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Glacier National Park (Days 47 to 51)
Day 47 - East Glacier!Day 48 - Glacier National Park! (Going to the Sun Road - second to none!)
Day 49 - Glacier National Park! (Many Glacier and Babb - "thank you, thank you!")
Day 50 - Portland - Oregon! (Mount Hood)
Day 51 - Portland - Oregon! (Amtrak South)
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Day 47 - Tuesday 16 September
East Glacier
Yesterday evening in Seattle, I boarded the Amtrak Empire Builder to travel to East Glacier in Montana.
From first light the views were quite spectacular. We were in the Rocky Mountains - traveling up a valley with high peaks on both sides. The rivers were flowing with crystal clear, mountain blue/green water. Unfortunately, it was still raining.
I stole this photo from an Amtrak brochure. At danger points, the track is covered to protect against rock slides.
The train passed over the continental divide at Maria's Pass. At around 5,200 feet, this is the lowest point on the divide from Canada to New Mexico. After crossing the divide the change in vegetation was dramatic! It stopped raining and the country changed from green forest to golden grasslands with very few trees.
As we neared East Glacier, a light snow cover could be seen on the mountain tops. After alighting from the train I was presented with a magnificent view of snow capped mountains. It was quite brisk and the day was overcast but quite clear.
I made my way to the East Glacier Hostel which was about 1/4 mile walk from the station. It was a wooden lodge with the sleeping quarters above a general store. I checked in and cleaned up a bit before having a bit of lunch.
Upon the advice of the hostel owner, I went for a walk up to the local cemetery (about 1 mile) to see some "nice" views. I wasn't all that impressed so I pushed on down a rough car track towards some higher country. Before long, I branched off to a walking trail and made it to some higher ground. It was raining intermittently but I kept walking deeper and deeper into wooded areas, passing a couple of small lakes. When I made it to a clear area, to my surprise and shear delight, a spectacular view opened up before me.
Walking on I noticed a large paw print in some mud. It looked like a big cat's paw. I started to feel quite frightened. I was walking a lot further than I had planned and I was walking alone - not a good thing to do in these parts apparently. I reached the boundary of Glacier National Park where there were "bear warning" signs. This added to my anxiety. I was in a wooded area and could see a high point about 1/2 mile on so I decided to push on. At one stage I passed a steel pole that was a marker indicating that this was Black Feet Indian country.
I reached the high point and sat for quite a while enjoying the splendid views of the mountains, south across the Flat River Valley and the prairie in the distance. All the time I was looking over my shoulder for any wild life that might be around!
I took another route home which was more direct but it was very muddy. I got quite wet and it was tough going. I arrived back at the hostel late in the afternoon. I was exhausted after my 15km(9mile) walk. Before dinner I booked a hire car at the shop across the road.
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Day 48 -Wednesday 17 September
Going to the Sun Road
Lucky I had booked the car. When I picked it up there were about 7 people who were looking to rent a car but they had all gone! There were four young British backpackers who were staying at the lodge and I asked them if they would like to accompany me. They said they would and agreed to pay some of the costs of the car. We set off at about 9:30am having decided to drive along the "Going to the Sun Road" from east to west.
We called into Two Medicine. Even though it was overcast and occasionally raining, there were frequent photo stops as the views were spectacular! I'll let the photos talk for themselves! It was then on to St Mary for a cafe latte before heading into the park.
Once again we made frequent stops to enjoy and photograph the superb views! (I'm running out of superlatives!) The four young brits were great company. We had a lot of fun.
We stopped off at Logan Pass (the highest car crossing of the Continental Divide). There were quite a few people around because there was a bear close by. The rangers had set up a telescope for a better view. We went for a short hike up the Hidden Lake trail. It was snowing lightly as we gained height. We passed the point where the bear had earlier crossed the path. Its paw prints could be clearly seen in the snow.
We crossed the continental divide and reached a vantage point overlooking Hidden Lake. I was blown away by the views! I was feeling quite emotional. This is what I had come away for. I felt privileged to be able to experience and enjoy such a place. Apparently, this part of the Rockies is only matched by the Canadian Rockies just across the border to the north.
We returned to the Information Centre and then continued our drive down the western side of the divide. Again the scenery was spectacular!
It started raining and we more-or-less drove straight back to East Glacier making short stops at Lake McDonald and West Glacier. We crossed the Continental Divide again at Maria's Pass and almost immediately the rain stopped and we were in dry prairie again. Remarkable!
That evening, I had dinner with the young Brits just before they caught the train. there was much light hearted and jovial conversation. I really enjoyed my self.
What a great day!
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Day 49 -Thursday 18 September
Many Glacier
The Chinook!!! It blew like hell last night but when I awoke it was all calm. On the mountains there was a lot of fresh snow. The day was dull and overcast - low cloud. I checked out of the hostel and went to book the train to Portland. While I was on the phone it started to snow - just a light dusting at first and then larger flakes. On my way out of town I stopped to talked to some of the other hostlers and had this photo taken. The East Glacier Hostel can be seen in the other photo.
I drove up to St Mary again and stopped for a coffee. I then made my way to Babb (which just happens to be my surname - hence this photo!).
Babb is a bit of a "nothing" town but it marks the turn-off to Many Glacier. I arrived at Many Glacier at noon and had a rather large lunch. It was snowing heavily and visibility was virtually nil. After lunch I decided to go for a walk anyway and put on my gear. Well! What luck! It stopped snowing and slowly cleared to reveal spectacular scenery! I was surrounded by huge snow-covered mountains. It was the most beautiful sight I had ever seen, and one of the most wonderful feelings I have experienced. I was all alone on the walk trail and it was silent except for the occasional chunk of snow falling from a tree.
I had another great experience on this hike. As I was walking, I noticed a bear just above the tree line. I decided to leave the trail and walk up a ridge to see if I could get a closer look. I lost it for a while but after much effort (it was very steep) I spotted it again. I got to within 200 to 300 metres of it and called out to attract its attention. (I was quite safe because there was a deep ravine between me and the bear.) It stood up and looked over but then went back to its foraging - and occasionally stopping to check out where I was.
I stayed there for quite a while mainly to get my breath back but also to just take in the scenery. I felt privileged to be in this place and I said "thank-you" to whoever might be listening!
It was time to leave! I was due at the station in a couple of hours. It was now raining and most of the snow I had been walking in was gone. I drove back to East Glacier, returned the car and made my way to the station.
The train was about an hour late so I went and bought a couple of beers and some crisps. I was sitting on the platform enjoying my drink and thought it would make a good photo. I went to get my camera but, you guessed, it wasn't there! Some quick thinking and I realised that I had left in the hire car!! Panic set in! I ran back to the store! Yes! There it was under the arm rest! Lucky! My lucky day all round!
Well! Here it is! The photo!
The evening train ride from East to West Glacier was again breathtaking! The snow-covered mountains slowly faded away as night fell. I wrote in my journal, "I feel good! I feel happy! I feel this (the trip) has all been so worthwhile!"
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Day 50 -Friday 19 September
Portland Oregon
Not much sleep last night! I dropped off just before a long stop at Spokane (12:30am). After that I couldn't settle.
At first light we entered the Columbia River Gorge - traveling on the north side of the river. The hills on the southern side were treeless and beautiful colours as the sun came up. The gorge deepened and became quite rugged on both sides. All of a sudden, over the cliffs, a huge snow capped mountain appeared - the snow lit up by the rising sun. I think it was Mt Hood! The whole trip down the gorge and through the Cascades was really picturesque and I sat glued to the window all the way!
The train arrived at Portland 5 minutes ahead of schedule. We made up a lot of time! I thought that it was a fast trip - the fastest trip on Amtrak so far!
I caught a bus to the HI Portland in Hawthorne Boulevard but I couldn't check in until 4pm. I did my washing at the laundry across the road. I was really tired but I went to town and did quite a lot of walking. Portland is a small city and a little like my state's city of Perth. The place I enjoyed most was Washington Park. There were some great gardens and great views.
After booking my ticket to San Francisco, I made my way back to the hostel.
Late in the afternoon, I walked down Hawthorne Street which is lined with coffeehouses, boutique breweries, antique gift shops, bookshops, bakeries, etc. I sat in the Hawthorne Street Ale House and sipped a very nice India Pale Ale. After that, I had a very quiet night back at the hostel.
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Day 51 -Saturday 20 September
Portland Oregon (Amtrak south)
I had a very slack day today. I checked out and caught the bus to Union Station and stored my bags. I walked around town for a while and found Powell's Bookshop and bought a couple of local books for my son.
I found my way to the Saturday Market - one of the better ones I've seen. Most of the goods on sale were quite unusual and of great quality - jewelry, photography, woodwork, clothes, etc.
The train departed at 3pm and the trip out of Portland and into the Cascades was again spectacular. I could see snow-capped mountains right up until dark. I was sitting next to a very nice English lass who was touring after spending time working in a summer camp. She was good company.
I went to the dining car for dinner and sat with three other singles. One was a woman from south of LA who was the aunt of the guy who developed the CPM operating system. He lost (or gave) all of his ideas to Bill Gates & co. Apparently he died a very bitter man in his 50's. Now his wife and the rest of the family are spending all of his money (....so the story goes!!)
Tomorrow, California!!