Welcome to my Racers help page.
Here I hope to put down what I've learned about driving the cars in Porsche Unlimited hereafter known as PU.

With a little bit of luck, there should be something here to help out even the more experienced racers.
If you wish to link to this site, contact me at [XR]Mikk and I will place a link allowing people to return to your site.
Other places you can go for more information/help

If you are new to the on-line racing scene, there are things that you will need to know. Many of the experienced racers use 'pit language' when they are talking in the pits between racing and it can be very confusing for the new racer, especially when they start talking about how their car is setup. Below is a list of words you might see and what they mean.
If a car has a * after the name, it means that it is 'owned' and is probably modified for better handling/speed.
You can 'buy' and 'modify' most cars by playing the 'Evolution' mode of the game.
GL= Good Luck    GLA= Good Luck All    GR= Great Race     GRA or GRALL= Great Race All    BBL= Be Back Later    GRG= Garage    PLS= Please
RDY UP= Ready UP (hit the 'ready' button)    KICK or BOOT= Eject from the game.    HACK= A car that has been altered beyond what the game is capable of. 
STOCK= An unmodified car.    DOWNLOAD CAR= Any one of four *extra* cars that can be downloaded from EA (see next section)   
C/D= Collision/Damage. In *most* pits, you can be fairly sure that 'collision' and 'damage' will be set to OFF.    HWG= Here We Go.
MTFBWY= May The Force Be With You. Not seen often and generally only from a specific racer.
PING= How long it takes for your PC to send information to the EA server and back again. This is shown in milliseconds and is shown on the right hand side of your name in a 'Pit'. (someone correct me if I'm wrong!)
RAIL or RAILING= The use of guard rails, buildings and other roadside objects to help get a car around a corner.
Technical Terms used for car setup descriptions
D/F= Downforce. Example: d/f  80/10 means the car has a Downforce of 80 on the rear and 10 on the front.
TP= Tyre Pressure. Example: TP 45/45 means the car has it's rear wheels set at 45 and it's front wheels set at 45. This is generally how most people have their tyres set. 
CR= Close Ratio gearbox
HS= High Speed gearbox
LS= Low Speed gearbox
GEARS= Gear Ratio. Normally used to refer to the Gear Ratios a racer is using on a Race Class car. Example; "What GEARS are you using?" Note that when someone answers this sort of question they will use big numbers, for example -50 means -0.50, +50 means +0.50.
BOX= Type of Gear Box. See CR, HS, LS for more information.
GEAR RATIOS: What are they?
A cars' drive train (what takes the power from the engine and makes it move) is made up of several sections, but the ones we are going to concentrate on here are the GEAR BOX and the DIFFERENTIAL.
In reference to the game PU and specifically the cars we are currently talking about, the GEAR BOX handles the gears 1 to 6 and Reverse, while the DIFFERENTIAL is known as 'FINAL'
The engine of a car is connected to it's GEAR BOX via an INPUT SHAFT and the GEAR BOX is connected to DIFFERENTIAL by another similar shaft, called a PROPELLER SHAFT. The DIFFERENTIAL is connected to the wheels by AXLES.
The RATIO is the number of turns the INPUT SHAFT (or engine) has to do to make the PROPELLER SHAFT turn once. For example, 1st gear in the GT1 is 2.60. This means the motor has to turn 2.60 times to make the PROPELLER SHAFT turn once. This is normally written as 2.60:1.
The RATIO of the DIFFERENTIAL is exactly the same thing. Example, the RATIO of the DIFFERENTIAL (or FINAL) in a GT1 is 3.44, which means the PROPELLER SHAFT has to turn 3.44 times to make the AXLES turn once. This is written as 3.44:1.
PU has many great cars available in the standard version of the game, but there are also a number of 'Download' cars that EA has made available to the public for free.
These cars are; the Porsche 928 GTS, Porsche 959, Porsche 911 GT2 and the Porsche 911 GT3.
These four cars can be gotten from here ----> http://www.needforspeed.com/porsche/pc/index.html
Having these four cars is nice, but, the files are fairly large and some people just don't know about them. The cars, once you have them, can not be bought and are only available as STOCK versions.
However, not having them can cause problems when entering a pit. If you enter a 'pit' where someone is driving a 'download' car and you don't have that particular car in your game, you will *NOT* be able to 'ready up'. The same thing will happen if you enter a pit and choose a 'download' car and someone in the pit doesn't have that car.
They will automatically become 'un-ready' and you *will* be asked to change your car.
HOW TO BEHAVE IN A PIT (or pittiquette)
Firstly, a definition of what a 'pit' is in the sense of on-line racing. It's a place that has been 'created' by a person, so that up to 7 other people can join and race with them.
The person who makes the 'pit' is in charge and is known as the 'Pit Boss'. What they say goes.
Sometimes, you will enter a pit and the 'Pit Boss' will say, "Players List". This means that each player in the order of the 'pit' (1 to 8) gets to choose a car/track combination. Most of the time it will be 2 races on each combo, then the next player down the list gets their turn. This can lead to you driving cars you like on tracks you hate and the other way around. When it comes to your turn, pick a car / track combo you enjoy driving. This form of racing is also one of the best ways to improve your driving skills. 
Always check the name of the pit!
If it says, "550 A @ Bahn", make sure you have a race ready 550 A and then go in, don't go in, select a GT1 and wait for the race to start. You *might* get away with it once, but you *will* be asked to change cars after the race.
When you enter a 'pit', the safest car to choose is the one the 'Pit Boss' is driving. If you don't have that car, look at what everyone else is driving and pick from those.
If you don't want to drive the car that everyone else is driving, ask if you can drive something else, but be polite! You are much more likely to get your wish if you are polite. The same thing goes for getting a track change, be polite.
If you are going to go to the "garage" to work on your car, let the 'Pit Boss' know, that way you won't get kicked out for not being 'ready'.
Being rude (e.g.. swearing), saying "gogogogogogogo" or similar, demanding a track and or car change and not being 'ready' until you get what you want.
Using an 'illegal' (hacked) car. Changing cars at the very last instant, so that you are driving a much faster car than everyone else. You may even be 'kicked' in the middle of the race for doing that.
There are a couple of things that you have no control over that may get you 'kicked' out of a pit, depending on the nature of the 'Pit Boss'.
Having a *very* high 'ping'. If your 'ping' goes up very high (e.g.. 9999 ) the 'Pit Boss' may wait for a bit to see if it goes down -or- they may just say, 'Look at his/her ping!' and 'kick' you out.
The same thing goes for people who take a long time coming back to the pit from a race after crossing the line, it may be by choice -or- it might be related to your 'ping'.
The thing to remember is that if this happens to you, the 'Pit Boss' does not have a problem with you, but your 'ping', so don't get upset.


We all know how to drive with an automatic gear box, right? When the voice says "GO", hit the accelerator and the box does the rest, leaving us to concentrate completely on our driving.
But once we move up to using a MANUAL gearbox, things change. You have to learn to do another couple of things at the same time as concentrating on your driving.
The tips below should give you a good idea of how to handle a manual gearbox.


With most of the cars, you have three different types of gearboxes, CLOSE RATIO (or CR), HIGH SPEED (or HS) and the LOW SPEED (or LS), as well as the 'stock' gear box.
As far as the LS and STOCK gearboxes go, nobody uses them, but these rules still apply.

The biggest thing about driving with a MANUAL gear box, is knowing when to change gear, whether up -or- down.

Changing Up Gears.The easiest way to figure out when to change gears, is to take note of how fast the car will go in each gear and change up 5 to 10 kmh *before* you reach that speed. Doing it this way will stop your engine from hitting the 'rev limiter' which can cause problems. The exception to this is of course, top gear.

Changing Down Gears.Doing this is very much the same as changing up, except for the fact that you change down a gear when your speed drops below the maximum speed of the lower gear.
Example: You are driving a car that can do 300 kmh in 6th gear (which you are in), but you have scraped a wall and your speed has dropped back to 180 kmh. You know that 4th is good for 200 kmh, so you change down to 4th gear and accelerate, changing up to 5th gear at 200kmh and then to 6th gear at 250kmh.

Braking and Gears.If you have ever watched a car race on TV and they have had a 'in car' camera, you will have seen the driver working his way down through the gears as he comes up to a corner. He is using the gear box to help him slow the car down so he can get around the corner. The most important things to remember when doing this is that it is a *very* good idea to be going in a straight line if possible *and* use the rules for Changing Down Gears, but do it a fraction early, you can lose a *lot* of speed very quickly if you get it right. If you get it wrong however, things get ugly very quickly.  

Spyder, Moby & GT1 gears.These three cars deserve a special mention, due to the fact that they are the only cars in game that have gearboxes that you can change the gear ratios in. Also, these three cars are the only ones that you can't add 'go faster' bits to. 'Tuning' the gearboxes for these cars can take a lot of time to get right and you will find that each type of track calls for a different set of gears, so it's a good idea to have 2 or even 3 cars of each.
There are 3 'ERAS'  used in PU. Each ERA is split into 3 'classes' plus a 'race' class. The first ERA is 'CLASSIC', the second is 'GOLDEN' and the third is 'MODERN'.
                                           picture A
Picture A is a screen shot of the "Set Up" screen in the garage. You can change the settings for the 'shocks' (shock absorbers) on the car, the steering, brakes, downforce and tyre pressures as well as adding 'go faster' parts to your car.
With the Spyder, Moby and GT1, you can change the 'gear ratios', but you can't change any parts.
Some of the terms that will be used in this section have already been discussed earlier on this page, but I will have to 'make up' a few to deal with the other settings.
RH= Ride Height    ST= Stiffness    TR= Travel    TOE= Toe in    BRAKE= Brake Balance    D/F= Downforce    TP= Tyre Pressure
Basic settings common to all cars
For most cars, the RH, ST, TR, TOE and BRAKE are the same or very close to each other. RH will almost always be fully to the left, while ST and TR will *always* be fully to the right. TOE will vary from car to car, but if you leave put it at a similar position to where it is in 'picture A', you should be okay. BRAKE should also be set in a similar position to 'picture A'.
Tyre Pressures - all cars
Tyre Pressures on the cars effects the performance, but only slightly or so it seems. Depending on who you talk to, different people will say to use different TP for different cars, but generally the best way to go is to put the TP at 45/45 (45 rear/ 45 front) or 44/45 (44 rear/45 front).
Downforce and performance
Downforce is an important part of the handling in the faster cars, starting from around the 'GOLDEN' Era class 2 cars. More D/F means better handling / roadholding, but, as with all things there are good things and bad things.
A lot of D/F will give you good/great handling, but it will cost you in top speed, but, on the other hand not having enough will give you more speed, but worse handling.
With the fast cars (GT1, '95 911 Turbo) you can gain up to 30 kmh if you use a very small amount of D/F, but if you can't keep it on the road you are not going to be competitive.
During my short time racing on-line, I have been told (and found out that it was true), that having a small amount of D/F on the front can help the handling of a car, but that having too much will slow it down quite a bit, even more than having a lot of D/F on the rear will.
So, for a basic D/F setting for 'GOLDEN' and 'MODERN' Era cars, use a D/F of 70/0 (70 rear/0 front) or 70/2 (70 rear/2 front).
As you get more experienced, you will find that you can reduce the amount of D/F you use on various cars and you will still be able to keep it on the road, but for now, these are good settings.
In this section, we will be dealing exclusively with the '56 550 A Spyder, '78 935/78 Coupe "Moby Dick" and the '98 911 GT1 Race Version.
Each Era has it's own "RACE" class cars, the "CLASSIC" Era has the Spyder, the "GOLDEN" Era has the Moby and the "MODERN" Era has the GT1, as well as the GT2 and GT3, but the GT2 & 3 are not tunable in any way, so we won't be dealing with them.
In picture B, you will again see the "Setup" page of the garage. This is a setup for a GT1. To the right of the screen, you will see a box with the heading, "Gear Ratios", highlighted with a blue box.
This consists of eight boxes, each with a '+' and a ' - ' sign. The boxes are labeled, from top to bottom, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, Reverse and Final.
When you first open the "Setup" page for one of the Race Cars we will be talking about, all of these should be set to zero ( 0.00 ).
The thing to remember when adjusting the gears, is that each gear will take you up to a certain speed and no further than that, depending on how it is adjusted.
For the purpose of this section we will be concentrating on the GT1, which is the car most "Newbies" like to drive because of the way it handles and it's speed.
A GT1 in 'STOCK' form, e.g.. no tuning at all, is capable of doing between 320kmh and 340kmh, but most people will only see those sorts of speeds on specific tracks.
However, a fully 'race tuned' GT1 is capable of speeds above 360kmh and I have heard that it is possible to do over 400kmh, although I have yet to see proof of it.
A 'STOCK' GT1's box will have these ratios; 1st: 2.6, 2nd: 1.75, 3rd: 1.35, 4th: 1.1, 5th: 0.9, 6th: 0.7, Reverse: -3.55 and Final: 3.44, however when you look at the "Gear Ratios" box, everything will be set at ' 0.00 '.
Any adjustments you make will alter the 'STOCK' gear by that much. For example, if you set 1st gear at -0.50, 1st will really be at 2.1:1, while if you set it at +0.50 1st will be at 3.1:1.
One thing to note is that selecting a NEGATIVE number will generally make a car go faster, at the cost of acceleration, especially in the 'higher' gears, while a POSITIVE number will accelerate faster, at the cost of top speed.
Try setting the FINAL gear on the RACE CLASS car you are working on at minus 0.50 and then plus 0.50 and see the difference in top speed. You will also notice that with FINAL set at minus 0.50, the car takes a little longer to get to it's top speed, even though that speed is faster, while with FINAL set at plus 0.50 it reaches it's top speed quicker, but that speed is lower.
Despite all three of these car being race cars, each one has a different number of gears.
The '56 550 A Spyder has 5 gears, despite being the oldest in the group, while the '78 935/78 Coupe "Moby Dick" has 4 gears and the youngest car, the '98 911 GT1 has 6 gears!
All three of these race cars have 2 settings which are generally the same, 1st gear and Final. Both of these should be set to minus 0.50.
                                                              SPYDER                                MOBY                                    GT1
                                                        1st             -0.50                    1st            -0.50                    1st            -0.50
                                                        2nd            -0.35                    2nd           -0.35                    2nd            -0.35
                                                        3rd             -0.25                    3rd            -0.20                    3rd            -0.20
                                                        4th             -0.15                    4th            -0.05                    4th            -0.15
                                                        5th              0.00                    5th             0.00                    5th            -0.10
                                                        6th              0.00                    6th             0.00                    6th             0.00
                                                        Reverse      -0.50                    Reverse     -0.50                    Reverse     -0.50
                                                        Final          -0.50                    Final          -0.50                    Final         -0.50
Finding the perfect setup
Setups for cars vary from person to person, what works for one person, might not work for you.
The key is to experiment, both on-line and off-line.
Steps to finding the perfect setup.
1. Choose a car to work on (duh!)
2. Race it a couple of times.
3. Change ONE setting. (ONLY ONE!!!)
4. Race it a few more times.
5. If the car handles better or goes faster,  leave it alone and go to step 3. If it doesn't, change it back and go to step 3.
Remember that different types of tracks will need a different setup. It is a good idea to keep a record of each different setup.
Railing: What is it?
Railing is the use of roadside objects to assist the car around a corner.
What cars can you 'RAIL' with?
The cars that most people 'RAIL' with are, the Spyder, 959 and GT2. There may be some other cars that can be 'RAILED' with succesfully.
Why 'RAIL' at all?
The three cars above all have one thing in common, except perhaps for the GT2. They don't turn very well at high speeds. By 'RAILING' racers can, if succesful, take over 10 secs off of their times on certain tracks.
Isn't 'RAILING' cheating?
This question is the cause of much debate (nice arguing). The majority of people don't consider it to be cheating.
'RAILING' : the basics
The easiest track to 'RAIL' on is Autobahn, either forwards or backwards. All of the other tracks have sections that can be railed, but are best left to the more experienced 'RAILERS'.
95% of the Autobahn track has guard rails on it that are perfect for railing, the majority of them being a whitish/silver color, with a number of them being yellow and black.
In order to 'RAIL' a barrier correctly, it is important to get your approach correct, otherwise you will lose a *LOT* of speed on contact with the rail.
Try to 'slide' the car onto the barrier you are going to rail, don't ram into it.
Once you are sliding along the 'RAIL', steer *away* from the rail, just a small amount. This will help you keep your speed up a bit.
Also, while 'RAILING' it is important to apply the rules for gear changing as described earlier.
When coming off of certain rails, you will need to 'straighten' the car up, otherwise your car may 'fish tail' and possibly lose control.
The most important thing to do when learning to 'RAIL' is to practice. The more you practice, the better you will get at it.
This site copyright to S.Winter. If you wish to link to this site, contact me at [XR]Mikk and I will place a link allowing people to return to your site.
The 'PU' and NFS:5 names and associated graphics are copyright to Electronic Arts.