Martha's Vineyard (Days 26 to 29)
Day 26 - Boston to Martha's Vineyard! (Meeting Maggie)
Day 27 - Martha's Vineyard! (Gay Head and The Black Dog)
Day 28 - Martha's Vineyard! (Gingerbread Houses and Edgartown)
Day 29 - Martha's Vineyard to Washington DC!
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Day 26 - Tuesday 26 August
Boston to Martha's Vineyard
I was up early and walked over to the Farrington for breakfast. I was served a cold muffin and a glass of orange juice. The situation was a little bizarre - a bit difficult to explain. I then walked back to the apartment, packed and said goodbye to those awake.
I caught the train to Harvard University and walked around the charming old buildings and lush green surrounds. I grabbed a coffee and then caught the train to South Station where I boarded the bus to Walls Hole - one and a half hours south of Boston. From there I caught the 3pm ferry to Martha's Vineyard.
It was a magnificent day - sunny and cool - and I felt great. The ferry ride was only 45 minutes and the views of the "Federal" style houses and mansions was an experience I had been looking forward to for many years. (Cedar, shake, saltbox homesteads I read later.) The ferry pulled in at the Oak Bluffs terminal. I immediately caught a bus to the hostel which is located in the centre of the Island (about 8 miles from Oak Bluffs).
Hosteling International Hostel - Martha's Vineyard
Click for bigger picture!
Link to HI Martha's Vineyard!
I had to wait 'til the hostel opened at 5pm. After checking in I walked about a mile to the West Tilbury General Store to buy some supplies. It was one of the most pleasant walks I had been on since being away - peaceful and extemely picturesque. My only concern at this time was that the hostel was a long way from anywhere else on the Island and I wasn't sure how I was going to get around.
Later, while cooking dinner, I met Maggie - a college student from Connecticut. We sat and talked for a couple of hours about life in Australia and America. Maggie was bright and happy and we joked and laughed in between the more serious talk. I was also feeling happy. I was enjoying hostel life mainly because of the people I was meeting.
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Day 27 - Tuesday 27 August
Martha's Vineyard
After completing our chores, a group of us decided to catch the bus to Gay Head at the south west corner of the island. Maggie, Liene (from Latvia), Anke (from Germany), Fiona (from England), myself, and a bit later, Jon (from New York City) spent a few hours walking and lazing on a beach at the base of the colourful Gay Head cliffs.
At the beach - Gay Head, Martha's Vineyard. Click for bigger picture!
It was quite windy on the main beach which also happened to be a nudist beach. Where we were was quite pleasant although I found the water a little brackish. While we were walking we passed many small totems built out of some of the many small rocks on the beach. We all spent some time building our own totems.
Anke building her totem - Gay Head, Martha's Vineyard. Click for bigger picture!
About 2pm we walked back to the kiosk area. Along the way there were some frightful sights. Most of the nude bathers were men of all shapes and sizes showing off in all their glory. No photos thankfully!
We grabbed a cheap (and pretty awful) meal. Somewhere along the track we lost Liene and Anke so Maggie, Fiona and I decided to hitch a ride into Vineyard haven. Maggie was keen to return to her childhood haunts! At one stage we were picked up by a very nice couple who drove us to their "hideaway" home before taking us to the only real vineyard on Martha's Vinyard. It wasn't all that impressive, in fact it looked like a rather amateurish operation.
We were lucky enough to be driven into Vineyard Haven. This small sea-side settlement was really charming - very nautical! We went to the Black Dog Restaurant - I was really hanging out for a beer - but there was a queue a mile long. We did buy some T-shirts at the general store though! After looking for a bar for quite a while, Maggie suddenly realised that this was a "dry" town. I was disappointed and had to settle for a coffee instead.
Vineyard Haven, Martha's Vineyard. Click for bigger picture!
We hitched a ride back to the hostel - a nice young guy who was about to enter a seminary gave us a lift. "What a waste!" cried Maggie!
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Day 28 - Tuesday 28 August
Martha's Vineyard
There was a lot of snoring last night. The dormitory was full with a mob of "Wayfarers". I didn't get much sleep at all.
Over breakfast I was trying to decide whether or not to stay another day. Maggie was leaving but she said I should stay at least one more day and go to Edgartown and Oak Bluffs. Liene and Anke were going to hire bikes and I asked if I could join them. I didn't feel like exploring on my own. I said goodbye to Maggie and she rode her bike to Oak Bluffs to catch the ferry. I hitched a ride into Oak Bluffs and met Anke and Liene at a bike rental shop. We hired some good bikes for $12.
By chance, I spotted Maggie. We found a cafe and all sat and had a coffee. I still have fond memories of the four of us from all parts of the world, sitting in one of the most beautiful places in the world, just relaxing and chatting over a nice coffee brew. This moment was the best of my journey so far.
The ferry was about to leave so I said goodbye to Maggie once more. It was a sad moment for me. This is one aspect of backpacking that is so unique. You meet so many people and form special friendships in just a few hours. All too soon you must say goodbye knowing that you will never see most of them ever again. (Fortunately, I have been able to remain in contact with Maggie, Liene and Anke and I have even seen Maggie again when I visited Boston in 1998.)
Anke, Liene and I set off for South Beach which is on the south coast of the island just west of Edgartown. It was a really nice ride down the east coast and then into Edgartown. What a beautiful place! I saw some of the most beautiful houses and shops in this old port town. These are just some of the many photos I took. (I think Martha's Vineyard is one of the "must see" places in the world - I went back in 1998!).
We spent a few hours at the beach. The wind dropped and the sun came out and it turned into the most perfect day. The sand was whiter and the water clearer than at Gay Head. This was a family beach devoid of unsightly nude men. Much nicer!
At about 3:30pm we set off back to Edgartown. Jon had joined us by then. I was desperate for a beer so we found a cafe-bar where I enjoyed a couple of cold ones while the others had coffee and tea. By this time the sun was just setting. We rode down to the water and took some photos.
We had about 8 miles to ride back to the hostel and it was getting dark. We didn't have lights nor helmets which was a bit of a worry. Fortunately, for a good part of the way we could ride on a cycle path just off the road. It was a really nice ride home. Liene and I chatted as we rode while Anke rode off like a tri-athelete and then waited for us to catch up. At times it was really dark and quiet as the path wound in and out of the dense oak forest. Once again - this was a memorable time.
We arrived back at the hostel in the pitch black at just after 8pm. After cooking dinner (spaghetti again!) I took a shower under the stars in the outside shower (it was really busy inside). I was beat! Just as I was going to bed, four of the Brit guys I met in Boston walked in so I got up and we talked until curfew at 11pm. they we a little upset at the remoteness of the hostel, no liquor and the 11pm curfew. It didn't worry me. I just wanted to sleep!
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Day 29 - Tuesday 29 August
Martha's Vineyard
It was raining this morning. The bikes had to be returned by 10am. I was in a bit of trouble because I was leaving and I had to ride with my pack on. I managed to get hold of a large garbage bag which fitted over me and my pack.
Liene, Anke and I rode into Oak Bluffs. It was a miserable day and it us took quite some time. The rain stopped as soon as we returned our bikes! We walked around for while and visited the famous "ginger bread houses" in Oak Bluffs. After a coffee, Liene, Anke and I said our goodbyes and I went to wait for the ferry.
'Ginger bread houses' - Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard. Click for bigger picture!
Martha's Vinyard Links!
Chamber of Commerce!
Vineyard Gazette Online!
vineyard.net
Boston to Washington DC
I slept for most of the journey back to Boston. It was still raining and quite bleak out. I arrived in Boston about 5pm - bought my ticket for the 8pm train to Washington DC - and then went for a delicious Malaysian meal at a restaurant not far from the station.
On the train I had two seats to myself until NYC so I slept pretty well. After 1am I only slept on-and-off until the dawn arrival in Washington.
