Day 11 - Irkutsk
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Day 10 Sunday 10 August
Train to Irkutsk
The train departed Ulaan Batar at 9:30pm Saturday night. The sun was still up so we were able to watch the scenery for a while before going to bed. I didn't have a good night's sleep at all. I was feeling sick and the train made frequent stops. I must have dropped off about 3am but was awoken at about 5am by traders banging on the windows of the train. We were stationary at the Mongolian border town of Sukh Baatar for about 2.5 hours for immigration and customs checks.
From Sukh Baatar only two carriages went on to the Russian border town of Naushki - about half an hour. We arrived at 9am and left at 3pm - 6 hours just sitting around. The Russian customs check was fascinating! At Sukh Baatar our carriage filled with Mongolian traders and all their wares. Stuff was going everywhere. One young girl tried on several occasions to leave a couple of plastic bags filled with canned food. However, the provodnitsa (female Russian attendant) kept removing them.
One of the Mongolians was caught with undeclared goods. It took about an hour to sort it out - he lost the lot and had to pay a fine. When the customs officers disappeared, stuff started to appear from everywhere - from under the floor, from in and behind baggage, etc. T-shirts, bags, canned food and much more. All the women had about three layers of clothes on and wore good shoes. One of the women who had moved in with us temporarily removed an Adidas track suit, t-shirts and a good pair of gym boots. They were all re-packaged into plastic bags for sale in the markets. The provodnitsa received a bag of tinned food for her help in providing the under floor compartment and by turning a blind eye!
At Naushki there was a small market where we bought some bananas, oranges and water. Joe had some Ruble. The weather was fine and warm and we just strolled around enjoying our first experiences of Siberia - always keeping the train in sight and within running distance!. Naushki was small and obviously a very poor town. The market only had very basic items. Meat, laid out on hessian bags, was being sold out of the back of a panel van.
We pulled out of Naushki at 3pm and traveled down the valley of the Selenga river all afternoon and evening. The sun was shining brightly and the scenery was just wonderful. There were small villages with timber cottages. Potatoes and cabbages were growing in just about every back and front yard. In the fields the locals were gathering hay for winter feed.
The villages were picturesque but the larger towns were very run down and there was scrap everywhere in abandoned factories. I stood by the window for hours watching the wonderful scenery. I had to keep reminding myself just where we were - a long way from everywhere! I loved the feeling of space and isolation.
We reached Ulan Ude at about 10pm, joining the Trans-Siberian line. I was still very sick with an upset stomach and now a full blown cold. I was feeling miserable. The water I had bought in Ulaan Batar had turned a yucky yellow colour. It was no wonder I was feeling sick!
It was a very slow trip! The train was stopping every 10 - 20 minutes!
Day 11 Monday 11 August
Irkutsk
We arrived at Irkutsk at 8:30am. All morning we kept looking for Lake Baikal but we must have passed close to it while it was still dark.
All six of us Aussies - Bobby, Joe, Klaus, Werner, Brenda and I - decided to share a taxi to the hotel. I have would have rather walked the 2 km. Klaus negotiated a price of 60. He said it was 60,000 Rubles but I thought it was $US60. Despite me asking him to, he wouldn't verify the price. Of course, it was $60 and after a lot of fuss we paid $30 for the 2 km ride. At the hotel, I watched the very upset driver walk over to one of the hotel guards for a rather animated chat. I was actually quite afraid that we would be targeted by either the police or, worse, some other group.
We checked into the Hotel Irkutsk which was a bit drab but comfortable. Klaus, Werner, Brenda and Joe opted t go straight to Lake Baikal. I couldn't think of anything worse than a bus ride just then. Besides, I was still feeling sick and needed to be close to toilets. The $US35 seemed a bit steep also!
Bobby wanted to look at churches but I wasn't to keen on that idea. I felt like being alone but I thought it would be helpful for both of us to go together. It was overcast with the occasional shower of rain as we set off and walked around the Angara River towards the White House. We paused at the Trans-Siberian Obelisk to take this photo. Irkutsk was called "The Paris of the East" and this scene looked quite the part.
Major intersection in Irkutsk! We had coffee in the corner building!
Click for bigger picture!
The White House (former residence of the Governor of Irkutsk) and the Irkutsk Museum were grand old buildings but quite weathered and run down. The museum was closed. We walked up Karl Marx "ulitsa" and called into a cafe for tea and cake. I was quite hungry despite my illness. Language was a problem. I felt uneasy not knowing one word of Russian. We walked through a couple of thriving markets. I really wanted to photograph the people at the food market but didn't know what their reaction would be.
One of the highlights of Irkutsk for me was walking the streets of the fascinating "izbas" (log houses) with their colourful window frames and shutters and ornate eaves.
We found an outdoor cafe and had a bite to eat before heading back to the hotel. I had a short nap.
At about 4:30pm I went out again alone just to look around the town, browse in some shops and generally relax. I really enjoyed this time alone. One of the pleasant surprises offered by Irkutsk is the beauty of the women. They are mostly very attractive, slim and dress beautifully. I fact, everyone dresses beautifully.
We all had dinner together in the hotel. It was too cold and wet to go out. Anna, a Russian friend of Werner and Brenda, joined us and it was really interesting talking to her about Siberia and her work with the indigenous people of the Arctic.