream owned by Mrs Meddlicot.

- ‘The Old Post Office Hotel’, the first hotel taken over by Mr Maiden Sen in 1870 and afterwards by Mr Fairhead. 

- ‘Exchange Hotel’ kept by Mr O’Neil about 17 miles downstream on the west bank.

- ‘Menindee Hotel’ where Burke and Wills stayed and built in about 1852-3 by Thomas  Pain.

-The ‘West End Hotel’ formerly known as the ‘Drovers Arms’ in the early 1880’s was built by Mr Gillet (who married Miss Liza Maiden) and the license was afterwards held by W Maiden, Harry Church, L E Underdown, H Bourne, Mrs Williams and was delicensed in 1925.

-The ‘Crown Hotel’ was converted from a shop, by a Mr Berry and it was finally taken over by S.W.Nicholls later being partly destroyed by fire and the license surrendered.

- The ‘Albemarle Hotel’ was built by Mr Pretty in 1886 and afterwards held in turn by Messrs Brewer J Gordon, DeBaun, J Gordon, Sid Gough, L E Underdown, M Hehir for the Estate of Underdown, and later by Mrs A Morphett, formerly Miss A Underdown.

 There was a verse that commenced by mentioning the different old well known families.

 It began ‘Welcome Pretty, Lily and White Maidens’ and so on. (I never ever found out how it ended)

 Then we have the Fausts, Klemms, Fairheads, Scobies, Edwards, Owens (who were at Moorna Station in the late 60’s) Parkers 1880, Warrens, Gordons, Larkins and Powers, Galloways.  It is interesting to note that Anne Larkins, who is 90 years old and born at the Crown Hotel is still living at Broken Hill. Others recalled were Dr and Mrs Tomlinson, who gave medical attention, and his wife who brightened the dances with her music (The Dance of the Honey Bees being her favourite tune)  Mr and Mrs Ted Foulgar who cared for the local punt, which crossed the river, Mr C Coombe Snr who for years cared for the punt before the Railway Bridge was built in 1927. Other well known identities of the early days were Granny Munnery, Granny Files, Granny Ferguson and Granny Hutchinson who was the local Midwife and a wonderful worker for her church.

 The sad days of the depression may, with pride be remembered by the sporting events held at Lunatic Bend, including clay-pan dances, many funds raised being donated to the Bush Nursing Association.

 Some of the exciting episodes of the old days included Hotels being swapped for sheep stations, mailbags stolen, five horses poisoned to upset the opposition mail coach.

 Services.

 The first Bank established in Menindee was the Joint Stock Bank in front of the Crown Hotel, but was closed in 1905. In 1959 the E.S.& A Bank erected a modern building in Menindee St. The Bush Nursing Service established in 1927 rendered a wonderful service for years and was afterwards replaced by The Methodist Inland Mission Nursing Service and together this nursing service together with fortnightly visits of the Royal Flying Doctor Service and the Broken Hill Ambulance Service have created a much greater sense of security for residents. In 1883 Miss Bell had a private school, later this was carried on by Miss Young.

 The school building has grown to extended grounds and additional buildings and is now attended by over 200 pupils.

 The first steam train to cross the bridge at Menindee in 1927 is now replaced by the well known Silver City Comet, air conditioned with a tri-weekly service. The N.S.W. Railway Department expects to shortly install diesel engines for the transport of all goods by rail from Parkes to Broken Hill replacing the steam engines.

 For many years a Progress Association with Mr W Murray as President did much for the progress of the town and district. Local government which does much to improve the conditions of the people was not extended to Menindee until 1959, when it became part of the Central Darling Shire Council, comprising an area of 20,000 square miles. The first councillors elected for this area were Messrs L Galloway, and N Farrar and Miss Aileen Underdown (now Mrs Aileen Morphett) The headquarters of the Shire are at Wilcannia , Mr A Connell of Ivanhoe being at the present the president.

 A branch of the Country Women's Association was formed in 1955 and recently erected a new building to replace the old building erected at the time.

 For a number of years Menindee only had two stores, namely Faust’s and Klemm’s . Mr Faust built a wooden store named the ‘Cash Store’ in1886. He had previously conducted a Blacksmiths Shop where in addition to general blacksmithing he built drays. Then he built a brick store in 1891 (the bricks for this being brought around the river in pontoons from the old hospital building.) His sons Otto and Henry Faust continued with the store and blacksmith shop. (Henry was self appointed dentist). Later Mr Edwin Coombe then Jack Edwards and finally Ray Travis carried on this business. Ray Travis eventually moved to the present Central Store and Faust’s Store became the residence of Mr and Mrs John Cleary. Mr Travis Snr, for years had a horse drawn hawkers van, servicing many of the outback areas during his travels. Klemm’s store which had been built by Paddy Green in 1874 passed on in turn to Simon McKenzie, Dents, Sam Klemm and Beasley and eventually by the Klemm family until 1927.

 Henry Church in 1877 had a cool drink business and then a butchery business and when he procured the license of the ‘Harp of Erin Hotel’, Mr Faust continued the butchery business.  There was also a bootmakers shop owned by Pat Gaeghan in 1888 which was bought by Mr Berry and converted into the Crown Hotel.

 Mr Ah Chung Snr built the first Baker’s Shop in 1880, To-day the shop is owned by N Poulos and the business conducted by McLennan and Roberts.  We are reminded also that there was a little round ‘Beehive Store’ next to where the Baker’s Shop is to-day,   where a tailor was established and a saddler shop next, which Mr Scobie owned and which was transferred to Mr Hart who finally moved to Larloona Station.

 The present Butcher Shop built by John Cleary who formerly had the mail run to Broken Hill in 1915, and when he retired carried on by his sons Lawrence and Jack until some two years ago and now by Mr Marcon.

 Mr David Edwards and Sons for years had a Blacksmiths Shop situated at the back of what is now Wood Sons Ltd Store. Mr Maiden Snr built a Butchers Shop, which was conducted by Mr Wilkinson for a while and then from 1929 for some five years was carried on by Mr Klemm. The store,  now occupied by A Brown was built by his father in 1926. Later Mr Herb Holder built the Railway Store, now owned by his son Mr John Holder. 

 The Central Store - Mr Edwin Coombes commenced as a paper and barbers shop in 1935, later being carried on by Ray Travis and after that by Mr Sladden. To-day this shop is owned and conducted by Mr and Mrs Rex Forrest.  The store now occupied by Mr J Murray was built by P Kolstad in 1938, later being conducted by by Mr Hocking and Miss Eunice Baker.

 The Church.

Every town has its Historic Churches and Menindee was no exception despite its isolation of the early days.  For instance the old Roman Catholic Church building, standing to-day near the present modern church, was given by a Mr Green at the time a storekeeper in the town, and is over one hundred years old.

 The first Church of England Church was built in 1891 - the building being built of wood and iron - was replaced by the building of to-day of brick and cement in 1925 with the new Rectory building added in 1959. The Rev Linton was one of the early Rectors, who rode a motor cycle around the surrounding district and many will recall that often he took a boxing glove to spar with the menfolk on the stations visited for entertainment.  Many again will remember Rev Daniels, the flying parson of not so many years distant.

 The Methodist Church erected on ground next to the Post Office in 1956 is an important adjunct to the religion of the town.  The original Police Station was erected near the old West End Hotel in the early days, is now replaced by a more modern building in Yartla Street, next to the Post Office.

 Menindee throughout the years, like all other towns, small or large has always had its sporting interests. Local sports included golf, duck shooting on the lakes, cricket, foot running and racing. Very fine athletes in the past were Bob Files, W (Bill) Maiden, Jnr Eric Maiden, J Petroga, and Fred Warren just to recall a few of those who added to the attractive events of long ago.

 A Showground was established in Crick Park in 1906 where sheep and dog trials and horse events were held. Wonderful horse women in the persons Mrs Barrett and Mrs Ballantyne were competitors in the various events. Another event of interest was the driving of cars between lanes of kerosene tins in 1913 which at the time was a test to be proud of.

 The original Racecourse was near Menindee Lake sand hills, when hurdy gurdys and barrell organs with the traditional monkey would appear to delight the old and young alike.

The first meeting at the racecourse where it now stands was held in October 1910 - a small dry lake bed under the guidance of a keen committee including Messrs C Baker, Martin Hehir, E Owen and W Waites  a meeting was held with 750 pounds prize money and a gold cup, the meeting lasting in those days some two days. The Crozier family were then keen supporters with their horses and were generous with trophies they donated.

 In recent years Rifle and Gun Clubs have been formed and to-day are holding events that attract shooters from near and far. A water ski club has also been formed and is proving a popular sport. Cricket and tennis clubs are functioning with success.

 To-day the small town which endured through the years the heat waves, dust storms, drought and floods has emerged full of hope for the future, with the laughing of the jackass, the whistling of many beautiful birds, the bounding kangaroos, the emu and the tiny rabbit, the Water Conservation Scheme with its vast areas of impounded waters glittering in the sunshine, with the prospect of bitumen roads, unfolds a picture of water skiing, sailing boats, beaches, delightful picnic spots in the gum tree shaded river beds, in bloom with the Darling Pea, which may make Menindee a mecca of the tourist in the future.

 Remember the Legend

Once you pick the flower from the Darling Pea, you stay for seven or you must return. 

The Menindee Rail Bridge

 The  Railway/road bridge  over the Darling River at Menindee was opened in 1927.  A feature of the bridge was its dual use as a road bridge.  There were few incidents of vehicles bumping into trains during this share period.  For the bridge users it was not uncommon to wait half an hour for a train to cross the bridge, impeding their progress, only to have the train to be particularly long and block the bridge whilst it stopped at the station.

The bridge was built with a counterweight for the opening section to allow paddle steamers to pass on the river.  However in the late 1960’s when a much higher Indian Pacific service was commissioned the counter weight had to be removed.  The last paddle steamer had come past Menindee in 1942, so the opening section was no longer required.

Unfortunately for a local contractor who tendered for the counterweights removal, the bridge builders had included an extraordinary amount of railway ‘dogs’ (Spikes) as reinforcement.  The considerable extra work caused his profits to disappear.

A  new road bridge was  built over the river near  the corner of Nora and Cadell St and officially opened in 1976 so the old bridge has only been used by the railway ever since.

Menindee War Memorials