The Cameron Descent
by Tony Bates, Swan Canoe Club
Sunday, 1st June
We arose to the jungle dew, packed up camp and then sat down to rice noodles, eggs and baked beans. Today was a test for all three categories which consisted of single paddle craft, double paddle craft and the six man inflatable rafts.
We had eight main rapid sections to contend with, varying from not so technical Grade 2 ones to technical Grade 3 verging on Grade 4. With the water level the lowest so far of all years of the Cameron Descent, information was scarce about the rapids except for Rapid 4 which was hazardous due to an exposed tree trunk and portaging was recommended. Rescue teams would be on site to aid us further as to dangers and direction.
Anyway, 9 am, the start gun sounded and the K2s were off with Paul Genovesi and Daryl Long looking very much the favourites, followed by the K1s and then the raft teams. The wide open sections of river forced us to cross from left to right to find deeper channels as well as to avoid the hidden sand bars that were not visible with the silty brown water.
We approached Rapid 1 and decided to hop out for a clearer inspection as the large rocks made it difficult to see from water level. We negotiated our way through and got the feel for the river. We found the rapid sections to be fast flowing with converging water because of the large rock formations. Some tight turning skills were a definite advantage.
It was great to be paddling good rapids in hot, humid weather with warm water, unlike the Avon! The banks were a little further away with spectacular dense rainforest with the growth finding its way to the water's edge. Elephant ear look-alike lilies grew in abundance. The scenes were just spectacular and this was the evidence of how remote and untouched this part of Malaysia was.
After at least three swims (except Colin Thorpe) and a couple of portages we found ourselves at the end of Day One. K.G. (Kampong = village) Harung was a little more civilised than the kampong we had started from, Tiat. This village was accessible by long boat only and the extras they had there was a sign of this.
Unfortunately Daryl and Paul had damaged their K2, finishing Day One by raft, so the rest of us were happy to get through unscathed.
Lunch was served, again traditional village cooking with rice, chicken, fish and a few little extras. I found myself pushing aside the fish heads and chicken livers that were buried in the rice. I must say, though, the food was very tasty and nutritious and it just reminded me we were in a different country mingling with a different culture.
End of Day One presentations were given by the Deputy Prime Minister of Malaysia, Uab Dato'Seri Anwar Ibrahim. Phew! These guys have some bonza names.
The heat of day had set in and we sat perched hand made bamboo bench seats. Gerry Post was the only one with his full luggage kit. We were waiting for ours yet to arrive from Kavla Medang by long boat. In the meantime, Simon Thorpe made use of his pocket knife to create old fashioned whisky tumblers from delpeted water bottles. Gerry kindly shared two bottles of his duty free whisky which we drank with our rationed bottled water and a drop of Gerry's weak cordial. Socialising was high on the agenda, with the Kiwis and the English guys joining us for a drop or two. As the day turned to night stories and laughter soaked up the atmosphere whilst the background sky lit up with random bolts of lightening. Some drizzle of rain came but we were nicely sheltered by the canopy of jungle. We had dinner and a few rums which Simon provided after our luggage arrived. It was dry clothes and into the tent for us for a good night's sleep.
It must have been nearly midnight when local villagers broke into a traditional Malay dance, thumping bamboo poles on the bamboo matting in their above ground huts. I later found out that this was a welcome to the visitors to their village and they would not have been offended if we had joined them.
Monday, 2nd June &endash; Today was to be all flat water and would take us through picturesque rainforest, aboriginal settlements, steep gorges and eventually into the tranquility of a Malay village, Kavla Madang, on the banks of the Upper Lipis River.
The raft teams left first, followed by the K1s and then the K2s. We could see a distinct decline in the river as we made our way downstream. Some sections of the river narrowed and we found ourselves paddling through tunnels of vegetation. The rainforest's upper canopy had grown together from bank to bank over the years. Tree trunks displayed varieties of ferns growing upon them. (Somewhat different to Upper Swan Bridge to Hind's Reserve.) The sun's rays filtered through the foliage finding their way down to glisten off the water's surface. It certainly took the mind off the thirty odd kilometres we had to paddle to the finish.
The river opened up towards the end with more villages scattered along its banks. Children practised their English as they greeted us with words of encouragement.
The boundaries of life normal to us were now evident. The Cameron Descent '97 finish banner came into sight and Colin and I agreed to cross at the same time.
The organisers waited for the last of the competitors to arrive, then got on with the presentations. First, second and third places in the raft category all went to Malaysian teams. I might add that these guys are keen white water rafters. The K2 class went to two Malay paddlers. K1 class third place went to W.A.'s John Igloi from Ascot Kayak Club in a downriver boat, 2nd place went to a Malay paddler, also in a downriver boat and first place went to New Zealander, Steve, who paddled a Wavehopper.
We had all had a great experience with pleasant memories of the last week. The organisation and hospitality towards us was faultless and they made our trip very worthwhile. The Malaysians were quietly friendly and welcomed us wherever we went.
Good luck to future Cameron Descent participants, you won't be disappointed.