Sendiri's Journey "Around the World in 70 Days"Saint Petersburg (Days 18 to 20) Day 18 - Arrival in Saint Petersburg
Day 19 - Saint Petersburg (Hermitage)
Day 20 - Leaving Russia
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Day 18 - Monday 18 August
Arrival in Saint PetersburgI awoke to a beautiful sunrise over misty fields. The countryside was very flat and there were many small log cabins and more birch. The trip overnight was very pleasant. The train ride was quite smooth compared to the Baikal Express. I had a Russian and a young Hong Kong couple in my cabin.
The train arrived at Saint Petersburg at 8:30am. There was a short taxi ride to the hotel and I met the others there - we had travelled on different trains. The route to the hotel was via a pretty run down part of the city - the roads were unbelievably bad. We couldn't check in until 12 noon so we all went for a walk up Nevskiy Prospekt towards the city centre. There were no high rise buildings at all - they were all very old and in varying states of repair. There are only three buildings in this main avenue that were built in the 20th Century. Many of the buildings were run down but there was also restoration work going on.
We only walked a short way before turning back. We made our way to Alexander Nevsky Lavra (Monastery) and cemetery (just opposite our hotel). This was a fascinating place. In the cemetery many famous Russians are buried. Some of the names I noted were Borodin, Mussorgsky, Tchaikovsky, Rubinstein, Dostoevsky. Nearby, the Holy Trinity Cathedral was something to behold. It is the main functioning place of worship in Saint Petersburg. It had a real medieval feel about it and the dome, murals and general architecture were breathtaking. Photography was discouraged so I have no photographs to show.
We checked in about noon and then we all went for a long walk up Nevsky Prospekt. I found a Swiss Air office and confirmed my flight out (lucky I did because I had my days mixed up). We stopped for a drink and then continued walking to the Hermitage - another breathtaking sight - as were the square (Dvortsovaya Square), the Alexandrijskiy Stolp and the General Staff building.
The State Hermitage
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General Staff Building on the opposite side of
Dvortsovaya Square from the Hermitage
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I left the others and caught the Metro back to the hotel. The escalators to the underground were massive! I had a short sleep.
Late in the day Klaus, Werner, Bobby and I again walked up Nevsky Prospekt to the Anichkov Bridge. Brenda had gone to the ballet at the Alexandrinskiy Theatre nearby and we were to meet her after the show. The sun was still quite high even though it was well after 7pm (the long summer days at 60 degrees N was a new experience for me). We had a meal and a beer at a sidewalk pectopah (restoran). Again, this was quite an experience. Some of the locals did not approve of such bourgeoise behaviour and let us know either verbally or by their angry looks. I soon felt quite uncomfortable. However, the action that took place over next few minutes quickly made me forget.
Nevskiy prospekt quite near to the police raid!
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Two cars (one a police car) pulled up outside the cafe. Six heavily armed police/soldiers wearing balaclavas and as many plain clothed men poured out of the cars. Led by a well built woman (also wearing a balaclava) with a huge dog, they all entered our pectopah. We sat there stunned! Klaus who is ex-military said to us: "If I say run. Run!" We were all very nervous but after a few minutes, they all came out of the pectopah, poured back into the cars and drove off! It wasn't until the next day that we found out that just at that spot in Nevsky Prospekt, a senior government official had been assassinated that morning!
Following our meal, we caught the Metro back to the hotel. I was exhausted. I was also feeling quite depressed and homesick.
Day 19 - Tuesday 19 August
A quiet day in Saint PetersburgI spent the morning and early afternoon at the State Hermitage - one of the world's biggest art and culture museums. It was quite a long wait to get in. Tour groups had priority and my queue moved very slowly indeed. Once in, I just wandered aimlessly. The various rooms of the palace were spectacular. It is difficult to describe the opulence of the place. I enjoyed just being there. Seeing the various collections and classics was a bonus. I saw Leonard da Vinci's 'Madonna and Child', works of Rembrandt, Picasso, Monet, Matisse, Renoir, etc, etc. I walked and walked until I was exhausted.
I spent the rest of the afternoon resting at the hotel. One of my feet was very sore. I just lounged around drinking coffee and a couple of beers waiting to meet the others.
Later, we all went out for dinner as this was out last night in Russia and we were all heading off in different directions tomorrow. We found a really nice restaurant (pectopah) and I ordered beef stroganoff. It was the best meal I had eaten while in Russia. Once again it was expensive. Although I was always quite frugal in my ordering, some of the others were more carefree in their spending. This was a major disadvantage of being in a group but the company and companionship far outweighed this inconvenience.
After the meal we all walked back down Nevskiy Prospekt towards the hotel. It was a cool, clear night and a full moon was shining down the street. We stopped for a coffee at an up market cafe - US$3.50 for a cappuccino. It was a great evening. We all had a good time - everyone was in high spirits (the vodka was taking effect!)
The weather in Saint Petersburg had been perfect - warm, sunny days (around 20 C) and cool clear nights.
Day 20 - Wednesday 20 August
Leaving RussiaI said goodbye to Werner, Brenda, Klaus and Joe who all left for the airport at 10am. Bobby was spending another day at the Hermitage and we also said our goodbyes. I packed my bags and then caught the Metro to town again and walked around until about 12 noon.
Looking across the Neva River
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I strolled along the Neva River and then made my way to the amazing Spasa-na-krovi Church. This day just happened to be the one that it was opened for worship for the first time in many years. There was a very long queue. I kept walking around the Marsovo Pole (Mars Field) and then back to Nevskiy Prospekt along the Fontanka Canal before heading back to the hotel. I checked out and caught the Metro to Moskovskaya where I found a taxi to take me to the airport. Saint Petersburg airport was very basic.
Spasa-na-krovi Church
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I was feeling sad to be leaving Russia but I was looking forward to being alone for a while after the "group" travel across Russia. However, I was also feeling a little apprehensive. I was now on my own. I realised the benefits of having travelling companions. Bobby, Klaus, Werner, Brenda and Joe had become good friends and we had shared many wonderful experiences. I especially enjoyed the company of Bobby and Klaus. Bobby and I had spent most of the trip travelling together after we met at Beijing Airport. She was a lot better "read" than I and she helped me with many of the historical aspects and "culture" of the places we visited (I am a bit lacking culturally!). Klaus was great fun and also a wealth of "street-wise" information!
Flying from Saint Petersburg to Zurich was wonderful. We flew over the Baltic Sea and States and then Germany. I could see Berlin in the distance. This was my first time in Europe but I wasn't stopping! The colours of the patchwork landscape were fantastic, especially as we flew lower on approach to Zurich airport (green, yellow, orange and brown). The approach to Zurich was spectacular - high hills covered in deep green forests, small villages and a patchwork of bright colours. We flew low over Strasshausen(?) where the Rhine falls. There was a 2 hour stop over in Zurich. It was rather frustrating being in Switzerland and not being able to see it!
The flight to London took off just on dusk. I was able to see the coast of France and some of SE England. The ground looked like a quilt of shades of green.
From Heathrow airport I took the Air Bus to Paddington and by a stroke of luck I found my hotel (I didn't have a map and I was completely disoriented). I checked in, had a beer at a pub nearby and then collapsed into bed, exhausted!
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