On the American Atlantic Coast between Boston and New York, Newport, Rhode Island matches a rich history with a festive culture along 17th century New England cobblestone streets. Established on Aquidneck Island in 1638 by English colonists seeking freedom, Newport cultivates a unique spirit lit by hurricane lamps and a twinkling harbour.
Born in Newport, I met my first Australians in 1977 when my family hosted a young couple for the America’s Cup. Sun-kissed with great white smiles, they were blonde, healthy and bright and I, six at the time, was instantly infatuated with them. Our visitors left early each day and came back late, tirelessly heading into Newport’s sailing scene. On the last day, I remember how they smiled as they said, ‘We love your island.’
Renowned for the 1983 Australian America’s Cup win, Newport’s sheltered harbour along Narragansett Bay is still beloved among sailors. A playful nautical culture forms the fabric of this colonial pub and pier town and like our Australian couple, many visit between June and October, a month punctuated by autumn’s flaming foliage. During the northern summer, events like the International Tennis Hall of Fame tournaments and the Tall Ships Festival draw enthusiasts from across the globe.
Whatever is on, the window-shopping, art galleries and cafés along Brick Market, Thames Street and historic Bowen’s and Bannister’s Wharfs are imbued day and night with the atmosphere of the sparkling waterfront and creaking sailboats. A scoop of Ben and Jerry’s ice cream best fuels the uphill walk to Touro Street, lined with black shuttered colonial inns and red wooden doors.
On Touro, Newport’s colonial origins of acceptance and freedom beams. A Baptist Meeting House from 1730 stands beside Touro Synagogue, the first Jewish temple in America built in the 1670s. In the distance, the white spire of Trinity Church—with its plaster walls of horsehair, crushed clamshells and molasses—has been a popular site for visitors since 1726, including George Washington and Queen Elizabeth.
Touro Park claims Newport’s greatest unsolved archaeological mystery—Viking Tower, a stone and mortar cylinder over 7 metres high, ringed with arched doorways. Researchers have speculated that the tower was constructed before Columbus’ arrival, by anyone from Chinese to Celtic explorers. The most recent studies believe it was crafted by Norsemen between the 11th-14th centuries.
From Touro Street, Bellevue Avenue flickers back to the 1890s, when powerful New York industrial tycoons added their summer ‘cottages’ to the town’s architecture. Now these beautifully preserved, gilded age mansions host summer Newport Music Festival concerts and autumn Wine & Food Tasting. Mansion favourites include The Breakers and Marble House of the Vanderbilt family and Rosecliff, inspired by Grand Trianon of Versailles.
Want to see the mansions from the backdoor? Stroll Cliff Walk, where people have enjoyed fishing and seaside inspiration for centuries. A hundred years ago, attempts by the mansion owners to sever free public access were denied by the courts. The head-spinning coastal views and sneak-peeks at the curled features of the Chinese Tea House behind Marble House are surprising.
From Cliff Walk, a car or bike-ride on Ocean Drive curves along Newport’s scenic southern tip. Devised by Frederick Law Olmsted who designed Manhattan’s Central Park, it slides alongside a windswept coastline of slate and perched dream homes. Catch a glimpse of it in the films Evening and Me, Myself & Irene. Nearby, Bretton Point State Park has no admission fee and often, a kite-filled sky.
Past the kites sits Fort Adams State Park, a seaside military base which has evolved over 200 years. Featuring a yachting museum and offering sailing lessons, the fort, its rolling grounds, maze of tunnels and towering bastions are all open to the public. As kids, we’d run screaming through the tunnels and I lost my slingshot there. If your bring yours, don’t stick it in your back pocket.
August’s Newport Folk & Jazz Festivals attract fleets of music lovers, armed with rugs and sun cream, to Fort Adams’ lawns. Sailboats drop anchor and eavesdrop, dotting the blue undulations of Narragansett Bay. One of the oldest American music events, the Folk Festival is where folk granddaddy Pete Seeger threatened to chop Bob Dylan’s electric guitar leads to bits with an axe for breaking with sacred acoustic-only folk tradition. Bringing over 50 years of jazz to lovers, the Jazz Festival recently hosted cool cats BB King and Dave Brubeck.
After a day of skipping across cobblestones, peeping at mansions and getting a hairdo full of Atlantic salt, what’s for supper? Try the White Horse Tavern, the oldest American pub, reputedly haunted by colonials who can’t seem to leave the warmth of the crackling fireplaces. Open since 1673, you’ll find Vermont cheddars, cold water oysters and Maine lobsters under the gambrel roof.
For lunch, Flo’s Clam Shack across the street from Easton’s Beach is a landmark. They’ve got all three styles of clam chowder—or chowdah: red, tomato-base Manhattan; clear, brothy Rhode Island; and white, creamy, oh-I-can-die-now New England. And don’t forget the box of golden clam cakes. If spicy entices, try a stuffed quahog—pronounced kaw-hog, a Native American word meaning seriously big clam. Packed with stuffing and chorizo, they’re a Portuguese addition to classic Newport fare.
If you’ve got a taste for chowdah, the Great Chowder Cook-Off at Newport Yachting Center each June takes the blue ribbon. Some advice: wear an elastic waistband, walk up to Touro Park afterwards and schedule an afternoon nap!
Finally, where’s a good place to unroll a swag? Hotel Viking is an original Newport experience and close to everything. Away from downtown, it doesn’t get any better than Ocean Drive’s Inn on Castle Hill near Fort Adams. On the water and dripping with elegance, the hush in the morning gives way only to the waves crackling over stones and pheasants calling in the mist.
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Published in The Courier-Mail, 2 February 2008
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Last modified: December 2007.