The Largle and Goothers have had their day. Built on the extreme end of the cheap scale, I have always had the plans to build the units using better materials and perhaps try a few more tricks to squeeze that little bit more from the existing drivers.
The Mark 2's are the result. Built from 22mm Aquatite chip board.
The front face, side and top are radiused. Joins are almost imperceptible. Several layers of black undercoat where applied and rubbed back between each coat, Galmet black, hammerfinish was applied as a top coat (yup, love that hammer finish) using a roller brush. A fine piece of Jarrah timber (8mm thick), was cut, sanded smooth and finished in gloss varnish. John Ablett, a local timber craftsman, routed the baffle and the insert was recessed flush with the front face and glued in place.
Drivers are the 15 inch Response speaker (see the L&G page).
Two Jaycar mids were wired in series - a high sensitivity, 95dB,1w/1m meant parrallel wiring would have made them too bright. The Peerless tweeter was mounted behind the front face of the Jarrah insert, sandwiched between the two mids. I carved and sanded smooth a small flare to assist the high frequency tweeter.
The crossover is my own design, a 6dB/octave unit with c/o's of 1200 and 4800. 1mm wire was used in the air cored coils and high quality (read...expensive) polypropylene caps.
Dimensions (external): Ht 1070mm, wdth=477mm, dpth 388mm. Weight is around 50kgs.
Baffles and partitions where used in the upper part of the box and the mid/tweeter are mounted in their own enclosure. Pillow stuffing i.e. BAT is used in the upper part of the box, though I suspect the more fibrous quilt filler would have been a better choice. The cavities where initially packed quite tight, listening tests revealed the woofer to be 'poppy', so I have since removed big wads of the stuffing, density is now soft pillow, if you get my meaning and the bass much more pleasing.
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Note: The mid and tweeter are fitted to the board using fine thread nuts and bolts. In the case of the mids, the nuts are glued to the board. With the tweeter, the nuts are glued to its plastic surround. Therefore, removal of the drivers is a cinch.
Wanna see my horn?